Heat ,extreme cold and vibration are the most harmful elements to a battery.

 

Spot on...these things vibrate and things loosen. If you can move the ground on the regulator with slight finger pressure it will sometimes create the dreaded 'check engine and battery light' combination. Great advice, StereoGuy

 

I checked the stator. The resistance from plug to ground is infinite from both sides of the plug, and both sides of the plug together produce 0 ohms. Once battery is sufficiently charged that it can start the bike, I'll do a voltage output reading for the stator. While I'm out there, I'll check the ground wire on the regulator as well.

I got the battery charged, installed and the bike started. The output from the stator was 30-32 V at idle and up to 80 V at ~3K rpms. (It's my guess about the rpms. I could be off by a few hundred rpms either way. It sounded like 3K, but how could I tell? I'm used to hearing it in the saddle with my 3/4 helmet, not with my uncovered ears by the front header pipe. You must either be a simian or far more talented that I am in order to hold the multimeter, hold the probes in the stator plug, twist the throttle and read both the tach and the multimeter simultaneously.)

So, I guess that means the stator is in good shape. Next is to verify the regulator/rectifier. I suppose the real test of the regulator at this point is the output at the battery, which we already know is well below 14 V most of the time whether under load or at an idle. I'm going to double check the connections, though, just to be sure.

BTW, fresh from the charger, the battery shows 13.1 V on the multimeter.

 

Thanks, they are also prone to rust and corrosion at the connection, it would be wise to clean the connection at the point of contact making sure it is a good ground.

 

Since the battery and stator checked out okay, I replaced the voltage regulator with an HD replacement. Now, the voltage at the battery to ground with the engine running is a steady 14.1 V.

I took it for a short 35 mile test drive last night. Neither the engine light nor the battery light came on.

I'm guessing, then, that it's time to close the books on this one.

Just out of curiosity, is anyone running a 3rd party Voltage Regulator? If so, which one, and how do you like it?

And to everyone who chimed in, thanks for the assistance. I do greatly appreciate it.

 

Cycle Electric stators and regulators are far better than the OEM. It would have to be an emergency situation before I'd put a Harley stator or regulator in my bike again.

 

I installed a Cycle Electric Regulator in my Daughters 2001 xl883 when it needed one.
I did a bunch of research and most said it was the highest quality one to use.
My local independent repair guy said it's all he will use.
It did work well and still does 4 years later.
Just what I've had experience with.
Mick

 

Here it is less than 2 years later, and dancing the same tango again.

I replaced the battery a couple if weeks back. The old one wouldn't charge past 11.7 V. I figured it was time to replace. I put in a new Yuasa, which was a mistake. The poles don't fit the cables properly, although I was able to make a good connection. I took the bike out for a good run a couple of times with no problems.

Wednesday, I started to take the bike to work. I got maybe 200 yards down the road, and guess what happened? Yep, both the battery light and the engine light came on. The battery is good, although I'm going to move it to my other scooter and get a new HD battery for a correct fit.

I still have yet to do the tests on the stator and the voltage regulator. I hope to get to those on Sunday.

Anyway, I'm hoping that it's just a dirty or loose connection. I'm going to look at replacement regulators just in case.

 

I know this is an old thread, but the regulator is shot again. I'm pretty sure, though, that this is because the cover on the negative battery cable had been scraped open and shorted on the frame, melting the negative battery. After replacing the cable and the battery, the bike worked for a few more days. Now, the exact same set of symptoms described above has recurred.

I did run through the same diagnostic tests described above. The values look good for the stator. So, this time I'm putting in a Cycle Electric CE-211 Rectifying Regulator.

 

A negative cable will NOT short out on the frame, seeing how the frame is also negative. A melted negative cable is due to either over-voltage /overcharge condition, excessive current load or bad/loose negative connection somewhere period.

I have had stators test out good with no load, and when under a load they fail.