Ive done a few bar swaps on late model touring,, but,, with 2015 being the CAN BUS system, does that affect the internal handlebar wiring in any way? Is the dreaded green connector still on the twist grip sensor? Is the CVO style 32310-08 sensor still the cure for that? Any changes I need to be aware of before hand with the new model Road King as compared to the 2013 model?
Thanks,
Dwayne

 

yes the green connector is still in there.
If you can go to 12" and I have seen some go to 14" apes with the Oem wiring,
I install 12" yaffe classic bagger apes on my 14 ultra limited, I have heated grips and the trusty ole dealer said it wouldnt work. well they have a history of telling me that and I have a history of proving them wrong. the other big change is that the TBW connectors are different from years past if you buy HD's throttle extension it will not work it has male pins instead of female. tried that too. had the dealer swap the pins and did install resulting in half throttle only and cruise light on constantly. Pulled it back out and forced them to give me my money back. I then just taped the green connector and pulled the OEM harness back through.


2014 Ultra limited

 

I am installing the WO502 12.5" bars. Good info here. I do appreciate it!

 

I went with 16" la choppers , used guerrilla cable extensions , cut and eliminated the green plug. The can bus is easy to run through the bars I believe there's plenty of wire for 12" bars not sure about 14s.

 

So when you eliminated the green plug did you mean cut and hard wire?

Like this writeup:
http://www.roadglide.org/showthread....cs/5897?page=1

Thanks in advance

 

DHubs I just did the EXACT bar swap on my '15 RK a couple weeks ago. All that was needed was the two Harley 4" wire extensions. I had to reroute the clutch cable and brake cable a bit but the stock cables and TBW were fine. If you have any other questions, PM me.

 

I did the CVO tbw harness for my 16's on my sgs. Haven't ridden it yet but don't seem to have any issues just sitting in the garage. I bought the new connector to swap onto the CVO harness and re pinned it myself.

 

Sorry for the late reply. Yes I cut the green plug out and soldered the wires back together.

 

Thank you for the replies guys. Got the apehangers on the OL's bike this weekend. Was a piece of cake! It went much easier than the bars on my 2013 FLHRSE5 or my FLHTCU did. It was still a full days work in the garage but the wires pulled through the Wild1 Chubbys so much easier because of the BUS CAN system. There is no need to unpin any wiring connectors any longer. I reused the original TBW twist grip sensor. I simply pulled the twist grip sensor out of the hole at the top end of the bars far enough to disconnect the 2 connectors then pulled the wiring harness out through the bottom hole. I ran two lengths of mechanics wire through the throttle side bar & pulled the twist grip sensor through first. Once through I slid a 3 inch section of heat shrink tubing over each of the wiring connectors & put a dab of dielectric grease on the connectors pins & hooked them up. I heated the heat shrink until it fit tightly around each connector. After I was satisfied the TBW sensor was installed properly I proceeded to pull the CAN BUS wiring through the bars. The connectors are small enough to easily pull through without unpinning the connectors. I did use Namz wiring extensions on the CAN BUS wiring but they are plug and play! The throttle sensor is plenty long enough to use as it is without extending the wiring when installing 12.5 inch bars, probably 14 inch bars also. I went ahead and replaced the exhaust gaskets in the heads while the exhaust was off for replacing the clutch cable. Everything went without a hitch. There is no gottchas with this job. If you have done it on earlier model bikes you will love the CAN BUS wiring inside the bars. Piece of cake. Hope this helps someone later.
Dwayne

 

Were the Wild 1's bars still 3/8" to long and need trimming on the left side in front of the controls/