Thanks, that just made my mind up, not going to cut the tab off to where i can't bring it back to stock. its lowered now but if i were to want to bring back to stock.

 

If I ever mess with it, I'd probably want a bracket to bolt up rather than cutting and its very low on my list..........wheels back to stock side, seat, bars, windshield and better suspension. Not necessarily in that order.

 

No, I unbolt the caliper and slide it down the disc until it comes off. I have enough slack in my brake line to go just far enough to remove the caliper. If I didn't have the aftermarket brake line with more slack, the front wheel would definitely have to be dropped down a little for caliper clearance.

 

I hearya, been there love it more now than when deciding and spending $, maybe a CVO with a 120ci next time, I heard the 16s will have the 120 option thanks

 

This is the final look with every thing bolted up..

 

looks good. have a close up at the bracket/fork?

mike

 

Could you just hog out the holes a little bit?? If I recall there is a good bit of materiel thgere

 

heres one pic..it was just one of those things that kelp bothering me..the hardest thing was removing the fairing to unplug the fender tip light, but thats not too bad.
Greg

 

Actually after you get the welded nut cut off and theres a brass washer stamped to the outside you need to drill the 3 little dimples to get it off, drill just the brass not the fender. Put the fender back on with the rear bolts and duct tape the 5/16 bit, the tape will help not to cut into the aluminum fork boss hole. Drill through the original hole and push down on the front of the fender and the drill bit will cut a slot until the fender is level, it will cut it quickly...

 

Now THAT is what I am talking about !!!! Carefully nibble the captured nut to remove !! I have an extra or two fork lower which could be used too, make it even easier. Thanks for the info !!!