best head for 107 kit
#11
#12
Don't get too caught up into the idea that head work has to match the cams. Fuel moto runs all sorts of cams using their level b heads and seems to have decent results with all of the cams used, 222's, 555's, 777's , 888's and 8-6's. And in differing displacements as well. If it was so critical to "match" the cams to the heads then they would tailor each set of heads to the set of cams being used in each kit. Or they wouldn't offer so many cam options with their 107 level b kit. But they do. Their headwork is cnc so they could have done it if they thought the results would warrant it. I'm not saying it is easy to develop different head designs but i'd bet they came upon many different types of porting that worked better,while developing what ended up being called the level B, with lets say the 555's than the level B does and works about the same with the 777's and not as good with the 888's but the results were not significantly better to warrant developing 2 or 3 levels of headwork.
The thumper series head will benefit from high compression,big duration cam shafts, and big throttle body ports for people looking for the power moved higher in the rpm. While these heads work great on big ci engines and small ones with big compression(11:5 plus to 1) . They will not make the power where 95 % of the people want them to.
#13
I have to completely disagree with you on this one. Lets compare the tman pro touring head vs the tman thumper head. The pro touring head will work better for making torque down low when combined with a port matched throttle body. the pro tour heads have a smaller port to keep the velocity up for lower compression and smaller cams. All the cams you have listed are small lift cams as designed mainly for a smaller ported head like the level b and the pro touring from tman.
The thumper series head will benefit from high compression,big duration cam shafts, and big throttle body ports for people looking for the power moved higher in the rpm. While these heads work great on big ci engines and small ones with big compression(11:5 plus to 1) . They will not make the power where 95 % of the people want them to.
The thumper series head will benefit from high compression,big duration cam shafts, and big throttle body ports for people looking for the power moved higher in the rpm. While these heads work great on big ci engines and small ones with big compression(11:5 plus to 1) . They will not make the power where 95 % of the people want them to.
#14
If it were me personally, I would send my heads to someone like Vee-Twin or hillside. Tell them your cams and deck height and you end up with a set of heads for YOUR build. That includes correcting static compression and a port job that flows where YOU need it to. Off the shelf heads are fine for "plug and play" applications but the original question was "best heads for..."
This is my educated opinion coming from years of race v8's where your builds had to be matched or lose big. Coming into the Harley world I have come to realize a lot of guys like off the shelf components and, as I say, " plug and play" parts. Can these parts preform well, yes....are they always the "best" for a build, no.
This is my opinion, take it for what it's worth....
This is my educated opinion coming from years of race v8's where your builds had to be matched or lose big. Coming into the Harley world I have come to realize a lot of guys like off the shelf components and, as I say, " plug and play" parts. Can these parts preform well, yes....are they always the "best" for a build, no.
This is my opinion, take it for what it's worth....
#15
The bottom line here is find a company like tman,fuel moto,hillside,etc and use them for the entire build. Don't try to second guess their recipe for torque and power. Tell them what you want and how much you can afford. Don't forget the exhaust and tune has a huge part on making power with a Harley.
The following users liked this post:
N1ghtmare (05-26-2023)
#16
The bottom line here is find a company like tman,fuel moto,hillside,etc and use them for the entire build. Don't try to second guess their recipe for torque and power. Tell them what you want and how much you can afford. Don't forget the exhaust and tune has a huge part on making power with a Harley.
By the way "sporacer" ... those are badass numbers with your T-Man 124".
#18
Join Date: Mar 2012
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My Indy, who I consider a surgeon as do many others suggested S&S which he just ordered for my 01 Road King in 97". In anticipation of this build we put Andrews 57 cams in 2 years ago. He explained that S&S is very particular about the break in period. Hoping to have my bike back in a month and I don't want to say how long it has been there. He is very good but very slow....
#19
Join Date: Jul 2007
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All good builders are slow.
Most kits come off a shelf. Nothing wrong on it, saves time and some coins with good results.
