I am thinking about putting a Stage IV Kit in a 2011 103" Streetglide. Any concerns for long distance ride reliability or excessive heat?

 

I wouldn't worry about reliability if ya ride sane or heat with a proper tune. Ya can do better for less in the aftermarket though...

 

If you go that far to modify your engine you should not expect a whole lot of longevity. Higher compression and heavier valve springs alone will greatly increase the wear on your heavily modified engine. `Just a fact of life.

 

This.

Top fuelers only run 1/4 mile, and pray they don't grenade before they get to the end, and that's as HI-PO as I can think of...

NASCAR doesn't run the HP that NHRA does, but they still hope to get 500 miles without cratering.

My neighbor's 197-something Toyota has 300,000 miles on it, and still going.

We want something in between, and I think stock, or stock with a Stage 1 and a good tune get there.

If you want "fast" and "powerful", look hard at a ZX14R or a 'Busa..... They're about half the cost, and no matter what you do to a Harley, you can't beat them.

 

meh.. mine is fully done and ive been a thousand miles from home without a care in the world. 18000 miles and counting.. of course reliability is a concern from modifying anything but if done correctly you should not have issues.

ive been thru downtown sturgis and of course any air cooled bike is not gonna like that but it made it through without any complaints other than cooking my thighs. not the bikes fault.

 

Making sure that it is tuned will make all the difference in longevity, rideability and heat. If you let the dealer download the map for that kit and call it good, you will be somewhat disappointed in all 3. Figure in a dynotune in the cost and get it right away, don't wait. Oh and that kit ain't bad.

 

Thanks for the info!!

 

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If you deicide to go with stage IV kit having much higher spring rates with more aggressive lobe design on cams and higher compression make sure you dont run std run of the mill bike oil (for ex SYN3) & use a oil specifically formulated for modded high perf high compression air cooled v-twins .

Thats because it will have a higher lvl of anti wear / anti hear heat agent (ZDDP/Zinc & Phos) that will significantly reduce wear in areas if high stress with stronger v-springs where for example the rollers on lifters contact cam lobes that have a much more aggressive design with faster ramp/opening rate creating much more pressure then stock that on that contact area along with the rest of the valvetrain too along with also better protecting the motor from the additional heat head higher compression creates too.

Be careful your compression & cam profile combo doesn't create too much cyl pressure resulting in detonating and or dieseling/running on when shutting the motor down post riding in warmer summer temp on 91 or 93 premium ethenol'd pump fuel so make sure to run that by whoever is helping you with the build & or when buying the stage IV kit to avoid that issue all together because yuo dont want to have to run real lead octane booster thats very pricey but great stuff when needed (http://www.wildbillscorvette.com/OctaneSupreme01.htm) or race fuel,thats a real pia to find and more expensive then real lead booster when you do the math.

Also,if motor on edge of detonation or running on at times when shutting down hot due to requiring more octane then 91-93 pump fuel with ethnol can provide that can make it run a bit hotter too.

I would also highly rec Ward's cooling fans along with bike oil with a higher antiwear agent in its additive pkg for a stage IV build for the added protection & longjevity both those things will provide.

Here's the link to Wards website with data showing they really do work as stated and look very good being avail in many diff colors/combo's too,i will be buying them as soon as i get a few bucks put aside because any stock to highly modded air cooled HD v-twin can benefit a lot from Ward's cooling fans IMHO.

http://www.wardspartswerks.com/cooling-fans.html

It's also key to ensure you have proper tune post stage IV upgrade to ensure the motors not running too lean at all throttle positions & in all cond because if fuel calibration is too lean that will increase engine temp.

Bottom line is if " you do it right " like for example the guys that do the 3k mile power tours with 800+HP muscle cars with no problems i think it could be done (Touring at times) with a stage IV kit ,but even when done right you cant expect a stage IV build with much more stress on some internal engine parts with a bit more heat being introduced to the motor to last approx as long as a stock or stage 1 build or be as comfortable to ride (esp in heavy traffic) with all else being =.

Scott

 

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Thats great advice and a nice way to put it.

Scott