Sounds like everything is doing what it is designed too.

 

Yeah no doubt about it, big changes in VE tables. I am at 100 miles with 5 vtune runs, the peaks are coming down from 102.5 to 96.5, the valleys are coming up into the 80's.
Am I looking to flatten the VE tables with a high efficiency? The bike is running real good.
I have to keep under 3500 RPM up to 1000 miles. Then I can let it rip. We're expecting a blizzard, so I must be patient.

 

If you mean flat, as in the same everywhere? No- the tables will look like waves, and that makes sense- you don't have the same airflow/fuel requirements at 50 MPH down hill vs 50 MPH going uphill vs 50 MPH on flat level ground.

 

No I don't mean "flat" more like smoother transitions. I only have the 100 miles on it, damn winter won't go away, but I felt like the bike ran stronger as I rode it. Like Steve said I am going let the software work on it until I get 1K miles. Then a visit to the dyno to finish it up.

 

Okay; update. I now have 17 tuning runs in. I did the first 15 with no spark assist, O2 closed loop with auto-extend. The last 2 with spark assist, O2 closed loop with auto-extend. The early break-in miles were done on back country roads and I was very happy with the performance. Recently I have been commuting to work and on the highway I got nothing. It accelerates well up to ~70 but that is it. No matter how much throttle I give it I get nothing more. It has got worse over the last 3 tunes. I compared the VE tables from the original rebuild tune to the latest cal, and a very deep "valley" has been created between 2500 and 3500 rpm at all throttle positions. I have applied EGR changes every time, was that a mistake. At this point I am thinking of starting over again with the original cal DAG205-004, do camtune and continue. Any thoughts?

 

Let's get back to what must be happening so that you can understand where to go next. The data comes from the ECM and then Vtune adds in the corrections based from that data. So if it's driving a hole of valley into the VE table the data is telling it that is what it wants and there is a reason why. You just need to find out why. My guess would be to start with looking at the O2 sensor and how it is fit into the pipes your using. The sensor needs/has to be in there correctly or it will give bad readings. If you look at the sensor itself, where the threads end, needs to be flush with the ID of the pipe it goes into. This sticks the sensor out into the exhaust flow. If it is pulled back out because the mounting is incorrect the sensor will supply bad readings to the ECM and then it makes bad data to be sent out. Take a look at this first and let make sure there is no problems that need to be solved there.

 

Reading back thru the thread ...setting 2 for the SS583 with IVO @5ºbtdc

I understand the specs being typically taken at 54thou but is that right??

 

I need to replace the starter clutch so the bike is in my shop. I replaced the old O2 sensors with new HD ones, I'll check how deep they are in the exhaust. I was wondering about the 2 that I got for the cams, so I plan on doing the camtune again and see what I get this time. The 2 was the 1st deflection on the graph. Could I go up one number?

 

Well, I am done with my starter(didn't find anything wrong). I checked the bungs on the S&S pipes and they are the same depth as the stock pipes. O2 sensors are screwed all the way in. Would I be able to look at my recordings to get an idea if I am getting usable data from those sensors. Doing the oil change this afternoon, my shed is like a sauna right now. After that I will put the starting cal back in and do a camtune. This time I will pay closer attention to the results from the Vtune.

 

If they are the same as stock O2 length and angle that's no good. You need to understand that in a stock exhaust you have a Cat and restrictive muffler which is completely different than any high flow system. With your pipes off look down the pipe and if the sensor is not sticking out easily into the pipe your in trouble and the most likely cause of what your getting now. As I said before the sensor itself must be into the exhaust flow. The sensor is the part that sticks out after the threads on the O2 body.