The Quicksilver oil is full Synthetic, 20w50, vTwin oil. It is avail in gallons and quarts. I get mine from the Marine section at Wally Supercenter.
It is distributed by Mercury Marine. The company and their marine customers are almost as **** about their motors as we are.

 

That's the conclusion I came up with after my valve train got extremely louder using synth oil. I quieted it down considerably after going back to dino oil. It didn't happen right away but took a couple thousand miles almost like it dislodged a blockage of some kind. When it quieted down it was immediate and noticeable.
Now that I'm in tolerable temperatures, my next oil change I will be using Rotella T 15w40. I know the abuse big rig motors subject the oil and they run their oils for thousands and thousands of miles. It's no wonder the MoCo recommends you top oil with a diesel rated oil if you cant find any while touring.

 

I really do like reading oil threads --

I was a 30 plus user of Amsoil(always ran extended drains) in my bikes and some cars (that didn't leak badly) I have since switched to Castrol RS oil and found the bikes and my truck to quiet down immensely. One bike has 110,000 on it the other 20,000 and the truck 130,000 plus.

Never had any failures with Amsoil -- but will now be using Castrol.

 

To the OP was that your first oil report? If so it takes at least 2-3 tests to establish a baseline, than start to look for trends.
To those reports that are posted your silicon levels exceed the normal range, you need to change oil and look for intake leaks on the filtered side of the filter.
Also to hog95023 besides your high silicon your zinc is way too low. Zinc is for metal surface protection

 

Thanks for the info. I was concerned the bike was using that much oil when I Rrived in South Dakota and wanted to keep the same brand and weight oil to keep the test results as simplistic as possible. So I paid and shipped the extra oil incase I needed it.

Any suggestions as to why silicone is high and zinc low? I removed the air filter in downtown Sturgis at the S&S booth to add a rain sock. The bottom was caked a little by the inner edge but nothing too bad. I cleaned it back at the room that night and checked when I got home and removed the sock. Filter was clean. There was some oil residue inside the 66mm throttle body, which I wiped clean.

 

I religiously ran Quicksilver 25-40 in my boat until it went up to $14.00 a quart. At ten quarts an oil change with filter was $150.00. I now run Mobil 1 15-50 and a ten quart oil change with filter is $80.00. I'm **** but not $150.00 an oil change ****.

 

but checkers above said it was $22 per gallon at walmart. at just over $5 qt, if mine carries it, i'm gonna give it a try.

 

I have to correct my self, I thought the column on the right was your numbers, but it is the averages. So youre within the limits. But to answer your questions as far as the silicon the only way that gets in the motor is through a air leak behind the intake filter or filling the oil from a contaminated containor or funnel.
zinc is an additive put in to protect metal surfaces, the industry removed this from oils bbecause it destroys catalytic converters. I did find how to get oil with high zinc and that is to buy oil labeled "racing" oil. The 2 best ones I have found based on past experiences and the recommendations from top notch reputable builders is Schaffers Harley Davidson racing oil comes in both syn blend and full syn, I belive the blend is #7001 and the other is Valvoline VR1 full syn.
Remember on the subjects of oil especially here on forums, IMHO oil is a religion not a science. lol
Oil doesnt really break down, it is the additives that break down, and if a couple of chemicals breakdown to some degree, they throw the other chemical additives (chem pack) off and the oil can degrade rapidly.
You mentioned your filter was clean, if dirt was entering behind the filter that could show a clean filter (leak would be the path of least resistance) but here youre within the limits so dont freak out. The clump you mentioned on the gasket, clean that good and use some type of a grease film on it, that will help seal out areas that dirt can enter KN has their own stuff but anything that wont degrade the rubber seal will work.
If youre worried about the trend, wait until the second test, or if you wanted to do a half interval sample. If I had to make a desktop guess, Id think maybe your oil may have broken down viscosity wise and thats why youre using some. Not sure how you pulled the sample to be tested but the correct is to drain it hot, let a good third of the oil drain then take a sample bottle full. If it was sucked off the top or when cold it can give you false readings as solids sink to the bottom, and when hot the impurities are suspended in the oil. But if the oil broke down it wont be able to suspend the impurities. Sorry for the long post on oil.

 

Thanks bagman1. I changed it hot and caught the sample via the oil stream after the oil flowed in the drain pan for a few seconds I was trying to get it after a quart or so emptied based on an eyeball. Wear good gloves cause that stuff is hot.

 

Dribble, I am not familiar with the Quicksilver 25w40, it may be more expensive then the vTwin specific 20w50. I am not a $15/qt guy either. I tried the QS vTwin oil 2 summers back, due to the price. When I found how "quiet" the motor got I have stayed with it.