What is it about oil threads that just causes some guys' vaginas to ache? The same guys can read the 4000th thread about "can I put 12" pointy Batman looking bars on my bike & use the stock cables?" no problem, but just the word oil in a topic sets them off.

Who posts the most in oil threads? The guys who hate oil threads.

 

Good to know. I know theoretically you can switch between, dino and synthetic, and different brands, but I sometimes don't trust theory. I developed a bottom gasket leak which was probably just because the bike is 11 years old, but I didn't know if it was anything I did. I warm up the bike, although I have been told that isn't necessary either, if you just take it easy until operating temperature is reached.

 

You can put lipstick on a pig, its still a pig.

 

MOLYGRAPHITE® was the exception to the rule.
You could opt for this type of oil and use it by choice but had to open and rinse the engine (for ages) before going back to a mineral oil. It was considered good stuff in the 70's

 

My man-gina aches now, no thanks to you.

Your repeated use of the words "oil thread" is pissing me off to no end.

And I don't even have any pointy Batman looking bars.....so there.....

 

My "Johnny one better " neighbor is always telling me how his bike runs better with synthetic. Problem is, he's a horses ***. I run dino oil in mine, and have no complaints, I guess when I feel like spending more money, I will try synthetic and post a report. Then I will be the "oh not another oil thread" guy. LOL!

 

? Sounds like you're talking about the old Arco Graphite oil. There was nothing about that oil that called for washing the inside of the engine to return to conventional oils. Not in practice nor in written instructions. You were to just dump it in and use it, just as you would a conventional oil. Same with switching back.

 

wscott :

I have read all your posts on this thread and they are without merit or foundation in fact.

Your simple observations with one engine and use of two types of oil resulted in your many paragraphs of plan simple opinion.

My experience just with HD engines covers every current in production HD engine from the 750 in the Street to a 120R. That combined with riding them collectively 30K miles a year.

Not a single word that you posted is of any value for me to maintain them. Period.

Now have a nice day and go for a ride.

 

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You know its funny,all i had to do was post i ran a couple syn oils in my bike and then went to std dino which stopped the valve train noise the motor had when hot with both popular syn oils quite a few guys here use & you get bent out of shape here.

Thats all i said,was it a lrg involved test with pelnty of statical data backing it up,no.

But it doesnt take away from the fact its been mentioned here in this forum that in some cases thats what would happen going syn back to std dino and i simply posted with that in mind saying that did in fact happen with my bike so maybe someone eles with same issue could benefit from it and you get your undies all in a twist.

And JFYI,your not the only person here with any experience,i have over 4 decades under my belt wrenching bikes /cars/ classic muscle cars including rebuilding engines etc so i have a good solid mechanical background too.

I have been riding dirt bikes as a kid in mid 60'ds and have also been riding on the street every yr since 1971/44yrs so i have plenty of seat time on bikes on the road too and your not the only one here that has some experience.

Also,i have always had my eye on what going on and or changing when it comes to motor oil for cars & bikes esp over the past 8-10yrs when the anti wear agent /ZDDP/Zinc & phos was reduced to critical lvls for older ft cam'd motors and such which is something i have been researching for many yrs for another forum i belong to.

I consulted quite a few oil & chemical engineers at major oil mfg's and oil additive mfgs too that collectively together helped me gain a good understanding of what was going on in the oil world with todays oils sold over the counter and diff between pass car/truck vs motorcycle oil etc.

But point i mentioned that was simply to let you know i havent just posted opinion which doesnt mean much to most people,what i have posted is coming from that i have learned over the yrs from not only researching oil on my own but also from speaking and or consulting with the experts currently working the field .

And in this case here was simply something i tried out with syn vs std dino that truely got the result i posted in my bike & that was all i claimed , nothing more though your trying to make it look as though i making all sorts of unfounded claims when i wasn't.

I also never claimed anything else like it was a fix all for anyone with valve train noise either,it was just an example of 1 time that it did just that like had been talked about/posted here in this forum as maybe being the case which i actually confirmed as being true for myself with my bike,that was it.

And though your trying real hard nothing you can say can take away from that because its in fact what happened & the truth and wont hurt anyone's bike if they decide to try it like i did to see if std dino quiets or stops valvetrain noise if their bike is experiencing it especially when hot .

And you also have a nice day and go for a ride too!/LOL!


Scott

 

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You can switch from syn to syd dino to syn which theoretically shouldnt be an issue according to the oil & chemical engineers i consulted at mobil 1 ,amsoil,spectro oil,etc.

But there is a reason some people have all the sudden have issues going from std dino to syn oil with respect to current small leaks or weeping of oil suddenly getting worse or leaks seemingly appearing when there were none prior.

And that is much more of an issue with older motors with not as good gasket design and or not as rigid sealing surfaces like for ex stamped steel valve covers/timing covers/oil pans used 30-40 yrs ago vs todays motors with much more rigid cast AL valve covers/triming covers/oil pans that also have wider gasket sealing surfaces along with much improved gasket material & design that work just fine with syn oil used in many new cars.

But leaks seem to appear when going from std dino to syn oil for a reason a few of which are:

* Syn oil is made up of smaller molecules that are more evely stacked on a molecular lvl then std dino making the syn oil more slick too with thos 2 thing collectively together making it easier for the syn oil to pass by dried and or shrunken seals and gaskets especially on an older motor then would happen with std dino.

* Also,it has been stated here before the syn oil of same grade/visc as std dino seems to thin out a bit when hot which can lead to for example more top end valve train noise and or a bit lower oil pressure .

So thats another reason syn oil can more easily get past gaskets and seals that have dried and or shrunken some on an older motor.

* Lastly,in some cases some oil mfgs may have had considerably more detergent in a particular line of their syn oil's additive pkg like for ex trucks that see's a lot of dust & dirt then the std dino someone was running prior to going to that syn oil .

Then the syn oil with more detergent all the sudden starts to clean away sludge/dirt from inside of motor that was blocking oil from leaking past older dried and or shrunken gaskets and seals and thats when leaking can all the sudden appear when going from syd dino with less detergent to a syn oil that has a lot more detergent etc in it.

But the fact is syn oil doesnt cause the gaskets & or seals to go bad & start leaking,that cond already exists and its the different design of the syn oil that isnt always a good match or friendly to use in some motors at times esp older ones for reasons already stated above.

Hope this helps ans your question.

scott