I posted my problem in a different part of the forums but didn't get any answers...

It was riding fine and all of a sudden it wouldn't start one day. After some basic testing, I figured out that there wasn't any sparks coming from the plugs. I believe I may have a bad ignition module. I want to know exactly what I can do to make absolutely sure this is it. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

Specs:
2002 sportster XLH1200

 

Only test for a failed ICM is to replace it with a known working one.

 

there is no test for the icm, but there are resistance tests for the coil, which you should do also I would check the wire to the coil from the controller to make sure it is not broken or loose...I would also check the bell behind the controller to make sure it is tight and correctly seated...it is unusual for the controller to just die, usually they will cause rough running when hot etc. for awhile before they die...I would also check to make sure you have power to the controller from the ignition source...also I think the tip over switch will kill the spark (it may also kill the starter, I am not sure and if it does it is not the issue)....if you decide to replace the module JPCycles sells a aftermarket model that works well and is pretty easy to install and adjust....


http://www.jpcycles.com/product/730-577

 

I have done the resistance tests with a multimeter (primary and secondary tests). It was within the correct specifications. Also, just to be 100% sure, I switched out the coil with another one that I had that I knew was a good one. Still no spark.

I checked the connector from the ICM (the one that is underneath the bike and is held to the frame of the bike with a little tab). It seemed to be connected good; not loose or anything.

The bike didn't run funny or anything before it stopped working. It was so random, I went out to start it one morning and it just wouldn't start.

I will definitely look into the bank angle sensor next. Hopefully that won't be nearly as expensive if that's the problem...

 

If the coil ohms out in spec, and a replacement doesn't work either, then the coil probably isn't getting any input voltage. You should have about 12V into the coil. Measure and verify.

If no input voltage, start working back through the wiring to find out why.
The ignition switch is a likely problem. I don't have a schematic to look at, but any fuses, relays or circuit breakers in the path to the ignition are also likely suspects, as is the kill switch.

 

I will definitely check that out. I did check all of the fuses as well as the 30 amp circuit breaker. They were all good. Just to clarify a bit, the bike will turn on. The speedometer and everything works. The bike cranks fine, just no spark at the plug when doing so...



I really appreciate all the input everyone has offered so far! Hopefully I can get this thing figured out soon. I'm going to check everything out this Sunday.

 

I would pull out the spark controller from under the cover (you may have to drill out the rivets and make sure you mark exactly where it was installed in the screw slots.... and have a look underneath it to make sure that the piece that tell it when to produce the spark is correctly installed (tight, with the keyway in the correct spot) ...if is not installed correctly you will get NO spark, not just a spark at the wrong time.....

 

Ok, I finally got around to being able to look into this some. I did some testing with a multimeter.

I turned the key all the way on. With the digital multimeter set on 12V DC, one side (pink) tested between .03-.07 volts but only when cranking the motor. Testing that side without cranking yielded zero volts. The other side (white/black) tested around 10.5 volts without cranking.

 

If I remember correctly...you should have around 12 volts on one side of the coil (10v is close enough) when the key is on and on the other side you should have the same voltage (in this case 10v) when you are turning over the engine (the 10v will turn off/on/off/on, but to the meter will look at it like its on all the time)...so your issue should be the controller or the timing bell behind it....You should prolly need to know that if the spark timing is way off, such as when the timing bell is not set correctly on the shaft or the controller has come loose and turned a great deal (more than about 1/8 of its diameter or so), the controller gets 'confused' and won't spark right or not at all....I say drill out the rivets, take off the out and inner cover and take a look at the controller...if I remember correctly there is a LED on it that will flash when you turn the motor over (at the time the spark is suppose to be on)...

 

Thank you. I will test this as soon as I can.

I have a question, will I have to buy a special tool to put a new rivet in after I drill the old one out and complete the repair or will any basic rivet tool work? I've never really dealt with rivets before.