Clutch and shifting problems. Help!
#1
Clutch and shifting problems. Help!
Hey guys,
Ok, so I've got some issues going on with my new to me 06' Roadster. The bike has 16,000 miles on it.
When the clutch is pulled in, the bike still moves a bit as if the clutch isn't fully pulled in. I believe its causing issues with shifting gears as shifting is often difficult and neutral is nearly impossible to find. With the bike off and in first gear, I'll pull the clutch in and try to move it and it makes the sound of it hitting the gear when I roll it back and forth. When I drained the primary (looks as if it had never been changed), there was a lot of metal shavings on the drain plug.. but again, I doubt the primary has ever been changed.
I just changed out the primary oil with Formula +. I adjusted the clutch pack and clutch cable. I changed out the engine oil with Mobil 1 20/50.
What do I look for next? Am I going to need a whole new clutch assembly?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Adrian
Ok, so I've got some issues going on with my new to me 06' Roadster. The bike has 16,000 miles on it.
When the clutch is pulled in, the bike still moves a bit as if the clutch isn't fully pulled in. I believe its causing issues with shifting gears as shifting is often difficult and neutral is nearly impossible to find. With the bike off and in first gear, I'll pull the clutch in and try to move it and it makes the sound of it hitting the gear when I roll it back and forth. When I drained the primary (looks as if it had never been changed), there was a lot of metal shavings on the drain plug.. but again, I doubt the primary has ever been changed.
I just changed out the primary oil with Formula +. I adjusted the clutch pack and clutch cable. I changed out the engine oil with Mobil 1 20/50.
What do I look for next? Am I going to need a whole new clutch assembly?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Adrian
#2
#3
Is this what I need? http://www.energyoneclutches.com/pro...&cat=13&page=1
#4
#5
Yes that's the correct kit.
I just replaced mine ('06 Low) at about 18,000 miles. The stock clutch appeared to be fine, I consider this preventative maintenance.
If you can find someone that you can borrow the tool from that'll save you some $, that's what I did.
Btw, did you adjust your primary chain?
I just replaced mine ('06 Low) at about 18,000 miles. The stock clutch appeared to be fine, I consider this preventative maintenance.
If you can find someone that you can borrow the tool from that'll save you some $, that's what I did.
Btw, did you adjust your primary chain?
#6
Yes that's the correct kit.
I just replaced mine ('06 Low) at about 18,000 miles. The stock clutch appeared to be fine, I consider this preventative maintenance.
If you can find someone that you can borrow the tool from that'll save you some $, that's what I did.
Btw, did you adjust your primary chain?
I just replaced mine ('06 Low) at about 18,000 miles. The stock clutch appeared to be fine, I consider this preventative maintenance.
If you can find someone that you can borrow the tool from that'll save you some $, that's what I did.
Btw, did you adjust your primary chain?
Oh, and no. I have not adjusted my primary chain. Would that make a difference with the way the clutch is acting though?
#7
From your symptoms, I'm not convinced yet that you have a Spring Plate issue. When the Spring Plate starts to fail, one of the obvious symptoms is the inability to KEEP the clutch in adjustment. The friction zone at the lever will move around from close to the grip to further away from the grip, and then maybe back.
You might try making the clutch adjustment again, this time turning the adjustment screw back 1/2 turn from the snug point instead of the recommended 1/4 turn. This will move the friction zone at the lever further away from the grip. Also make sure you have the clutch cable adjuster fully slack before adjusting the screw.
You might try making the clutch adjustment again, this time turning the adjustment screw back 1/2 turn from the snug point instead of the recommended 1/4 turn. This will move the friction zone at the lever further away from the grip. Also make sure you have the clutch cable adjuster fully slack before adjusting the screw.
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#8
From your symptoms, I'm not convinced yet that you have a Spring Plate issue. When the Spring Plate starts to fail, one of the obvious symptoms is the inability to KEEP the clutch in adjustment. The friction zone at the lever will move around from close to the grip to further away from the grip, and then maybe back.
You might try making the clutch adjustment again, this time turning the adjustment screw back 1/2 turn from the snug point instead of the recommended 1/4 turn. This will move the friction zone at the lever further away from the grip. Also make sure you have the clutch cable adjuster fully slack before adjusting the screw.
You might try making the clutch adjustment again, this time turning the adjustment screw back 1/2 turn from the snug point instead of the recommended 1/4 turn. This will move the friction zone at the lever further away from the grip. Also make sure you have the clutch cable adjuster fully slack before adjusting the screw.
#9
Before I adjusted the clutch, that was the exact symptom I was having. The clutch would not stay in the same spot. So at first, I adjusted the cable thinking that may have been the problem but once the bike was warmed up, it would do just what you mentioned. So next I adjusted the clutch pack (I fully let out the cable first) and the clutch seems to have stayed in the same spot. But now, the problem is that when the clutch lever is completely pulled in, the bike is acting as if its not fully engaged and the bike still moves a bit on its own.
Hopefully the clutch plates can just be replaced, but when you keep riding it after the early symptoms appear you risk damaging the basket and that gets more $$$.
#10