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Drive Belt- What Brand?

  #11  
Old 07-03-2015, 05:46 AM
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Real question is how did you come to need a replacement belt on a 2011?
Have put 80K on factory belts . Even my 1996 Fb has the factory belt still on it.
 
  #12  
Old 07-03-2015, 06:21 AM
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Replaced mine at 100,000 it still looked like new. Only replaced it because I was chainging the transmission gear to get rid of the shitty 08 gearing. Keep good belt tension and the OEM belts go a long way
 
  #13  
Old 07-03-2015, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Duracell
Replaced mine at 100,000 it still looked like new. Only replaced it because I was chainging the transmission gear to get rid of the shitty 08 gearing. Keep good belt tension and the OEM belts go a long way
I am replacing my belt on my '06 FLHTCI after 10 years and 69K miles. If you were to look in the service manual for what to look for when inspecting the belt, my belt has the Pac Man condition where the teeth are torn across the base of the nub. My dealer wanted $222.00 for an OEM belt. I got an OEM belt from Horny Toad HD for $177.00 shipped.
 
  #14  
Old 07-03-2015, 09:21 AM
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Buddy I was riding with lost a belt in the hotel parking lot just dropping into 1st gear. Looking at the belt you could see right were a stone was shoved clear through the belt. Made a 3/8" hole pretty close to center. Little nicks in the pull too. Pays to inspect them every so often .
Originally Posted by soos
I am replacing my belt on my '06 FLHTCI after 10 years and 69K miles. If you were to look in the service manual for what to look for when inspecting the belt, my belt has the Pac Man condition where the teeth are torn across the base of the nub. My dealer wanted $222.00 for an OEM belt. I got an OEM belt from Horny Toad HD for $177.00 shipped.
 
  #15  
Old 07-03-2015, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Flintshooter54
Buddy I was riding with lost a belt in the hotel parking lot just dropping into 1st gear. Looking at the belt you could see right were a stone was shoved clear through the belt. Made a 3/8" hole pretty close to center. Little nicks in the pull too. Pays to inspect them every so often .
All too often we overlook one of the most essential parts of our scoots for wear and tear. I found my defect while fixing a shift shaft seal which allowed one of the best views of the drive belt. Bet your *** I will be paying a little bit more attention to my new belt after I install it.
 
  #16  
Old 07-03-2015, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by KCFLHRC
Since Harley isn't in the rubber business my guess is Gates probably makes them, so lose the Harley mark up and get Gates. $127 here

http://www.leatherup.com/p/Cruiser-M...FZKRHwod6HIAAw

I'm thinking someone better check their specs before ordering that belt. Here's what it says:

"Note: 1in. and 1-1/8in. belts are designed for show and not intended to replace factory O.E.M. belt. No manufacturer’s warranty claims are made or implied. Not to be used in lieu of 1-1/2in. wide belt."
 
  #17  
Old 07-03-2015, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MNPGRider
I'm thinking someone better check their specs before ordering that belt. Here's what it says:

"Note: 1in. and 1-1/8in. belts are designed for show and not intended to replace factory O.E.M. belt. No manufacturer’s warranty claims are made or implied. Not to be used in lieu of 1-1/2in. wide belt."
That's the Falcon SPC disclaimer only. Not Gates or OEM.

I have the Falcon (32,000 miles now,) but it's the 1 1/2" early style for '97 to '03. The newer bikes can't run that wide belt (skinny pulleys now,) so most Harleys do run 1" and 1 1/8" belts from the factory.
 

Last edited by Stiggy; 07-03-2015 at 01:41 PM.
  #18  
Old 07-03-2015, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Real question is how did you come to need a replacement belt on a 2011?
Have put 80K on factory belts . Even my 1996 Fb has the factory belt still on it.
Dumped my new air ride for the first time after a ride with a loose belt and the exhaust burned it.

Should I also change the inner primary bearing while I'm in it with an OEM bearing?
 
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