hi folks,

just did a tank lift, wire tuck, and coil/ignition relocation.

now the bike seems to "hesitate" when starting up and there engine lamp.

Furthermore, the engine lamp comes on twice. 1st time is normal upon turning the key to ignition and turning the switch to "run", however, it comes on a second time and stays on for about 8 seconds.

any advice on where i went wrong and how to remedy? thx in advance.

k.

 

Check and clear your codes. If ti does not stay on continually it means you have a stored code. If will stop coming on after 50 restarts.

 

Well if the problem didn't exist before you did the work , you did something wrong. It could be a loose connection or a wire issue. retrace your steps through the job and double check everything.

 

check your codes

NOTE
Make sure the run/stop handlebar switch is
in the run position.
1. Push and hold in the odometer reset button on the back
of the speedometer.
2. Turn the ignition key on, then release the reset button.
The following should occur:
a. The speedometer backlighting comes on.
b. The speedometer needle rotates to full deflection
position

4. Press and release the odometer reset button. The letters
PSSPt appear in the odometer window (Figure 30). The
letter P will flash indicating that information concerning
the ICM is obtainable. The letters PSSPt identify the following
components:
a. The letter P identifies the ICM.
b. The letter S identifies the TSM/TSSM.
c. The letters SP identify the speedometer.
d. The letter t identifies the tachometer.
5. To cycle through the PSSPt letter identifiers, push and
quickly release the odometer reset button. The selected
component letter identifier will flash.
6. To obtain a DTC, select a component (identifier letter(
s) flashes) then push and hold in the odometer reset
button for at least 5 seconds. Release the button. The code
will appear in the odometer window (Figure 31), or none.
Record the DTC.

Most elec problems are loose connections.

After you retreve the codes, clear them, turn the bike off. Wait 5 mins and start the bike and let it run for 5 mins. then check your codes again.

 

Good info rt there Odhar.

 

Also...make sure your coil/plug wires are on tight (use dielectric grease) and not crossed...

Did you cut/solder any of the wires during this project?

 

There is nothing in the tank being lifted or the coil and key being in a different location that would cause this. That means it is one of the wires...bad connection or pinched.

Since you did not have to cut or solder anything, I would go thru and unplug and replug every connector (use dielectric grease if you did not already) and while doing that, look for any wires that are pinched, or may have been damaged with actual wire showing.

 

thx everyone for the tip. not sure what happenned but my battery was drained and wasn't charging. can't figure out what might have caused this. took it into the shop and they charged it up and its running now. but my engine light still comes on (after the initial start up) so i think i have to take it back and ask them to check the codes and see whats up.

k.

p.s. thx for the directions on the codes. since my bike is still under warranty, i figure i'll take advantage of this to make sure the bike is OK.

 

Good to hear you got it running...warranties are nice.

If it goes dead again, then whatever is draining the battery is probably causing the check engine light...probably a raw wire some where.

 

Did you find out what was causing it, i have the same problem now, only my battery and engine light came on this morning on the way to work. I did my coil relocation 2 days ago.