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DELPHI troubles, again!

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  #11  
Old 10-03-2014, 10:35 AM
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For future reference, WD-40 is a terrible contact cleaner don't use it to clean electrical contacts, get a good contact cleaner such as Deoxit.
 
  #12  
Old 10-03-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
And stop calling your bike a POS if you genuinely want help!
My money, my bike,you know...

It has for now 45 k miles on it since I bought it brand new in march 2012. Always has been maintened by this indy, but the guy is more happy when he doesn't see me, I thing...

This is why I'm kind of pissed for now. While being not sure the nearest H-D dealer would be up the Task. This is Europe here...
 
  #13  
Old 10-03-2014, 10:46 AM
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You're not paying attention old chap. I live across the North Sea and have owned Harleys for 40 years. I've yet to own a POS!
 
  #14  
Old 10-03-2014, 12:44 PM
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This is my first H-D. It probably will be my last either. Unless I find a good ol'reliable carbbed 1340 Evo...
 
  #15  
Old 10-04-2014, 10:33 AM
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Ok Guys,

I checked out any connections to the injectors, there is nothing loose, no wire twisted nor bad looking.

I pulled out my coils, to check them following this method:



The measurement between pin A to C and between pin A to D shows an infinite reading, full open, while I should have 0.3 to 0.7 Ohms.

Measuring between the two HT exits to the four pins shows only a reading between those exits and pin B, reading is 0.9 Ohm.

Coils went south I guess, but my question remains: Why does the front cylinder goes well and the rear cylinder gives nothing at all? Weird stuff going on here...
 
  #16  
Old 10-04-2014, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Proteus
Ok Guys,

I checked out any connections to the injectors, there is nothing loose, no wire twisted nor bad looking.

I pulled out my coils, to check them following this method:



The measurement between pin A to C and between pin A to D shows an infinite reading, full open, while I should have 0.3 to 0.7 Ohms.

Measuring between the two HT exits to the four pins shows only a reading between those exits and pin B, reading is 0.9 Ohm.

Coils went south I guess, but my question remains: Why does the front cylinder goes well and the rear cylinder gives nothing at all? Weird stuff going on here...
1st make sure you had a good connection on the pins a/c and a/d,,,bad connection would give a reading of open (infinite).. the reading between the HT posts should be open....a check for the HT posts is between the HT-A to the mounting screw (ground) and HT-B and same mounting screw...reading should be high ohms but I don't know what the actual # is....if all your readings are what you say your coil is bad....
 
  #17  
Old 10-04-2014, 12:21 PM
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I can't quite remember all the past posts ....but have you checked for water in the gas.....to check drain gas into a glass jar and look for water at the bottom....you need to get the gas from the bottom of the tanks as that is where the water sits...
 
  #18  
Old 10-04-2014, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfikser
.if all your readings are what you say your coil is bad....
I also checked the HT wires, the front reads 200 ohms, the rear 600, a slight difference...

I'll order a new coil and two wires, will also have a look at a coil relo, I think the rear HT wire is too exposed to the heat of the engine...

And if this doesn't solve my problem, Ill be there again calling my bike a big POS...
 
  #19  
Old 10-05-2014, 06:21 PM
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also you can reverse the spark wires (both ends.of both wires) and see if that makes a difference i.e., the front cylinder starts missing and the rear doesn't....what I find strange is,,is that the bike should throw codes for running rich at the O2 sensors if it is a bad spark...
 
  #20  
Old 10-05-2014, 06:25 PM
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lets back up a little....first tell me exactly what mods have been done to the bike..such as new exhaust, air cleaner, PCV, etc...
 


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