'06 1200 - Problem : prosthetic leg points outward in riding position. OEM forward control brake pedal location is inward in relation to foot peg. It never got used, because it was impossible to reach. Rear brakes are a good to thing to be able to use.
Solution (Part 1): Installed Mid Controls on right side. The MC brake pedal is located behind forward control foot peg and inward. The pedal can be easily activated by raising leg, pulling it back a little, and depressing pedal with heel. Using OEM MC brake rod left brake pedal a little low in relation to foot peg. Vibration would cause leg to unknowingly move around on foot peg, (even before this). Now it would slide over new brake pedal and unknowingly activate rear brake.
Solution (Part 2): Removed OEM Mid Control Brake Rod. Shortened OEM Forward control brake rod to a length 1" longer than OEM Mid Control Brake rod. This was done by cutting FC rod, threading both ends, and joining these ends with a threaded rod coupling nut. Once installed, it raised new brake pedal. Now back of shoe rests against forward edge of pedal while in riding position, with contact an inch above heel (in the tendon area). Brake pedal also helps a lot in keeping foot on foot peg better.



After this was completed and tested, I felt it was a righteous time to perform a rear brake fluid flush. This led me to problem #2. The juice in my rear brake reservoir was amber in color. I'm guessing the previous owner used DOT 5.1 instead of DOT 5. I commenced to bleeding and flushing. I spent 3 hours pedal pumping and bleeder twisting. I was only getting tiny spurts to come out after 50 pumps per interval bleeder twist. I used up nearly a whole bottle of fluid; and it doesn't seem to be getting any better, even with the fluid being mostly purple now. I think that would a good indicator that damage has already occurred. Just like it said would happen in the manual when improper fluids are used. Can anybody concur this to be true from going through a similar experience? My first guess is that every component in the rear brake system that holds, conducts, or has contact with, this wrong fluid is spent and should be replaced. Maybe the metal parts can be cleaned and re-used? How close is my guess to reality? I got zero previous baseline reference experience to judge rear brake performance.

On the bright side, I'm pretty used to riding without rear brakes anyways, so its not like this is going to stop me from riding.

Steering me in the right direction with a plan on where to start corrective measures would be of great help. Thanks

 

Living near Fort Bragg, I see a number of soldiers and ex-soldiers with prosthetic legs who still ride their bikes. One of the modifications that some of the local bike shops do is to install a proportioning valve to the brake system that integrates both the front and back brakes and is activated by the front brake lever. The braking bias is adjustable so you can dial in more or less back brake for your preference.

I know it doesn't really answer your question, but is just food for thought. Best of luck in your project.

 

check the rubber insert in the master cylinder cap for the rear brake maybe it got sucked in or moved into the resevoir, and is keeping the brake from building pressure... just take the cap off and check the rubber..

another idea if the gasket is ok ----- loosen the bolts holding the caliber, just loosen do not remove
then re bleed the brakes see if this helps..
check the easy stuff first
also check the bleeder valve make sure its not leaking/ bubbling when the lever is depressed

and you can always get the setup that the stunt bikes have
a second lever up near the clutch lever to acivate the rear
just another spin on it kinda like as rick said above

just a few thoughts u could try before a rebuild of the brake

 

Also with the cover off pump the brakes slowly
do you see bubbles coming out of the bottom cylinder?

 

the purple stuff turns tan/amber when it gets old...so you should be ok there...

 

Thanks guys this is great stuff. I'll start with the two lever thing: that's too confusing and there's a bit of arthritis at times. One lever with per hand is my limit. I could see it working for others, and they would still have the front, or back, or both option. The proportioning thing is great in that no changes need to made to riding habits, or hand functions. It would work for me. But its way out my budget range. Both are good solutions, that work in different cases.

I have had this mid-control brake pedal working enough to say it suits me perfectly. I still have front, or back, or both option. I absolutely love using pedal at stop signs on hills. It frees up my right hand to isolate throttle/clutch co-ordination for smoother take-off. I'm loving it. If anyone needs more pics or explaining, I gots and am glad to share. It too is another option of function. Used mids came to me for $45, when budget is a concern, and prevent any option happening. Anyways I sincerely appreciate the input; and when someone plugs adaptive into search, this thread will give them the options all in one place. Nice !

