Inherited a '98 Ultra
#11
06-29-2015, 06:53 PM
Cruiser
#12
06-29-2015, 11:25 PM
Sorry for your loss.
The following is for a 1998 road king classic (same frame).
It is the last year for the EVO motor on the touring bike.
That is a very reliable motor.
That model had M & M fuel injection. An Italian company that makes many fuel injection systems from expensive sport cars to trucks. It was used on touring bikes from about 1995 to 2001.
You have after market pipes (slip-on mufflers).
The lights look like they have some kind of trim rings added.
The foot brake looks like it might be an extend version for a taller rider?
The air filter looks like it might have a cover? What is inside the cover?
Heat deflectors under the seat?
Frame neck chrome cover.
The timer cone V2 cover looks original (right foot/circle with V2) *important for later reading.
1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .
The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.
2-I do not believe this happens on your fairing speedometer..This is for tank speedometers.. COMMON..The TANK speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. Requires cutting about 12 wires. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. A retrofit kit is available to make it plug and play but you still need to cut about 12 wires.
It is a different manufacturer from the newer ones. Again, that was for gas tank mounted speedometers like a road king or heritage as i do not think the fairing bikes had such a problem..
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot/ look at the circle with V2) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…look for goo...You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare...You have after market pipes so you probably have some fuel adder someplace.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…I have studied this situation and it seems like a cheap resistor with 150 ohm rating could have its leads pushed into the connector plug ends in order to trick the bike into thinking it was warm (emergency bypass)...bad sensor causes big swings from surge to idle.
7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both...These will break when you are far from home requiring you to use your shoelace to tie it together.. if not changed...You have been warned..
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CAM POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it or changing to carb when it was only loose...people say sure, whatever, thank you but rarely look until they get dumped.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.
I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley for about $50 99483-98 . Finally if you get the book..if you do not get the book then i wish you luck in finding someone with knowledge..just get the book and read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.
I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.
Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.
Caution: you need and EVO oil filter and not a twin cam oil filter.
Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.
Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt. Most folks do not check until it is too late.
There is a small "L" looking piece at rear cylinder exhaust pipe flange near cylinder head. That "L" bracket attaches rear exhaust pipe to the triangle metal support of transmission.
That "L" piece sometimes breaks at the bend of that 1 inch part.
The M & M fuel injection system is a simple system and is considered reliable. The problem is that folks (to include techs) do not want to read the 1 chapter in the service book.
More than 1 person has ripped-out a functional system just because the crank sensor connector was loose, the temp sensor went bad or something like a simple sensor gave-up the ghost.
That bike looks well maintained.
The following is for a 1998 road king classic (same frame).
It is the last year for the EVO motor on the touring bike.
That is a very reliable motor.
That model had M & M fuel injection. An Italian company that makes many fuel injection systems from expensive sport cars to trucks. It was used on touring bikes from about 1995 to 2001.
You have after market pipes (slip-on mufflers).
The lights look like they have some kind of trim rings added.
The foot brake looks like it might be an extend version for a taller rider?
The air filter looks like it might have a cover? What is inside the cover?
Heat deflectors under the seat?
Frame neck chrome cover.
The timer cone V2 cover looks original (right foot/circle with V2) *important for later reading.
1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .
The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.
2-I do not believe this happens on your fairing speedometer..This is for tank speedometers.. COMMON..The TANK speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. Requires cutting about 12 wires. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. A retrofit kit is available to make it plug and play but you still need to cut about 12 wires.
It is a different manufacturer from the newer ones. Again, that was for gas tank mounted speedometers like a road king or heritage as i do not think the fairing bikes had such a problem..
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot/ look at the circle with V2) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…look for goo...You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare...You have after market pipes so you probably have some fuel adder someplace.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…I have studied this situation and it seems like a cheap resistor with 150 ohm rating could have its leads pushed into the connector plug ends in order to trick the bike into thinking it was warm (emergency bypass)...bad sensor causes big swings from surge to idle.
7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both...These will break when you are far from home requiring you to use your shoelace to tie it together.. if not changed...You have been warned..
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CAM POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it or changing to carb when it was only loose...people say sure, whatever, thank you but rarely look until they get dumped.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.
I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley for about $50 99483-98 . Finally if you get the book..if you do not get the book then i wish you luck in finding someone with knowledge..just get the book and read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.
I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.
Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.
Caution: you need and EVO oil filter and not a twin cam oil filter.
Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.
Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt. Most folks do not check until it is too late.
There is a small "L" looking piece at rear cylinder exhaust pipe flange near cylinder head. That "L" bracket attaches rear exhaust pipe to the triangle metal support of transmission.
That "L" piece sometimes breaks at the bend of that 1 inch part.
The M & M fuel injection system is a simple system and is considered reliable. The problem is that folks (to include techs) do not want to read the 1 chapter in the service book.
More than 1 person has ripped-out a functional system just because the crank sensor connector was loose, the temp sensor went bad or something like a simple sensor gave-up the ghost.
