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Time to Change the Handlebars

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  #21  
Old 10-02-2014, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Guntoter
slid in as easy as a small pecker in a well worn hooker.
Sounds like an experienced man there
 
  #22  
Old 10-14-2014, 12:10 PM
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bars are on, but i have no mode selection button, no start button, no right blinker and cruise well.....idk yet. i double checked the wires and pin housing combination and they are good. im going to check the factory wire colors when im free again. any other suggestions. fuel pump kicks on. any suggestions?
 
  #23  
Old 10-14-2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruin08
bars are on, but i have no mode selection button, no start button, no right blinker and cruise well.....idk yet. i double checked the wires and pin housing combination and they are good. im going to check the factory wire colors when im free again. any other suggestions. fuel pump kicks on. any suggestions?
Sounds like you may have some wires in the wrong pin holes. It happens to the best of us. I'd check there first and make sure all of your pins are seated and locked in. If all is good there you may have a bare spot in the harness going to ground. Check fuses as well.

2010 Limited with some stuff
 
  #24  
Old 10-14-2014, 12:45 PM
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^^^ this , make sure you have the pins in right location and also make sure the connections are good sometimes a pin can be turned side ways and won't have a good connection.
 
  #25  
Old 10-14-2014, 04:59 PM
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Ok, I will try that tomorrow. I have overtime with work tonight.....National Night Out Against Crime....lest see how many shootings we have tonight.

I started searching some old threads for "no start with after handlebar install" and one had a pinched kill switch wire.

Does the throttle by wire affect start?

I will be so glad when this is all done.

I am a little worried with the damper rod screws as I couldnt get a good torque on them because I couldnt keep the shock from spinning when I changed to the Porgressive Shocks.
 
  #26  
Old 10-19-2014, 04:55 PM
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I just installed WO 575 on 07 UC fairly easy since I've changed inner fairing several times on few bikes but took me couple hrs to run the hand controls wiring internally way too many pins to pull and put back in correct order. Didn't change any cables ,brake line or wiring all stock worked perfectly after rerouting. Took pictures of the connectors and put them on big screen to make easy on the old eyes one pin in wrong place will screw everything up and test the hand controls for functionality before buttoning up any thing.
 
  #27  
Old 10-19-2014, 09:18 PM
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Yeah, its really not a hard job at all. Its just time consuming and you have to make sure you take you time and pay attention. If I end up helping my buddy change his out, I know things to do different that messed me up when doing mine. Live and learn. I did the 578, its 2 over stock, 575 is stock height just more pull back and different wrist angle. If I was to do it again, I would do the same bars. Im not fan of the looks of big apes on baggers and after riding the bike for one day with the bars adjusted higher, I dont see how people ride with them tall like that. I had TERRIBLE control in slow tight turns and I like to be good at them. Everybody can ride fast and straight, not everybody knows how to really ride their bike.
 
  #28  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruin08
Yeah, its really not a hard job at all. Its just time consuming and you have to make sure you take you time and pay attention. If I end up helping my buddy change his out, I know things to do different that messed me up when doing mine. Live and learn. I did the 578, its 2 over stock, 575 is stock height just more pull back and different wrist angle. If I was to do it again, I would do the same bars. Im not fan of the looks of big apes on baggers and after riding the bike for one day with the bars adjusted higher, I dont see how people ride with them tall like that. I had TERRIBLE control in slow tight turns and I like to be good at them. Everybody can ride fast and straight, not everybody knows how to really ride their bike.
I installed Harley pullback bars on my wife's 08 UC couple years ago, seems like those bars are little lower and closer then 575 . But her bike is lowered both ends and lower seat that might make those bars feel different then a stock bike. I'm with you don't do any upgrade for look but only comfort and performance, showing off in a parking lot full of bikers making tight and slow turns gives me a real pleasure.
 
  #29  
Old 10-21-2014, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Punjabi HD
I installed Harley pullback bars on my wife's 08 UC couple years ago, seems like those bars are little lower and closer then 575 . But her bike is lowered both ends and lower seat that might make those bars feel different then a stock bike. I'm with you don't do any upgrade for look but only comfort and performance, showing off in a parking lot full of bikers making tight and slow turns gives me a real pleasure.
I have the same WO 575 bars with one piece clamp,just waiting for the +4 cable set that I ordered from HDBikeParts to have them installed.I wasn't sure about needing wire extensions,but since your bike ('07) and mine ('06) are basically the same ,now I know that it can be done without.The main reasons I'm changing bars 1)burning pain between shoulders on longer rides 2) my elbow hitting my side in slow tight turns.Did you notice any improvement with the new bars?I'm anxious about the final result,I would be very disappointed spending over $1,300 for the change and not liking it.But I guess that was the only way to find out.Thanks
 
  #30  
Old 10-21-2014, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by luisan
I have the same WO 575 bars with one piece clamp,just waiting for the +4 cable set that I ordered from HDBikeParts to have them installed.I wasn't sure about needing wire extensions,but since your bike ('07) and mine ('06) are basically the same ,now I know that it can be done without.The main reasons I'm changing bars 1)burning pain between shoulders on longer rides 2) my elbow hitting my side in slow tight turns.Did you notice any improvement with the new bars?I'm anxious about the final result,I would be very disappointed spending over $1,300 for the change and not liking it.But I guess that was the only way to find out.Thanks
Wow man why so many $$$$ for the bars, don't need to extend wiring only thing tight is brake line just have bend it different ways with bare hands reroute the clutch cable as close as to steering head still behind the inner fairing underneath the radio bracket, only some wiring has to move away to make room for the throttle and idle cables. You do need to move the connectors around to make stock hand controls harness to fit but there is plenty room to move them around.Took only about 100 mile ride so far initial reaction is mixed it's different yes closer and slightly higher have to get used to it, over 125K on stock bars anything else will be different of course. I would like bars to be slightly higher but then bars rub against the inner fairing. Don't need any special tools to remove pins PM me if need help with anything.
 


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