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Screaming Eagle 103" stage 4 or 110" stage 1

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  #11  
Old 11-21-2014, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
I can't see a 110" conversion being a starter, also the stage IV kit includes new heads, which will cost you more than getting your stock heads ported and gas flowed. We have sponsors including FM and Hillside who can both provide proven high performance conversions. I suggest you investigate both of those (at least) before making a final decision, perhaps include a local tuning shop as well. You could end up better off both financially and performance-wise!
As well as MANY other reputables such as GMR near fort worth, vtwin racing in FL, Torque Inc, Big Boyz, etc. I too would investigate a head porter before spending $ on a stage IV kit.
 
  #12  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:57 AM
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My buddy has a 96" with the 103 big bore and stage 4 kit from Harley. It comes with 255 cams. It is not slow but when I build my stock 2013 103 with cams along I am sure it will leave him in the dust. IF do a 107 with heads which is the real plan he will never be able to come close. As far as being able to get it worked on at the dealer, why would they not be able to work on a different motor. Unless they are taking the motor apart they will not even know if the heads pistons and cams are done except from the sound of the cam.

When I built my Dyna to a 95 with heads and cams (it was an 88 originally) it left him in the dust with his 103 heads and cams. I would not waste money on a Harley kit that is more expensive and provides less performance.

Talk to Dave Mackie if you are looking for a shop that is in the same state.

A megasphere kit will smoke any Harley kit and give you the same amount of reliability. Cost wise it is about the same. One of our regular customers had his 88 turned into a 103" by Mackie and the bike hauls *** and is extremely reliable. He rides every day and has a ton of miles on the kit.

Getting a Harley kit for reliability is like buying a 70's AMF and looking for reliability. Personally, I'll get my stuff from Fuel Moto as they are out of state so there is no sales tax, but there are lots of great engine guys out there that will have much better advice than me.
 
  #13  
Old 11-21-2014, 09:47 AM
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Build your 103.....you can get great results. If you split the cases to do the 110 kit to have them bored, you might as well get the crank done or replaced while you are separating the cases. Its more money, but cheap insurance.....don't ask me how I know. I can show you the bills.
Did the same thing, heads and cams. Had it tuned by a reputable tuner. It ran great nothing crazy, 105/112. Got a slight vibration, turned out the crank pin moved and the runout increased. Had to turn around and have the whole motor torn down again to fix the Flywheels. Dark Horse does very good work by the way. Its always a crap shoot with a stock Harley crank. Some folks build more horsepower and torque and never have a problem, I wasn't so lucky.
 
  #14  
Old 11-21-2014, 09:49 AM
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I believe the OP may be choosing this route for warranty purposes. Waste of money IMO.

2010 Limited with some stuff!!
 
  #15  
Old 11-21-2014, 03:17 PM
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Hi,

You'll need to put ACR's in as well, if you gonna keep the PC V get rebate for tuner and buy ACR harness, ACR's and 58mm air cleaner kit, negoitate with dealer first

Thanks
Mirrmu
 
  #16  
Old 11-21-2014, 03:37 PM
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Only you can answer that, I have had the 88, 96, 103, 103 HO and the 110, the 103 HO was as close to perfect as it gets, than came the 110 twin cooled, I am trying to leave it alone as it runs excellent. change the slipons, a tuner(P/V) and wow, gas mileage should not be a concern, but wow it runs well. Good luck.
 
  #17  
Old 11-21-2014, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mirrmu
Hi,

You'll need to put ACR's in as well, if you gonna keep the PC V get rebate for tuner and buy ACR harness, ACR's and 58mm air cleaner kit, negoitate with dealer first

Thanks
Mirrmu
IMO a better option would be to have the heads drilled and tapped for manual releases. Less money and less hassle if/when the auto's go bad.
 
  #18  
Old 11-21-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by harleytuner
IMO a better option would be to have the heads drilled and tapped for manual releases. Less money and less hassle if/when the auto's go bad.
and if a manual goes out, you grab a socket, unscrew it, clean it up or replace it (5 minutes) instead of pulling tank, rocker covers, rocker support plates (after you're on TDC for each cylinder), rocker box lowers. 2 hours minimum and that's if you know what you're doing and have the correct tools. Your garden variety of hand tools at lowes isn't going to get that ACRs out.
 
  #19  
Old 11-21-2014, 06:04 PM
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looking at the same myself for my 2009 red hot sunglow SG ( nice bike by the way). I am not going the stage iv high compression pistons on my stock crank w/58K miles. I am leaning toward the 110 kit- stock compression and compression release heads. $3100 OTD. no charge for base map since I have the sert.
 
  #20  
Old 11-21-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by UltraNutZ
and if a manual goes out, you grab a socket, unscrew it, clean it up or replace it (5 minutes) instead of pulling tank, rocker covers, rocker support plates (after you're on TDC for each cylinder), rocker box lowers. 2 hours minimum and that's if you know what you're doing and have the correct tools. Your garden variety of hand tools at lowes isn't going to get that ACRs out.
Exactly. I've replaced my ACR's in my 110 heads for the last time. Next time the heads come off they're getting drilled for manuals. No fuss, no muss. You need a pretty charged battery for the ACR's to work. My bike is 11.1:1 compression, if it doesn't start right away the battery drains quick, then they don't open.
 


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