That bike looks well maintained.
#13
07-04-2015, 01:47 PM
Sorry for your loss.
The following is for a 1998 road king classic (same frame).
It is the last year for the EVO motor on the touring bike.
That is a very reliable motor.
That model had M & M fuel injection. An Italian company that makes many fuel injection systems from expensive sport cars to trucks. It was used on touring bikes from about 1995 to 2001.
You have after market pipes (slip-on mufflers).
The lights look like they have some kind of trim rings added.
The foot brake looks like it might be an extend version for a taller rider?
The air filter looks like it might have a cover? What is inside the cover?
Heat deflectors under the seat?
Frame neck chrome cover.
The timer cone V2 cover looks original (right foot/circle with V2) *important for later reading.
1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .
The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.
2-I do not believe this happens on your fairing speedometer..This is for tank speedometers.. COMMON..The TANK speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. Requires cutting about 12 wires. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. A retrofit kit is available to make it plug and play but you still need to cut about 12 wires.
It is a different manufacturer from the newer ones. Again, that was for gas tank mounted speedometers like a road king or heritage as i do not think the fairing bikes had such a problem..
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot/ look at the circle with V2) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…look for goo...You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare...You have after market pipes so you probably have some fuel adder someplace.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…I have studied this situation and it seems like a cheap resistor with 150 ohm rating could have its leads pushed into the connector plug ends in order to trick the bike into thinking it was warm (emergency bypass)...bad sensor causes big swings from surge to idle.
7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both...These will break when you are far from home requiring you to use your shoelace to tie it together.. if not changed...You have been warned..
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CAM POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it or changing to carb when it was only loose...people say sure, whatever, thank you but rarely look until they get dumped.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.
I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley for about $50 99483-98 . Finally if you get the book..if you do not get the book then i wish you luck in finding someone with knowledge..just get the book and read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.
I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.
Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.
Caution: you need and EVO oil filter and not a twin cam oil filter.
Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.
Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt. Most folks do not check until it is too late.
There is a small "L" looking piece at rear cylinder exhaust pipe flange near cylinder head. That "L" bracket attaches rear exhaust pipe to the triangle metal support of transmission.
That "L" piece sometimes breaks at the bend of that 1 inch part.
The M & M fuel injection system is a simple system and is considered reliable. The problem is that folks (to include techs) do not want to read the 1 chapter in the service book.
More than 1 person has ripped-out a functional system just because the crank sensor connector was loose, the temp sensor went bad or something like a simple sensor gave-up the ghost.
That bike looks well maintained.
The following is for a 1998 road king classic (same frame).
It is the last year for the EVO motor on the touring bike.
That is a very reliable motor.
That model had M & M fuel injection. An Italian company that makes many fuel injection systems from expensive sport cars to trucks. It was used on touring bikes from about 1995 to 2001.
You have after market pipes (slip-on mufflers).
The lights look like they have some kind of trim rings added.
The foot brake looks like it might be an extend version for a taller rider?
The air filter looks like it might have a cover? What is inside the cover?
Heat deflectors under the seat?
Frame neck chrome cover.
The timer cone V2 cover looks original (right foot/circle with V2) *important for later reading.
1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .
The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.
2-I do not believe this happens on your fairing speedometer..This is for tank speedometers.. COMMON..The TANK speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. Requires cutting about 12 wires. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. A retrofit kit is available to make it plug and play but you still need to cut about 12 wires.
It is a different manufacturer from the newer ones. Again, that was for gas tank mounted speedometers like a road king or heritage as i do not think the fairing bikes had such a problem..
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot/ look at the circle with V2) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…look for goo...You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare...You have after market pipes so you probably have some fuel adder someplace.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…I have studied this situation and it seems like a cheap resistor with 150 ohm rating could have its leads pushed into the connector plug ends in order to trick the bike into thinking it was warm (emergency bypass)...bad sensor causes big swings from surge to idle.
7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both...These will break when you are far from home requiring you to use your shoelace to tie it together.. if not changed...You have been warned..
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CAM POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it or changing to carb when it was only loose...people say sure, whatever, thank you but rarely look until they get dumped.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.
I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley for about $50 99483-98 . Finally if you get the book..if you do not get the book then i wish you luck in finding someone with knowledge..just get the book and read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.
I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.
Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.
Caution: you need and EVO oil filter and not a twin cam oil filter.
Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.
Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt. Most folks do not check until it is too late.
There is a small "L" looking piece at rear cylinder exhaust pipe flange near cylinder head. That "L" bracket attaches rear exhaust pipe to the triangle metal support of transmission.
That "L" piece sometimes breaks at the bend of that 1 inch part.
The M & M fuel injection system is a simple system and is considered reliable. The problem is that folks (to include techs) do not want to read the 1 chapter in the service book.
More than 1 person has ripped-out a functional system just because the crank sensor connector was loose, the temp sensor went bad or something like a simple sensor gave-up the ghost.
That bike looks well maintained.
#14
07-04-2015, 02:49 PM
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