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how can I tell if my battery is about to die

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  #11  
Old 12-16-2014, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Ride my Seesaw
There is one foolproof way to test them and that's with a load tester. It's a voltmeter and dummy load that works by applying a DC load for a short duration to a starter battery, simulating cranking. The voltage drop and recovery time provide a good indication of battery health. To do a CCA pass/fail test, load a fully charged starter battery with half the rated CCA value for 15 seconds. To pass, the voltage must stay above 9.6V at 10º C (50º F) and higher.
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Yes that way usually tells, but I have also had batteries pass the load test and then just a couple of days later fail.
 
  #12  
Old 12-16-2014, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by OwnerOfHarriet
Yes that way usually tells, but I have also had batteries pass the load test and then just a couple of days later fail.
Yes, so true...You're better off listening to what the battery is telling you rather than rely on this test and that test! Have had the same thing happen to me. When the battery gets undependable, it's gone. If it's indicating a good charge either by the OEM voltmeter on the dash or by me using a multi-meter, I get it!
 
  #13  
Old 12-16-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocket67
Make sure you keep it charged using a tender if you go periods of time without use or if you take short trips.


What would be considered a period of time? I don't have a tender but I try to crank it once a week and let it run during the winter
 
  #14  
Old 12-16-2014, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackness03
What would be considered a period of time? I don't have a tender but I try to crank it once a week and let it run during the winter
Get a tender. They can be bought for about $20 at Wal Mart. The only thing you are doing by starting the bike up and letting it run for a bit is allowing condensation to build up in the tank. Not a good thing.
 
  #15  
Old 12-16-2014, 12:05 PM
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  #16  
Old 12-16-2014, 12:34 PM
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Get a tender with desulfation capabilities....even though this is much less critical on an AGM battery it still stimulates the battery and constantly conditions it and could possibly wake-up your seemingly tired battery.

Good luck!
 
  #17  
Old 12-16-2014, 12:50 PM
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I've noticed that a fresh battery will start the bike, and the radio stays on. When the battery is starting to get old, the radio will reboot once in a while, while the engine cranks. When the battery is really getting old the radio will reboot every time I start the bike, and there will be a little hesitation while it cranks. Then when you go out to take a ride on an absolutely gorgeous day, the battery will be dead as a door nail.


Then it's time to do your best Yosemite Sam swear, and buy a new battery.





 

Last edited by shooter5074; 12-16-2014 at 12:52 PM.
  #18  
Old 12-17-2014, 11:46 AM
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Thanks for the feedback fellas, much appreciated.
 
  #19  
Old 12-17-2014, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by OwnerOfHarriet
Yes that way usually tells, but I have also had batteries pass the load test and then just a couple of days later fail.
Interesting. I suspected the battery on my cage was getting weak. It was in for service this past Monday and they checked it out, and claimed it was good. Then yesterday, I left the lights on for about 20 minutes while I ran into a store for beer. Back to the car, the battery was dead.

Gave me an opportunity to test the responsiveness of AAA again....30 minutes. I told him to just replace the battery, and now I'm good.

FWIW...the cage had recently passed by 5 months my 4 year window where I replace the batteries as a preventative measure.
 
  #20  
Old 12-17-2014, 12:10 PM
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Clean and tighten all the cables on your bike and give it a good charge (not trickle charge). Then determine if you need a new battery.
Note: Replaced battery on my F150 last week. It was still cranking good, never had any problems with it but, it was 11 years old. I bought the truck new in 2003.
 


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