I have an '05 Road King Classic running V&H propipe, S&S 510 cams & gear drive conversion, stock breather, and DFO for tuning. I have a couple things. 1. I am having a "stutter" at low rpm's, and speeds below 40mph riding on suburb streets . As expected with a cam as such. I had a fuel pack on it but couldn't smooth it out, so dfo helped a bunch.
2. When I pull in the clutch to coast up to a stop light my rpm's drop and have an occasional stall out, not a biggie just embarissing, and performance problems for the bike?
Thanks in advance JW

 

Dfo is rebranded dobeck. Had one on my '09 when I got it. Terrible piece. Get a proper flash tuner and tune.

 

Might want to get rid of that stock breather too.

 

DFO works better than the PcIII with my set up. I've been running stock plugs, probably going to try SE to see if that burns better. Any recommendation on breathers? It's been running lean. So I'm tweaking things a little today. I had it dynoed 2 years ago with PCIII installed. It ran like a beast at high rpm. But ran like **** and stalled when holding the clutch in coasting to a light. DFO helped, but still feels light in low rpm/speed. Is this mostly a cam thing, and amother minor glitch

 

Also would the HD download help any of this. I have the PC still, if I want to need to reinstall.

 

NO! on the download. PCIII is better than DFO but it needs to be tuned properly. If ya had it dyno tuned and it wasn't right it is on you for not taking it back and getting it right or a refund. Lots of flacky dyno guys out there. TTS/PV would be my choice if ya go for a different unit.

 

I have an 04 road king/glide that about once per year decides to start stalling whenever i pull the clutch in.

Every year when it starts this crap, i take the temp sensor out of the front head and i screw the temp sensor into a block of metal, with a thermoprobe in the block and an analog ohmmeter connected to the sensor, and use a small butane torch to heat the sensor from cold to hot, watching the ohmmeter for dips or spikes, confirm it's max reading is correct, then watch it cool back down slowly. Often it will hiccup either cooling or heating, but not both.

cost anywhere from 25 to 40 bucks depending on where you buy. Ive replaced 5 in the 11 years ive owned the bike.

Once i replace the sensor, the bike stops stalling when the clutch is pulled in. The sensor causes the mixture to go over rich and when engine rpm drops, it stalls

My thoughts

 

I didn't care for the tuners response when he told me about the hickup it still had. He has a life of the bike guarantee if equipment is the same. It's a haul to get there now. The shop I WAS using mostly did carbed bikes. Apparently I didn't get cams that match up well with the Propipe. I just changed out the crank position sensor this week after running diagnostics and the way the bike was running. I picked up a new air filter, and battery. Battery was over due. Pipes are nearing a change. I'm wanting to go to true duals long and straight. It'll suffer some performance but I'm ok with that, I think.