Turn Signal Wiring
#21
04-07-2013, 11:25 AM
When I run into a bike that is being switched from a 3 wire light to a 2 wire LED light, I make a converter that will run the LED's at about half brightness for running lights then full brightness for turn/stop. and they take up no more room than a pair of wires next to each other.
http://www.chromeglow.com/catalog.asp?prodid=680271
#22
04-07-2013, 12:10 PM
Tourer
You can use a 2 wire like on a 3 wire system. What you have with the harley is running light brake light and turn signal. To make the 2 wire system work is easy. You need
1. A volt meter
2. Proper tools
3. Diodes (buy them from radio shack. You will need a minimum of 3per light possibly)
4. A soldering gun, electrical tape
5. Cold beer when your done.
Once you get the light apart and you are looking at the three wires use the volt meter to test your wires for function. There will be one that shows 12v constant with the ignition on. That is your running light. One that flashes 12v that is your turn. The last one will be your brake like if you have a dual filament bulb or your bike is set up that way. One wire will be ground or negative trip.
The next thing you want to do is use the diode. The diode will allow electricity to flow in one direction but not the other. There is a band on the diode and that represents the side electricity will not flow through.
You use one diode on the running and one on the turn signal and one on the brake. What this does is allow the electricity flow to the light so you can use the light for all functions and not have it only be a one function light.
If the diodes are put in wrong the light will not work right.
As you do the install test along the way before you solder everything and tape it up. Once you have one light completed do a final test on it and then solder it up but do not tape it so you can copy it for your next light.
I hope this helps.
I did the same thing to my street glide.
I included a picture of my work for my bike. I hope this helps you.
1. A volt meter
2. Proper tools
3. Diodes (buy them from radio shack. You will need a minimum of 3per light possibly)
4. A soldering gun, electrical tape
5. Cold beer when your done.
Once you get the light apart and you are looking at the three wires use the volt meter to test your wires for function. There will be one that shows 12v constant with the ignition on. That is your running light. One that flashes 12v that is your turn. The last one will be your brake like if you have a dual filament bulb or your bike is set up that way. One wire will be ground or negative trip.
The next thing you want to do is use the diode. The diode will allow electricity to flow in one direction but not the other. There is a band on the diode and that represents the side electricity will not flow through.
You use one diode on the running and one on the turn signal and one on the brake. What this does is allow the electricity flow to the light so you can use the light for all functions and not have it only be a one function light.
If the diodes are put in wrong the light will not work right.
As you do the install test along the way before you solder everything and tape it up. Once you have one light completed do a final test on it and then solder it up but do not tape it so you can copy it for your next light.
I hope this helps.
I did the same thing to my street glide.
I included a picture of my work for my bike. I hope this helps you.
#23
04-07-2013, 04:22 PM
what bruiser said up there ^ make ur own is cheap
i think 3 dollars was the last one i made --- of course heat shrink and protect when u do it
i made these a few timmes on scoots iv had .
its almost the same
this diagram made for another scoot so dont mind wire colors
heres a photo of what it should kinda look like
so you get the idea of how it should be
but yeah if ur not all that great with wiring just buy the diode kit
i think 3 dollars was the last one i made --- of course heat shrink and protect when u do it
i made these a few timmes on scoots iv had .
its almost the same
this diagram made for another scoot so dont mind wire colors
heres a photo of what it should kinda look like
so you get the idea of how it should be
but yeah if ur not all that great with wiring just buy the diode kit
#26
04-07-2013, 09:46 PM
no problemo,
just remember its not HD
hence the wire coloring
i have 2 other pix/ pdf files but it may confuse you all because its honda junk
and ya know somep people dont read they just look an do lolol
u can see a bit more detail on the other forum im in
he does a lil write up on this - but again its a honda
http://hondashadowgarage.proboards.c...ay&thread=2252
read up to step number 4 --- it shows photos and what parts u need --
or read it all up to you all !!!
just remember its not HD
hence the wire coloring
i have 2 other pix/ pdf files but it may confuse you all because its honda junk
and ya know somep people dont read they just look an do lolol
u can see a bit more detail on the other forum im in
he does a lil write up on this - but again its a honda
http://hondashadowgarage.proboards.c...ay&thread=2252
read up to step number 4 --- it shows photos and what parts u need --
or read it all up to you all !!!
Last edited by elfnyc; 04-07-2013 at 09:49 PM.
#27
04-08-2013, 03:39 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
what bruiser said up there ^ make ur own is cheap
i think 3 dollars was the last one i made --- of course heat shrink and protect when u do it
i made these a few timmes on scoots iv had .
its almost the same
this diagram made for another scoot so dont mind wire colors
heres a photo of what it should kinda look like
so you get the idea of how it should be
but yeah if ur not all that great with wiring just buy the diode kit
i think 3 dollars was the last one i made --- of course heat shrink and protect when u do it
i made these a few timmes on scoots iv had .
its almost the same
this diagram made for another scoot so dont mind wire colors
heres a photo of what it should kinda look like
so you get the idea of how it should be
but yeah if ur not all that great with wiring just buy the diode kit
Both wires will be feeding 12 volts to LED, the running all the time and the blinker when it is activated into the same wire, going to the LED.
Unless you wire in a resistor into the running before it gets to where the two wires meet then the LED will just burn all the time bright.
Also wiring in a resistor into a existing LED is very tricky. Usually the LEDs run between 1.7 volts and 2.2 volts and are wired in series and with a resistor to get the right voltage, finding a resistor the right size to add to that circuit to make it burn dimmer could be fun.
A beter way to run your wiring would be to run a relay with the LED run off the 87a termal that is normally hot and is open when current is supplied to the relay. you use the relay to interrupt the current and the normally on LED blinks when the curent is interrupted when the turn signal is on.
If you would like a schematic drawn up let me know, this is a very simple circuit.
Last edited by Harleycruiser; 04-08-2013 at 03:42 PM.
#28
04-08-2013, 04:53 PM
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Texas DFW
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I am not an electrical engineer or anything, but would like to add an explanation as to why this works.
Essentially the diode on the running light side is acting as a resistor, as it is always forward biased and allowing current to flow. When the turn signal is operated, the second diode cones into play and allows current to flow across in a parallel path reducing the resistance of the added diode effectively by 1/2 and increasing the current flow through the LED, and thus the brightness will follow when the turn signal 12v is on.
Wade
Essentially the diode on the running light side is acting as a resistor, as it is always forward biased and allowing current to flow. When the turn signal is operated, the second diode cones into play and allows current to flow across in a parallel path reducing the resistance of the added diode effectively by 1/2 and increasing the current flow through the LED, and thus the brightness will follow when the turn signal 12v is on.
Wade
#30
04-08-2013, 05:53 PM
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Texas DFW
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Yes 1 diode provides some resistance, not enough to turn out the lamp, and 2 in parallel offer a lower resistance when the turn signal flashes. The lower resistance will be almost a 0 ohm resistance. I had to draw it out for myself on an envelope so i could digest it cause i thought the same way "no way it will work" also had to bone up on my basic electronics to get it through my head. LOL
