Ok I think my compensator nut is either loose or I have a compensator going bad. I have a 2012 Ultra and it's been vibrating real bad with some noise in the primary area. It actually vibrates worse as the bike heats up and is very noticeable when I apply the brake. I think the brake thing is because it makes the bike a little more rigid. I notice it a lot when braking but also at idle and applying the brake. So I pulled the primary cover off and on surface things appear ok meaning nothing is broken in pieces inside. I used the tool between the sprockets to hold tight while I tried to loosen the crank bolt or compensator bolt. I noticed when I pulled on the ratchet that the springs in the compensator moved quite a bit ( 1/4 turn or so) then stopped. My question is this normal? I searched and watched videos but have not heard of nor seen this before. I'm a bit concerned about putting any torque on it while the springs are moving like that. Any help advise would be appreciated.

 

Vibrating when braking is likely your rotors, not related to the comp

 

I'd agree except the bike is vibrating at idle sitting still and then when the brake is applied the vibration gets even worse. That's why I thought it was caused by the bike becoming more rigid. It's definitely weird I'm also noticing an intermittent squeak that actually sounds like a belt chirp, which of course it can't be. But are the springs in the compensator supposed to do as described above?

 

The vibrations are going to be felt much more so when holding the brake. Your stopping the front wheel from rocking ever so slightly and all that vibration from the Twin Cam is traveling right up the forks into your hands and the rest of the bike.

2010 Limited with some stuff

 

If you're suggesting the spring cups are compressing, then, yes, they will compress a bit. In addition, the comp will rotate when torque is applied due to the ramp action of the unit.

FWIW, my 2012 Ultra had some play and noise in the comp. I replaced the stock comp with a new Baker comp kit and that seems to have addressed my issues.

To be fair, I have only about 100 miles on the new comp but noticed right away a difference...your results may be different.

 

When you apply torque to the bolt, you are doing exactly what the engine does to the compensator. That movement is the shock absorbing function at work. It would be nice if the factory published a tolerance for compensator travel such as: "Apply 100 pound feet of torque to the bolt and the compensator travel should not exceed 15 degrees." but to the best of my knowledge, no such spec exists.

 

The vibration, it's probably not your comp. If the surfaces look good and it doesn't fully rotate when you put a wrench on it your springs are probably good. Tighten that bolt though to be sure it's not loose.
It could be a host of other things though like:

Crank run-out, primary chain, trans main shaft, clutch hub, or more commonly, a tuning issue due to fuel pressure, injector(s), map sensor, intake leak, engine temp sensor, crank pos sensor, or even more common: spark plugs/wires or exhaust bound up or touching the frame.

I had an 09 that I fought with for two years trying to figure out a severe vibration. Changed nearly everything above. Gave up, sold it, dealer tuned it on a dyno, and it's as smooth as silk now. My luck...

 

I changed my compensator due to hot start noises. When I took it apart I was sceptical, as it looked ok, very little visible wear. I installed the new SE version and all my issues are gone. One thing I noticed right away was how much easier it is to find neutral now.

 

Thanks for the responses, I been so busy with work I haven't had the chance to do anything yet. But now I have some real world knowledge to at least attempt a diagnosis.

 

grab the clutch basket with both hands and turn it back and forth. if the basket turns the comp back and forth some without turning the engine than it wore out. this will also give you the slack in the power train you feel when you are on and off the gas sepecially in higher gears.