Now the bleeding (or more accurately put- "dribble") issue. It took all night, but I ran a whole bottle through the system. Then I attached a bungie to the pedal, ran it under bike and hooked it to mirror, depressed pedal, went to bed. It worked, just like it does with the hand brake. So its working, but I only wonder for how long. So I'm going to do the things you told me elf, as soon as I get off here. This is what I was looking for.

I started with speed bleeder and swithced over to OEM after 4 hours, so we can eliminate that cause.

While i was doing the bleeding, I had the reservoir cover off the whole time. I put it on for five cycles; but it didn't make any difference in discharge amounts. I never saw one bubble. So I guess that is a good thing, I hope. Maybe another source to eliminate.

I did notice my new purple stuff would always find its way to the bottom, determined by wasting a new white microfiber towel to sop up yellow stuff sitting on top.

So purple turns to amber. That's so relieving, because it points away from total breakdown due to previous owner error. I read of ton of DOT3 vs 4 vs 5 vs 5.1. from the net. Nobody ever said a word about the color change. We got the smartest guys in this forum. And hopefully we can eliminate another possible cause. And this would be a big eliination

I thank you all, this is all great stuff that you can only find here, and I would be lost without you. I'm out there to try remedies

I did some research on DOT 3 vs 4 vs 5.1 vs 5. In a nut shell: 5 is silicone based. Not to be confused, or mixed with 5.1, which is a silicone ester I believe. Those others are glycerin based, like antifreeze. DOT5 has the highest boiling point of 500 degrees of them all. It can not be inhibited by water, like 3 and 4. But when water does get into system ( through air usually) it makes globules that love to stay in one place and corrode that specific area or component. Don't mix 5 with the others, and if you do, don't ever switch back and make it worse. Military uses DOT5 everywhere, because it can work at 50 below and 150 in the desert. My favorite advantage of DOT5: it doesn't mess up paint, like 3 or 4 do. That means the 20 times I washed my hands was all for not. I had a nightmare of waking up and seeing patches of bubbled up paint all over my tank. So thank you MOCO, for choosing 5. My own disadvantage finding: its hard to get off of garage floor, and makes it slippery.

I feel a lot better about this problem, to the wrenches!!

 

lol you could use a turkey bastor next time from the wifes kitchen collection dont let her know hahahaha
or purchase a cheapy plastic syringe from auto store for the same purpose

and yeah heres some links u can check out

http://www.disabledmotorcyclerider.com/klever.html


http://www.mtb-amputee.com/motorcycleamputee.htm


http://www.klever2.com/

kliktronic twin brake levers google that




one more site u can try an look up

http://www.disabledmotorcyclerider.com/

 

hell if you want you can even use a meter to test the brake fluid


Use your Multimeter to test the fluid
negative meter lead to the negative battery post or ground anywhere
positive meter lead into the brake fluid
avoiding contact with the reservoir
Any reading over 0.30 volts is too much, and the fluid should be flushed
means there is moisture in the fluid and its maken a reaction to give off this reading
but if u do all of this its easy enough to just swap the fluid anyways lolol
but yeah useless info stored in my head

 

I had a turkey baster from the dollar store and the rubber thingy leaked and made a mess. Oh look I am back here with a couple hours ! WooHoo Instead of 12. I took the caliper off, completely; because I had to; after I pulled the boot out of the hole. Gave it few love taps with finish nail hammer. But it all back together after cleaning and greasing up the two pins. then instead of 50 pumps to get semi-stiff pedal, it only took 25 pumps to get it firm. 10 cycles later 20 pumps. 30 cycles later 15. 40 more cycles got me to 12 pumps. I almost ran another whole bottle through. Saved a little just in case, there's a surprise tomorrow. Bungied up the pedal again, and will check in morning. That was awesome advice elfnyc, did the trick. This winter I'll break it down. Its a safe bet that I will be changing the brake fluid every season along with oil and trans from now on. Thanks again to all.... and I'll check out the links tomorrow BB16 is on. We be rolling right.... sweet !

 

I'll check the meter thing 1st thing am too. Still got old stuff in bucket. That's wild man !