So my buddies 2006 Sportster clutch remains slightly engaged when the clutch level is pulled in. So I found the instructions in the link below and adjusted it. That was 5000 miles ago and now it's doing it again. Only this time I can't get it adjusted right.

He consulted with an indie and the indie told him I am doing it backwards. He said I should turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise) until it lightly seats and then out (counterclockwise) a 1/4 turn followed by doing the cable adjustment.

So my question is, who the hell is right? The instructions in the link below say counterclockwise first, then clockwise and the indie says the opposite. WTF? Oh, BTW, the bike has some sort of Barnett clutch in it but by buddy has no idea what model.

Link to clutch adjustment:

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...19&postcount=4

Thanks!

 

I think you forgot the link, but it is incorrect and the mechanic told you correctly. I honestly don't know how you would do it any other way. Turning the nut under your derby cover counterclockwise to begin with wouldn't produce anything except a loose clutch cable.

After 5000 miles, I am not surprised that it needs to be adjusted again.

I like mine to come right in as I grab the lever, so I adjust the nut until it seems fairly taut, then go 1/4 counterclockwise. It is really a matter of preference, but you definitely do not want the clutch to be engaged all the time.

 

I added the link. I also found instructions in the 2004-2006 Clymers Manual which indicate that you turn it counterclockswise until light pressure is felt then clockwise a 1/4 turn or until the lock nut fits in place.

Damn I hate when there is conflicting information. I guess I am going to have to run up to the dealer and have a look at the actual service manual if no one on here knows for sure.

 

More info:

I've found several posts on other forums that seem to indicate that there is a difference in adjusting technique between new and older sporties but no hard line year where the adjustment process changed.

 

It's left hand threaded (lefty-tighty). You turn the screw, not a nut. Turn it until you feel *slight* resistence, and then a quarter turn opposite. Replace spring/locknut assembly and button up. Then you adjust cable freeplay.

The XLforum link is the proper way to do it. Just a note, do NOT use loctite on those derby cover bolts. If anything, use antiseize.

 

I got ya on the screw/nut thing as well as the antiseize. I figured I was doing it right since several sources on the Net confirmed the same procedure.

I am going to work on it again tomorrow. The indie also bitched that the bike wasn't cold when I did it. I am like WTF? It was a 95 degree day and I ran a large fan pointed straight at it for at least a 1/2 hour and could touch it without injury. Maybe he wants me to put it in a meat freezer or something.

Thanks again!

 

Try searching "clutch adjustment for year model" in YOUTUBE?
I was wondering where loctite can into conversation. Just looked at link, I agree, loctite there is not a good idea.
Scuba... Your replies on other posts have been "spot on". Thanks

 

Thank you everyone! I knew I was doing it right following the instruction in my 1st post. Don't know why I was thinking about a nut when it's a screw, LOL!

 

Just a warning, as you didn't say how many miles are on the bike.
The Sporty clutch pack contains a Spring Plate which has a habit of failing every 20,000 to 30,000 miles depending on your mix of city/highway miles. The first sign of impending failure, is the inability to maintain the clutch adjustment. If you loose the clutch adjustment again in less than 5,000 miles, stop riding the bike until it's repaired.

If caught early, replacing the Spring Plate isn't too costly. If you keep riding it, the Spring Plate will eventually "grenade" and you'll be replacing the entire clutch basket. That repair, done at the dealer, will likely run around $900.00.

 

The clutch adjustment became different after '03.