Had my 120r now for about 9 months. Within first 300 miles i choose to replace the se266 cams with something else(Wood 408-6) moving the torque curve to the left, replaced the lifters with S&S lifters, installed adj push rods and reworked the heads and replaced the valve springs.

This was all after a 3 hour conversation with Bob Wood and my local indy.

Result was a much more ridable bike with a torque curve that starts at approx 2 k and pulls to around 5500.
HP and Tq are both north of 135 so engine is stout

I have not concerned myself with the belt or compensator as both are holding up well so far. I may have to deal with these in the future but for now no issues.

I have not babied the bike post engine install and in fact ride the bike fairly aggressively.

I do not have a lot of miles, approx 2 k, on the engine to date, however have dynoed and am using a PV as the tuner. Biggest issue im dealing with is which pipe to run as i am not a fan of D&D.

Currently running full sac x pipe but considering fuel moto XXX pipe to compliment the CFR mufflers.

My advice, break it in correcrly, ride it like normal. A 120 r is just a bigger version of the twin cam along with the associated problems of a bigger engine.

 

check out this article
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

If the dealer has done the initial tune, the break in is done and rings are set, not much you can do about it know.

I had one of the first 120's back in the fall of 2010, it was the kit form before the crate came out in 11. Take the advice and change the lifters out if you plan on riding it. I had the front exhaust lifter go out at 8800 and took out everything. Thought it was a isolated problem, rebuilt it and at 21,000 it happened again. Do your self a favor and change the cams while your at it. The 266's are great for top end but for street use consider something else. I switched to a T-man 660sm, a buddy used T-man 662-2, both were torque monsters. Woods 408 is another choice.

enjoy the power!

 

Thats the old school thought process. Now after doing a few heat cycles and 20+miles go get it dynoed. FWIW air cooled aircraft motors are tested at 85% throttle after oil pressure has been established.

 

Got a '14 SGS 120R factory build. Here's how they built it:

Offset rocker support plate
Roller rockers
Wood roller lifters
Factory 266 cam
Replaced triple valve springs with dual springs
.030 head gasket
High-output starter
Vance & Hines High-Output Pro Pipe (single)
58mm throttle body
Deep Breather intake
Oil blow-by lines re-routed to catch can under motor
JAGG fan-assisted oil cooler low-mounted (set 180F)
Extra capacity +1.5 quart SE oil pan
V-Rod spark plugs
All software updates
ETA SE variable pressure clutch
I'm sure there are other things done to motor I do not know about

Drive it easy first 100 miles and have rpm limiter set 4500 rpm for first 1000 miles.

Dyno after first 1000 miles. Run MAP to 7000 rpm. Torque curve will be flat from 3000 to 6000 but there's still power at 7000.

VERY IMPORTANT: Have specific experienced veteran mechanic assigned to work on motor. Don't rely on just any wrench. My motor is signed by my mechanic and nobody touches motor but him and me.

 

Dealer put 300 miles on it prior to delivery; and I was told the lifters should be swapped out every 6000, so that all makes sense. Thanks for the replies. This is good stuff! Keep it coming!

 

Never heard changing every 6000 miles? I try to do mine every 20,000 unless I change out cams and the current lifters aren't brand new. If your dealer is saying they need to be changed that often you might want to find a better mechanic and have him do a once over of your install?

 

There us a mention in the SE catalog of evaluating lifters every 7500 miles as a wear item. After my catastrophic engine failure due to a lifter. You can bet your a$$ im going to check mine every 10K. Another engine failure is not what im looking for even if my lifters are S&S.

 

Looking at my lifter failure there is no way I could have determined it was going to happen, other than reading that others were having issues with the SE type having failures. I know replacing every 6000 to 10,000 miles would be cheaper than what I had to pay to get everything else replaced.

 

Lifters do fail but changing them like a oil filter is a waste of money. Lifters are designed to last the life of the engine. Id like to see the mention in the se catalog because its not in any of mine.