Rear wheel install, how do you do it?
#21
05-23-2015, 02:01 PM
Swapping rear wheels is one of those things that some guys seem to have a deathly fear of. Like everything, it gets easier with practice. After doing it a handful of times, it's simple and painless. I like to use a jack to lift the bike off the wheel, and lower it back over the wheel on installation. The wheel stays on the shop floor, or table bed, the bike is moved up and down as needed. Get a decent hydraulic jack, it doesn't have to be expensive. The sears red jack will do just fine, and you'll get years of service out of it. You can also use a scissor jack, which is generally what you'd use if your bike was on a table. You don't need a jack, but it sure makes it easier. I've done rear wheel swaps in a campground, with the bike perched on a stump, and me lifting the wheel into place with my legs as I sat underneath the rear of the bike.
Remove the left muffler if you have one, and possibly the forward saddlebag support mount, so it can also be moved out of the way. If you're using a jack to raise and lower your bike, be careful of the change in center of gravity when the wheel comes off. It's a good idea to strap your bike to the lift, but when you raise and lower the bike, you need to be adjusting the ratchet straps as you go.
I watched some of the video mentioned earlier in the thread, and cringed at a couple of bad ideas. First, remove the caliper from the mounting bracket before you try to remove the wheel. Tie it to the right side saddlebag support rail with a zip tie. Obviously, if you have a 07-older bike, that's not an option. Upgrading to the 08 caliper/mount/rotor is a great thing to do for older bikes, if for no other reason than simplifying your wheel and brake maintenance. Secondly, use the correct size wrench. The rear axle nuts are 36mm, not 1-7/16". Using a too-large wrench will dork up your axle nuts.
Remove the left muffler if you have one, and possibly the forward saddlebag support mount, so it can also be moved out of the way. If you're using a jack to raise and lower your bike, be careful of the change in center of gravity when the wheel comes off. It's a good idea to strap your bike to the lift, but when you raise and lower the bike, you need to be adjusting the ratchet straps as you go.
I watched some of the video mentioned earlier in the thread, and cringed at a couple of bad ideas. First, remove the caliper from the mounting bracket before you try to remove the wheel. Tie it to the right side saddlebag support rail with a zip tie. Obviously, if you have a 07-older bike, that's not an option. Upgrading to the 08 caliper/mount/rotor is a great thing to do for older bikes, if for no other reason than simplifying your wheel and brake maintenance. Secondly, use the correct size wrench. The rear axle nuts are 36mm, not 1-7/16". Using a too-large wrench will dork up your axle nuts.
#22
05-24-2015, 08:44 PM
Working alone necessitates developing methods that will make a job easier.
I use a 2"x4", about 3' long, positioned over a 6" cylinder as a fulcrum. The one end of the 2"x4" has 2 pieces of 2"x2" nailed to it, to cradle the tire/wheel, helping to steady it while raising, by stepping on the other end of the 2"x4". This leaves me with both hands free and it does not take much effort to raise and hold the wheel/tire assembly in place.
While its raised, I use a long 1/2" extension temporarily inserted from the right side to hold everything in place until the axle is inserted from the left side and passed through the spacers, caliper and hub.
Using this method eliminates raising and lowering of the jack and dinking with the tie-down straps.
It gets easier every time I do it.
I use a 2"x4", about 3' long, positioned over a 6" cylinder as a fulcrum. The one end of the 2"x4" has 2 pieces of 2"x2" nailed to it, to cradle the tire/wheel, helping to steady it while raising, by stepping on the other end of the 2"x4". This leaves me with both hands free and it does not take much effort to raise and hold the wheel/tire assembly in place.
While its raised, I use a long 1/2" extension temporarily inserted from the right side to hold everything in place until the axle is inserted from the left side and passed through the spacers, caliper and hub.
Using this method eliminates raising and lowering of the jack and dinking with the tie-down straps.
It gets easier every time I do it.
#23
05-25-2015, 05:01 PM
#24
05-25-2015, 05:14 PM
........... don't think I'd advise using the jack method - too great a risk of over balancing the bike. I use a J&S and manhandle the wheel into position after deflating the tire and smearing mechanic's soap to get by the caliper. If ur able, doing it this way provides for a safe way to control those small movements necessary to position the wheel to allow threading of the axle.
Could be that those women responsible for maintaining the air pressure in their significant others tires could be conditioned to perform this task as well IMO.
Could be that those women responsible for maintaining the air pressure in their significant others tires could be conditioned to perform this task as well IMO.
#25
05-25-2015, 06:00 PM
Not sure which "jack method" you are referencing. I use a certain color of bike jack for the bike and the floor jack for the wheel. I lock the bike jack w/ the safety thing and strap the bike front and rear, both sides. I also block the opposite wheel. That sucker is not falling on me.
I've surveyed jack mishaps on this forum. Folks reported crashes with every type of jack we commonly use. Most times the problem was due to not using the lock and the hydraulics faded. All other times there were no straps.
I've surveyed jack mishaps on this forum. Folks reported crashes with every type of jack we commonly use. Most times the problem was due to not using the lock and the hydraulics faded. All other times there were no straps.
Last edited by jefla; 05-25-2015 at 06:03 PM.
#26
05-25-2015, 06:09 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
I've looked in the manual, what shortcut? I'm trying to figure out how to keep aligned the left spacer, the wheel, the right spacer, as I lower the swingarm into position. The wheel bearing is recessed in the hub where the right side spacer goes. Meaning no clearance between the hub and the inside of the swingarm.
#27
05-25-2015, 06:18 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Does anyone sell a small lift that has a valve to bleed it down slow? The one I have and seen has the peddle and there's no way you can lower it slowly. It comes down either fast or drops it. That would make putting the rear back in alot easier than having to have a floor jack to lift it back up into it.
Last edited by TSheff; 05-25-2015 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Add pic
#28
05-26-2015, 07:02 AM
..............using a jack to lower the bike over the wheel. Those with experience use a variety of methods that work for them, they know the risks and avoid them. The problem is with rookies IMO. Their ignorance can doom them. Experience is gained through hard knocks IMO. Something 'read' is rarely as easy or as safe in practice.
#29
05-26-2015, 07:15 AM
#30
05-26-2015, 08:51 AM
My answer. I cut-up an old rear tire and bolted it to a floor jack. With bke on lift you put tire in place then roll tire onto jack by bending the carcas, turing it into a ramp. Carcas has a stop that's visible in pic. Carcas snaps back into shape and cups the tire. Super handy.
I love this idea! Quick...get a patent on it!