2007 Electra Glide Ultra Classic - stock


It is hard to start like it is struggling to turn the engine over. Battery voltage is 12.3 (engine off) and when running at idle voltage across battery is 13.6, and at 2000 RPM goes up to 13.9 So, looks to me like a good battery and good charging system but still struggles to turn the engine over. It labors but does start.


This looks like symptoms to a bigger problem that can leave me stranded. I ordered a new battery so that is on its way. Not sure that will really cure it. This just started in the last week.


Any ideas what could be wrong....or going wrong?


Thank you




JK

 

Sounds like your charging system works properly.

Original battery?

If so, change it.... it's 9 years old.

If not, you can take it to just about any auto parts chain and have it load tested.

 

you have a battery coming...so swap it out.

while you are doing this, check that the OTHER ends of the battery cables are clean and tight...any sign of corrosion under the insulation and replace the cable with a new one from autozone....$15

rotted cable:




mike

 

I should have mentioned; PO said he put in a new battery in April 2013 when I bought the bike from him. I do not know the quality of it. I leave it on a tender during layovers and between rides. I have put aver 10K miles since April 2013. I am expecting to take a trip next week so hope to get this resolved.

 

Check battery cables both ends for tightness also check cable end on starter. That being said an old battery can test good on voltage but not have the amps available to do the job. If a volt meter is all you have you can check voltage while actually starting. If it drops bellow 11 your battery is probably toast.

 

The predominant reason for early battery failure is lack of knowledge in battery preparation. Most folks just buy a battery off the shelf and install it, BIG mistake. An off the shelf battery, or battery that is bought with the electrolyte solution that must be added in has a current capacity of roughly 65-70% of its rated capacity. Installing the battery and starting the bike will guarantee to warp the lead plates and grossly shorten the battery's life, same with fast charging the battery. You MUST first slow charge the battery with a charger that will not output more than 10% of the battery's rated capacity, ie; a 10 amp battery should be charged at 1 amp max, a 100 amp battery should use a charger limited to 10 amps, etc. This should be done for 8 hours or more to gently bring up the battery to its rated capacity prior to installing or pulling current from it. Preparing a battery this way will guarantee you 5 years minimum of life, and usually longer. A good battery house knows to prep a battery this way before putting it into the customers hands. Ask your battery vendor before you buy how they prep their batteries, if they do not do a long, slow (low current) charge then do it yourself or shop elsewhere.

 

I think you answered your own question when you stated battery voltage was only 12.3 volts.Put your new battery in .

 

Take a reading of the battery voltage as you crank it over. 12.7 is around what it should be new after it sits. 12.3 is on the lower part of the scale & close to the end of it's usable life. My guess with the starter going it will drop below 10 volts & if you have a way to check CCA, that will be low also.

Toby

 

I had something along these lines (in my low Mileage 2011 FLHTK.).
In the end,turned out to be a bad Fuel Pump.
Replaced,problem fixed.
Just a suggestion.

 

Battery is shot! If its over two years old your on borrowed time, Batterys in touring bikes don't seem to last that long.