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The Best Oil for our Harleys is...

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  #21  
Old 05-11-2014, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dusty Bones
That is the story. He lived across the street from me. He is what I call a real biker. He owns Ducattis, Yamahas, and even wears a Norton shirt while riding his Fat boy.

I have riden so many thousands of miles with him right next to me. It may be hard for some to understand but it is what I posted. It ran perfect on break in oil, he broke it in per book. He changed the oil and it was obvious it failed and that was the brand. If it would have been another brand that failed I would have posted the same thing with X brand in place of it. Next 113" was break in per book, change oil to Mobil 1 syn and he is still running it to this day.

What more could there be to the story?
I believe you that the engine failed, but not that any specific oil would have caused it. bad luck to be the oil in there when it happened. Or rather the oil was prevented from lubricating.

what parts were replaced due to the failure?
 
  #22  
Old 05-11-2014, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by lh4x4
API SJ rated oil of any brand whether syn or mineral of 20/50 weight.

No need to spend more money for any oil that will only perform to the SJ rating.

A fool and his money are soon parted. A $3.98 20/50 SJ rated Valvoline oil at Walmart after a 100,000+ miles of use show no more wear or deterioration than the highest dollar syn.

A study of 74 new cabs put into service in New York City using Mobile I did not show one penny of maintenance savings on the fleet service data after seven years of use. That says it all. Of course everyone knows that higher priced oils will work better in HD motors because they paid more for it.

By the way any oil that has the energy savings logo on it has Molybdenum in it. I know an engineer that buys moly in powder form and adds a certain amount per quart to his Rune. It has a wet clutch and he says it has never slipped. He has many high speed traffic tickets to show it doesn't slip. He's from Ontario and the tickets in the US don't go on his Canadian license. His goal is to have the engine last beyond 300,000 miles which is about double what the 6 cylinder Honda engine is capable of.

I just read this yesterday so it is fresh in my head. They were not new, but rather rebuilt. They also tested M1 extended mileage and wanted to test them at 12,000 OCI, however two of the three being tested had to drop out of the test due to engine failure.

It is an interesting read, but not all oils worked the same, and the M1 extended mileage dont look like it lived up to advertising claims.
 
  #23  
Old 05-11-2014, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Canuck
I believe you that the engine failed, but not that any specific oil would have caused it. bad luck to be the oil in there when it happened. Or rather the oil was prevented from lubricating.

what parts were replaced due to the failure?
People in cyber land amuse me sometimes. I always wonder what it is exactly people have done, seen and know. Everyone is always blowing up "well show me just one example of any oil that caused a lubrication failure". Even if I took pictures of the damage the same people would claim well thats BS, that damage was caused by GTX, redline dont do that.

See what Im getting at? I know two other guys who ran redline. One had heat problems and reading, of course on the web, a syn oil will run cooler. Well he dumped redline in. Now his border line steady temps went up to 250, then 270, my guess the next step was failure but he wisely dumped it after two rather short rides. Another guy just kept running it because he spent so dang much on it, he had constant 270 temps too. This was in the summer in NC but even regular dino oils of any brand were not running that hot in the same motors.

I know I know. Well thats not the whole story, there is something else, there is more to it. If this is the case then this more information will have to come from you. All I am saying is I will not touch the stuff, my mower will not even see it. i am certain a perfectly running mower with over 1500 hours on it will be sent to its death in less than one mowing if I were to. I like that mower too much to do that to it, and to even think of dumping it in my bike? Hah, right.
 
  #24  
Old 05-11-2014, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dusty Bones
People in cyber land amuse me sometimes. I always wonder what it is exactly people have done, seen and know. Everyone is always blowing up "well show me just one example of any oil that caused a lubrication failure". Even if I took pictures of the damage the same people would claim well thats BS, that damage was caused by GTX, redline dont do that.

