Yeah; I have several resources I can explore and find what would be best for me and stay there. I'm talking to lots of locals with similar bikes. We'll get it handled, no worries. Still looking for a good Indy Dyno shop locally, there's places to go, I just have to research and talk to them.

 

Post break in 1k service completed and I had a new Dyno done. It was free, And so it's riding fine, I've not had any problems.. As someone pointed out in the Dyno for Baggers page, the numbers are good on paper but they take too long to get there and apparently the hp/tq numbers don't cross where they should. Thinking about taking it somewhere else.... Can you gentemen offer any advice? I took the first half of my Top Gun class over this past weekend, the power band on the low end seems to have made feathering the clutch a bit inconsistent for my taste. I don't know how much of that is rider error (doubtful), the hydraulic clutch, or the tune. I'd like some input before I take it in. Any critique is welcome.

 

Just looking this thread over for the first time. Congrats on the new ride!!

First throught that came to my mind was how good (or not so much)the stock suspension is on one of those SGs and with all that power you are going to want all the suspension you can get. - So you might be thinking about rear shocks that are much more capable than the stockers, if they are the same as the base bikes?

Secondly, with all that power it's not like you need more, but it would be very nice to get it much earlier than 4K. ...different cams maybe? other headwork?

If I were you, (I have lots of time and find it easy to spend other peoples money) I would be talking to Jaime out at Fuel Moto USA and get some ideas from him to make it a more streetable and long term reliable, (suspension and earlier power band tuning) then make an appointment. Then make the beautiful ride out there, let him sprinkle magic dust for about 24 hours, while you relax in the spa at the Country Inn. It'll be a gorgeous ride sometime late Springtime or early Summer. Then ride a different route back with a much different engine and ride underneath you.

It's a gorgeous 1100 mile ride for you out there, and you and the machine deserve it.

Beleive me... 120 cubic inches, I gotta' believe you could be about 100hp and 120tq before you hit 3K on the tach and then quickly spin up more before 3500. I know it would be nice to get the perfect power right off the factory floor, but hey.. the EPA and all.. those guys at HD have EPA and other retrictions they have to live by.

There, now that I've spent all your money, ain't you glad I read the thread? give 'em a call.

 

I had Progressives new Monotube and cartridge kit in front, and Legend Revo-A's in back. Suspension handled! Between that and new fork legs, day makers galore and other odds and ends, I spent all my money already. Lol

 

HP and torque should cross at 5252, those appear to be crossing sooner than that. It could very well just be that the lines are being printed on the grid with a shift to the left for some unknown reason, or those lines a bullcrap.

I don't recommend changing cams to get more power at a lower RPM, because you'll be giving up more at the top than you gain at the bottom. If you need more low-end grunt, change the front belt pulley to a smaller one or the rear pulley to a larger one. That will increase the torque multiplication without giving up your higher average horsepower.

 

Well, if you ever need more help spending your hard earned money.. just let me know. I got lots of practice at it!

Hows the bike running? You don't need to fix what ain't broke? But the tinkering is a bit of a disease around here. I know it is for me.

 

It's runnng fine, really, I had the dealer put the throttle sensitivity to 100%, The only issue I've had is an infrequent sputter at take off, it's like its starting out in 2nd gear, best I can describe it... Needs a rev to overcome it... That could be something on my fault, maybe. I've stalled it once since the new Dyno? Never happened before, though seems to need a little more gas than I would like to get going? Hard to describe. Dealer has only done the 1k service, the Dyno, the suspensions and new front forks (black, figured I'd do it now since it's the same 4 hours of labor while doing the suspension). Everything else so far I've done myself. I've done my bars twice, new seat, and all the lighting (aux and fogs, and headlight)

The new suspension is a world of difference. Very happy I did that. Now I'm focused on the Tallboys board extension brackets, I dropped my bike twice driving the shifter side bracket into the ground, during my Top Gun class on Saturday (1st half) and I had cut that bracket down already before I installed it. The new suspension helped greatly with my lean angles, but I want more. Trying to get there without moving the boards back to stock... It's kind of cramped there... I think the throttle spitter issue had something to do w my 1st drop, too. I just lost momentum on a tight turn and the throttle wasn't there when I expected it to be.

There was no damage on my drops. Guard did what it's supposed to do, which is a relief, I was really worried about dropping the new bike... Not worried any more.

I'm not actually interested in tinkering. I don't need a hot rod, I just want the best ride possible out of what I have and I don't really think that that last Dyno is where it's at. It's already a race motor. Shouldn't need much more to ride well, should it? Or maybe my problems stem from using a race motor as a street rider.. That could be an issue too, but I still think I can do better than this.

 

Op

The issue down low is the cams. The se 266e comes on around 3 to 3.5k and pulls to 6200 or more

I had many difficult take offs with the 266 cams and ultimately chose to change them to something else.

I am now running woods 408 cams and my power comes on around 2k and i pull to about 5500

My hp and tq are both north of 130 and it is usable power

power is usable in all gears and take offs are normal, wheelies in 3 gear are also something you can demand If you want, however my first came as a surprise

I have not broken a belt yet, have not had a clutch or compensator problem either and have over 4 k on the bike.

My ssuggestion, change the cams to street cams vs race cams and you will be pleased.

Even the se 259 is better than the se 266.

 

Thank you for all that information!!

 

The peak numbers are about average for a 120r. Your low end numbers are horrible for a 120r which has a lot to do with your exhaust and tuning.