Before I do anything I check the run out. Then I know how far I can go.
Heads are a very important part for performance most kits do not take into consideration.
This requires custom work which is costly. I look at what direction I want to take, HP or TQ. When you build like this it takes custom work and sometimes custom parts. The out come is beyond what a kit can do.
I see it like this, if I want a build but restricted to amount I'll use a kit. If I have enough cash I do a custom build.
Most kits come off a shelf. Nothing wrong on it, saves time and some coins with good results.
Before I do anything I check the run out. Then I know how far I can go.
Heads are a very important part for performance most kits do not take into consideration.
This requires custom work which is costly. I look at what direction I want to take, HP or TQ. When you build like this it takes custom work and sometimes custom parts. The out come is beyond what a kit can do.
I see it like this, if I want a build but restricted to amount I'll use a kit. If I have enough cash I do a custom build.
#20
Many good points noted in the thread so let me add my $.02. There are many levels of head porting services being offered by not only forum sponsors but also businesses throughout the country. You have to take a look at the big picture and what is your end goal when it comes to performance.
Some people are wanting more performance than the stock platform has to offer. Usually a Stage II (exhaust, cam, air cleaner and tuning device) will satisfy the majority. Some may gut the stock header and put slip on mufflers and others opt for a complete exhaust.
Then their is the next group of people who crave larger displacement and more performance gains using adding a big bore kit. While adding a kit the cam selection, exhaust and head porting is also brought into the equation. You may even consider modifying the throttle body or buying a new housing (HPI or S&S). Pending on the level of performance work the bottom end needs attention which adds to the costs of the build.
Finally, there are the tinkers/ tweakers who are trying to extract the maximum hp/tq from their engine pushing the performance limits. They spend a lot of time reading, researching and money in search of the holy grail. Some are fortunate enough to be able to turn their own wrenches to minimize the costs.
The important thing is to get parts that work well together and have proven/ repeatable results. So to answer your question pertaining to "best head for a 107" will depend on your level for performance goals and the size of your wallet. If you determine your riding style, what rpm range you normally ride within will get you close. You can get a basic head porting services for as little as $300 and on the other end of the spectrum going north of $2000 (not to exclude B2/ MVA/ or 110 heads).
I remember reading a post one time that said (paraphrase):
1. How much performance do you want
2. How deep is your pockets/ wallet
3. How reliable of a build do you want. (The more radical you go including compression and quality of gas can affect the engine(s) health and longevity.)
PICK TWO because you can't have your cake and eat it too.
Some people are wanting more performance than the stock platform has to offer. Usually a Stage II (exhaust, cam, air cleaner and tuning device) will satisfy the majority. Some may gut the stock header and put slip on mufflers and others opt for a complete exhaust.
Then their is the next group of people who crave larger displacement and more performance gains using adding a big bore kit. While adding a kit the cam selection, exhaust and head porting is also brought into the equation. You may even consider modifying the throttle body or buying a new housing (HPI or S&S). Pending on the level of performance work the bottom end needs attention which adds to the costs of the build.
Finally, there are the tinkers/ tweakers who are trying to extract the maximum hp/tq from their engine pushing the performance limits. They spend a lot of time reading, researching and money in search of the holy grail. Some are fortunate enough to be able to turn their own wrenches to minimize the costs.
The important thing is to get parts that work well together and have proven/ repeatable results. So to answer your question pertaining to "best head for a 107" will depend on your level for performance goals and the size of your wallet. If you determine your riding style, what rpm range you normally ride within will get you close. You can get a basic head porting services for as little as $300 and on the other end of the spectrum going north of $2000 (not to exclude B2/ MVA/ or 110 heads).
I remember reading a post one time that said (paraphrase):
1. How much performance do you want
2. How deep is your pockets/ wallet
3. How reliable of a build do you want. (The more radical you go including compression and quality of gas can affect the engine(s) health and longevity.)
PICK TWO because you can't have your cake and eat it too.