first 1000 mile service 2014 Road King - overfilled motor oil
#11
09-23-2014, 12:47 AM
Turkey baster method works great. If the oil level "wasn't that important" and is OK to run overfilled then WHY DOES the manual tell you NOT TO overfill? Set your oil to the proper level . The belt gauge (tool) for checking proper tension is cheap and a dealer stock item. I recommend getting one. It's a simple maintenance thing and easy to adjust. I do all my own maintenance for simple peace of mind. I don't trust strangers working on my stuff. Dealer or otherwise but that's just me.
#12
09-23-2014, 04:13 AM
Turkey baster method works great. If the oil level "wasn't that important" and is OK to run overfilled then WHY DOES the manual tell you NOT TO overfill? Set your oil to the proper level . The belt gauge (tool) for checking proper tension is cheap and a dealer stock item. I recommend getting one. It's a simple maintenance thing and easy to adjust. I do all my own maintenance for simple peace of mind. I don't trust strangers working on my stuff. Dealer or otherwise but that's just me.
#13
09-23-2014, 08:21 AM
Turkey baster method works great. If the oil level "wasn't that important" and is OK to run overfilled then WHY DOES the manual tell you NOT TO overfill? Set your oil to the proper level . The belt gauge (tool) for checking proper tension is cheap and a dealer stock item. I recommend getting one. It's a simple maintenance thing and easy to adjust. I do all my own maintenance for simple peace of mind. I don't trust strangers working on my stuff. Dealer or otherwise but that's just me.
+2 on this too
#14
09-23-2014, 08:52 AM
Hey all,
New RK (2014) owner here. Just got my bike back from the dealer who did the first 1,000 mile service. I have a few questions.
The motor was filled with Syn 3 during the service. Oil level is at the max "hot" motor mark on the dipstick (Jiffy stand position) on a 'cold' engine. Clearly, it was overfilled. The owner's manual says "Oil level on a cold engine should never be above the midway point." The dealer says not to worry..."if it was a problem we would have seen it in the post-service test ride." Any worries about oil puking or excessive crankcase pressure when the bike gets really hot on a long ride? I can't imagine that the motor casing/oil was at max temp from the relative short dealer test ride. I tried to bleed-off a little oil from the drain but the dealer used teflon tape and an o-ring on the drain plug. I'd have to pull the drain plug completely...drain all the oil and then refill.
Also, the drive belt is very tight. I measured about 3/8" of belt deflection at the belt deflection window with approx 15 lbs of force. Per the manual, 3/8" is the minimum spec for belt deflection with a 10 lb force on the belt. I don't have the belt deflection tool, but I'm fairly good at estimating amount of force. I read somewhere about bearing wear when a drive belt is too tight. Given the relative newness of the belt, can I expect more stretch/less tension from the belt in the next 1,000 miles or so? ...hence, I should not worry about the belt tension and bearing wear at this time?
So glad I have tools and the shop manual for the RK. I may have the dealer do the next service just to document the service before the 2-yr warranty expires, or just invest in a lift table and do it myself. I did a fair amount of wrenching on a jack stand for my Fat Boy for ten years with no problems. Lastly, for the more complicated work, I could use the name/fon number of a good indy in Bucks County PA (about an hour north of Philadelphia on I-95) if anyone knows.
Appreciate any feedback...
Regards
New RK (2014) owner here. Just got my bike back from the dealer who did the first 1,000 mile service. I have a few questions.
The motor was filled with Syn 3 during the service. Oil level is at the max "hot" motor mark on the dipstick (Jiffy stand position) on a 'cold' engine. Clearly, it was overfilled. The owner's manual says "Oil level on a cold engine should never be above the midway point." The dealer says not to worry..."if it was a problem we would have seen it in the post-service test ride." Any worries about oil puking or excessive crankcase pressure when the bike gets really hot on a long ride? I can't imagine that the motor casing/oil was at max temp from the relative short dealer test ride. I tried to bleed-off a little oil from the drain but the dealer used teflon tape and an o-ring on the drain plug. I'd have to pull the drain plug completely...drain all the oil and then refill.
Also, the drive belt is very tight. I measured about 3/8" of belt deflection at the belt deflection window with approx 15 lbs of force. Per the manual, 3/8" is the minimum spec for belt deflection with a 10 lb force on the belt. I don't have the belt deflection tool, but I'm fairly good at estimating amount of force. I read somewhere about bearing wear when a drive belt is too tight. Given the relative newness of the belt, can I expect more stretch/less tension from the belt in the next 1,000 miles or so? ...hence, I should not worry about the belt tension and bearing wear at this time?
So glad I have tools and the shop manual for the RK. I may have the dealer do the next service just to document the service before the 2-yr warranty expires, or just invest in a lift table and do it myself. I did a fair amount of wrenching on a jack stand for my Fat Boy for ten years with no problems. Lastly, for the more complicated work, I could use the name/fon number of a good indy in Bucks County PA (about an hour north of Philadelphia on I-95) if anyone knows.
Appreciate any feedback...
Regards
#15
09-23-2014, 08:52 AM
reducing its lubrication capability. Don't know if this is the same with a Harley V-twin design.
#17
09-23-2014, 09:03 AM
Surprised at the comment about just leaving it as is and riding. Yet, we tell ppl to buy the service manual and follow it. Just use a turkey baster as others have mentioned. If mine is above 1/2 way on stick when cold---it comes out of my air filter. Others who kept the 4 qts may not have had that issue....but I'd fix it.
#18
09-23-2014, 09:07 AM
Road Warrior
#19
09-23-2014, 03:08 PM
Cruiser
I had the same issue with my 1k service on my SGS. I rode it for 20 min to see if the oil level rose after it got hot but it didn't. But because of my OCD to follow the manual I used a turkey baster and removed the excess. Don't be surprised at how many times you have to fill that dam thing to get to the desired oil level. Follow what your gut says and not what the HD dealer tells you.
