Dead Sportster
#12
30 AMP breaker changed. Starter Relay replaced. New terminal end on ground wire at battery. Still no go!! Ignition module clicks when key is on every 3-4 seconds with lights dimming w every click. I can hear the starter relay click each time this happens when I also have the start switch depressed. A new Ignition Module is $250.00 plus. Sure dont want to jump to that if its trial and error.
#13
When the key is turned on, I get an intermittent clicking sound coming from the ignition module. It clicks for a split second and the lights dim briefly during the "click".
A click every few seconds until I turn off the key.
Replaced 30 amp main breaker, new starter relay and new battery terminal ends. Still no go. Ignition Module is around $260.00, so I dont want to just try one to see if that fixes it. Any other ideas???
A click every few seconds until I turn off the key.
Replaced 30 amp main breaker, new starter relay and new battery terminal ends. Still no go. Ignition Module is around $260.00, so I dont want to just try one to see if that fixes it. Any other ideas???
#14
A quick look at the wiring diagram shows that the first step should be to verify power to and from the engine kill switch. From that switch power goes two ways, one to the start switch and the other to the coil. Check power using a known good ground, then test the starter relay and ICM grounds to ensure they have good connections. At the very least even with a bad ICM it should still turn over. Let us know what you find.
#15
A quick look at the wiring diagram shows that the first step should be to verify power to and from the engine kill switch. From that switch power goes two ways, one to the start switch and the other to the coil. Check power using a known good ground, then test the starter relay and ICM grounds to ensure they have good connections. At the very least even with a bad ICM it should still turn over. Let us know what you find.
#16
Honestly, not a clue. I am wondering if its as simple as a bad ground. If you check what I said it should point you in the right direction. Like I said regardless of the ICM it should still roll over.
#17
Well, found the "problem" I isolated it by unplugging whatever I could first. Taillamps etc.. No go. Checked the kill switch wiring, all good there. Then I removed the headlight as I knew there was alot of wiring inside the light housing. Bigger than crap.. there it was. No wonder my turn signals wouldnt work... Two of the contacts on the flasher unit were touching each other. Bingo ..... seperated and insulated the contacts. Bike runs like a champ! And.... wifey is happy (for the moment anyway). Thanks for the help ya'll. Happy Wife = Happy Life
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willing_to_learn
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
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09-07-2013 04:27 PM