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Starter solenoid rebuild without removing starter question

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  #11  
Old 04-10-2014, 11:35 PM
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yup its a chrome housing lol i guess that means its aftermarket
 
  #12  
Old 04-11-2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ranchodeluxe
That washer is far from pristine. I would flip it over, or replace it. The solenoid contacts, too. Those parts cost little.
I call bs on that anyone who actually fixes these knows I am right on with my diagnosis. Just compare the new parts to whats there OP see what you think.

Look at my pic that's wear that actually caused a starting issue.. But then the world is full of parts replacers that wouldn't know wear from sicem oops see you made my point already. lol
 
  #13  
Old 04-13-2014, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Car Doc
I call bs on that anyone who actually fixes these knows I am right on with my diagnosis. Just compare the new parts to whats there OP see what you think.

Look at my pic that's wear that actually caused a starting issue.. But then the world is full of parts replacers that wouldn't know wear from sicem oops see you made my point already. lol
So you would not replace the parts, or even recommend turning the washer over while you had it apart? Remind me to not hire the Car Doc. That starter washer is cratered. Those chrome AM starters aren't worth fixing. But you would know that if you were a Harley starter expert.
 
  #14  
Old 04-14-2014, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ranchodeluxe
So you would not replace the parts, or even recommend turning the washer over while you had it apart? Remind me to not hire the Car Doc. That starter washer is cratered. Those chrome AM starters aren't worth fixing. But you would know that if you were a Harley starter expert.
No I wouldn't because there is nothing wrong with them like I said earlier his problem is elsewhere read my post.

I am not a Harley starter expert but I am a Nipondenso starter expert fyi I fix them day in day out. And that washer wont flip for another thing I call bs on. Id love to see a pictorial description of that process haha.

Fact I if you are so sure I am wrong why haven't you posted pics to back your statements up? Post a pic of a bad one and a good one why don't you lets see what is wrong with his washer?

Reason being is a new one will be exactly the same thickness as his is I guarantee it and you know it too.

I have demonstrated my point on the contacts being ok with a pic of an actual bad one.

I am not a parts replacer anyone can do that it takes no skill. Now to actually prove a part is bad thats what you hope you are hiring when you hire a mechanic. my .002

edit: He has a better than 50% chance the starter will work now he has had it apart and messed with all the connections there and at the battery and frame. The odds the starter itself is bad increase exponentially one way or another as to who built it whether it is low quality aftermarket or OE. Bad OE is very rare that is a nearly bullet pruf starter overall.
 

Last edited by Car Doc; 04-14-2014 at 01:01 PM.
  #15  
Old 04-14-2014, 02:15 PM
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children, children!!

alright so i replaced the plunger (not the contacts inside the solenoid) and the starter still wont turn over. When i hit the starter button, with my hand on the solenoid i can feel it clicking and engaging, makes noises like the starter wants to turn but then just doesnt. Does this mean my starter is bad? Is there any way to confirm before i order a new starter?
 
  #16  
Old 04-15-2014, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by vasol
children, children!!

alright so i replaced the plunger (not the contacts inside the solenoid) and the starter still wont turn over. When i hit the starter button, with my hand on the solenoid i can feel it clicking and engaging, makes noises like the starter wants to turn but then just doesnt. Does this mean my starter is bad? Is there any way to confirm before i order a new starter?

you can test the starter motor by jumping across the 2 big connections on the solenoid with a HEAVY wire (or just use a pair of channel locks like I do), the starter should spin immediately (no starter push button needed)...if it does not turn the connection between the solenoid and starter could be loose or broken... this is more easily done on the bench in a vise....

what I would do is to check and see if the solenoid is actually engaging, I know you hear a click when you hit the button but that does not mean the solenoid is pulling all the way in and the contacts are making, a electric meter attached to the starter side of the solenoid and ground will confirm the solenoid is pulling in all the way when you hit the button (it is the big connection opposite the big connection that the battery connects to)...
 
  #17  
Old 04-15-2014, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by vasol
children, children!!

alright so i replaced the plunger (not the contacts inside the solenoid) and the starter still wont turn over. When i hit the starter button, with my hand on the solenoid i can feel it clicking and engaging, makes noises like the starter wants to turn but then just doesnt. Does this mean my starter is bad? Is there any way to confirm before i order a new starter?
Sorry about that man but I call bs when I see it. Its better to be honest than to lie about things you know nothing about.

Back to sporty starter you could jump the 2 big terminals and the starter motor should run like the guy before me said. Me and him are saying the same things btw.

Or if you had a test light you could simply touch the connection opposite the battery cable (goes to motor) and hit the starter button-if the lite lites up the solenoid is doing its job and yes pull the starter at that point.

Your sure the engine is not locked up right?! And you can back me up here by clearing the air with your feelings on the two plungers they were exactly the same thickness weren't they! Other than a few perfectly normal electric marks around the edges.
 

Last edited by Car Doc; 04-15-2014 at 03:40 PM.
  #18  
Old 04-15-2014, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Car Doc
No I wouldn't because there is nothing wrong with them like I said earlier his problem is elsewhere read my post.

I am not a Harley starter expert but I am a Nipondenso starter expert fyi I fix them day in day out. And that washer wont flip for another thing I call bs on. Id love to see a pictorial description of that process haha.

Fact I if you are so sure I am wrong why haven't you posted pics to back your statements up? Post a pic of a bad one and a good one why don't you lets see what is wrong with his washer?

Reason being is a new one will be exactly the same thickness as his is I guarantee it and you know it too.

I have demonstrated my point on the contacts being ok with a pic of an actual bad one.

I am not a parts replacer anyone can do that it takes no skill. Now to actually prove a part is bad thats what you hope you are hiring when you hire a mechanic. my .002

edit: He has a better than 50% chance the starter will work now he has had it apart and messed with all the connections there and at the battery and frame. The odds the starter itself is bad increase exponentially one way or another as to who built it whether it is low quality aftermarket or OE. Bad OE is very rare that is a nearly bullet pruf starter overall.
Unfortunately, Mr. expert, that is not an oe starter, but a cheap, chrome aftermarket ripoff. But then you'd know that if you were a Harley starter expert.
 
  #19  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:13 PM
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Are you absolutely certain that your issue is the starter and not the battery...the battery being weak would cause the exact same thing to happen...Oh, and I agree with cardoc. the contacts, including the center ring look fine to me, you might sand the ring a little if it makes you feel better, but I am willing to bet that they are not the issue.....as far as the battery, I would throw a pair of jumper cables on the battery to your car (car not running) and try and start the bike, make sure you put the neg. cable to the frame of the bike (that will eliminate a bad ground for the motorcycle battery)....if the bike starts, I would check the negative ground wire to the frame and have the battery load tested at the store...
 
  #20  
Old 04-16-2014, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ranchodeluxe
. What was your diagnostic procedure to determine this was the issue? Really need to check V drop on the batt cable, and the green trigger wire,and ohms test ground cable on a bike this old. Assuming you have a known good battery?

Once again?
 


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