See what Im getting at? I know two other guys who ran redline. One had heat problems and reading, of course on the web, a syn oil will run cooler. Well he dumped redline in. Now his border line steady temps went up to 250, then 270, my guess the next step was failure but he wisely dumped it after two rather short rides. Another guy just kept running it because he spent so dang much on it, he had constant 270 temps too. This was in the summer in NC but even regular dino oils of any brand were not running that hot in the same motors.

I know I know. Well thats not the whole story, there is something else, there is more to it. If this is the case then this more information will have to come from you. All I am saying is I will not touch the stuff, my mower will not even see it. i am certain a perfectly running mower with over 1500 hours on it will be sent to its death in less than one mowing if I were to. I like that mower too much to do that to it, and to even think of dumping it in my bike? Hah, right.
Now that you have explained it so we can understand, what oil has your neighbor been using so we can all switch over before we blow our engines after 300 miles. what oil do you use?
cyber land wants to know, don't leave us hanging, help us see the light.
 
  #25  
Old 05-11-2014, 06:16 PM
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Dusty is in his own cyber land. Theres only one truth.......his............and if your view isint his...........your an idiot.
 
  #26  
Old 05-11-2014, 06:35 PM
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I spent a few hours a couple of years ago going over the tested specs on a variety of all synthetics (no use looking at non-synthetics -- they never measure up). I have a HD VRSC which is water cooled. I found that the two top oils were Mobile 1 V-Twin and Amsoil Motorcycle oils. Comparing those specs side by side the only advantage Amsoil had over Mobile was higher temperature shear strength. I am quite sure that oil is the best for air-cooled engines because they do run at higher temperatures. I settled for the Moble 1 V-Twin because of its easy local availability and price. I don't need the the additional high temp shear strength that Amsoil provides in a water cooled engine. I didn't include oils that were not designed for use in engines that share crankcase with transmission.... and that's all I have to say about that.
 
  #27  
Old 05-11-2014, 07:01 PM
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I have worked in the transportation industry in AK since 1980. When it comes to cranking and starting cold engines running synthetic vs: dino oil there is a huge difference. Cold engines running dino sound like ****.. Faster lubrication on cold start-ups is the #1 reason I run synthetic.
 
  #28  
Old 05-11-2014, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Canuck
Now that you have explained it so we can understand, what oil has your neighbor been using so we can all switch over before we blow our engines after 300 miles. what oil do you use?
cyber land wants to know, don't leave us hanging, help us see the light.
Aaaaand this is it right here. I seen it fail. Just because it is $18.99 for a quart means nothing except people can brag about spending too much. Right? You sound like one of them no oil fails so run $3.99 a quart GTX. Oil dont fail, not even that dollar store stuff.

Originally Posted by Rog48
Dusty is in his own cyber land. Theres only one truth.......his............and if your view isint his...........your an idiot.
Yer a silly *****. I see you are adding a bunch of ............. To your one liners for fluff these days. Good job. Some day you might even get up to a whole two. Keep at it dooger! You can do it!!!
 
  #29  
Old 05-11-2014, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ynots
I have worked in the transportation industry in AK since 1980. When it comes to cranking and starting cold engines running synthetic vs: dino oil there is a huge difference. Cold engines running dino sound like ****.. Faster lubrication on cold start-ups is the #1 reason I run synthetic.
But there is a difference between synth to synth when it comes to cold starts.

mobil 1 v twin has no moly, mobil automotive does, Redline 20w-50 does.

that was the point.
 
  #30  
Old 05-11-2014, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dusty Bones
Aaaaand this is it right here. I seen it fail. Just because it is $18.99 for a quart means nothing except people can brag about spending too much. Right? You sound like one of them no oil fails so run $3.99 a quart GTX. Oil dont fail, not even that dollar store stuff.
let us recap. The OP asks for opinions as he wants to use Redline. Then you come on with a story that your neighbor blew his new S&S 113 after only 300 miles using Redline. You blame that Redline and would not put it into your lawnmower.

You are asked what oil you & your neighbor are using that will not blow our engines, still waiting for your recommendation.

I sound like "one of them" who does not accept everything I read and will ask for more details to back it up before I do.
 


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