the "tender" is meant to "tend" to a charged battery...it has maybe 500mA ( 1/2 an amp) capacity




a battery "charger" charges a battery and a good amp rate is 5 to 7 for your battery.
overnight or better

the idea is to fully charge the battery then load test at autozone- it;s free


tender tends/charger charges

I have posted before on my neighbor who assumed he knew what his problem was and the dealership who did work up to $1300 mostly based on his direction.
In the end we found a bad battery cable...$15 fix
diagnosis is key to a correct repair

mike

 

Ripsaw, I did the crude crank test as you indicated, volts dropped to 9.6v. With the engine running, and at 2000 rpm, again volts were 14.6v

 

Is the battery still under warranty?
If so, react accordingly.

 

Check ALL ground cables and ALL ground points to frame also.
If that battery is only one year old, somethings not right within the charging system, or it has been left in a state of uncharged condition for way to long.

Like mkguitar said, "diagnosis is key to correct repair"............

 

Put it on the maintenance charger for three or so days straight. Then pull it and load test it. They really need to know what amp to check it out and if it's not on battery, no telling what it shows. However, be forewarned, most machines that do that in my area are junk. At 9.6 Volts , it way down on cranking amps. Any lower will usually result in a grunt, slow crank and as engine fires helping it start (if you are lucky)

my blue flame stove bolt (motor and 3 speed transmission out of a 51 car but I still have the 47 and 4 speed)...HA

 

Fully charged battery according to Napa Auto Parts, they advised to replace battery, same thing at Auto Zone!

 

Batteries usually fail in the heat of the summer or in the dead of the winter.
Keep it on a tender when long periods of time are anticipated.
I had a battery on an Iron Sportster that lasted 6+ years by using this method.

 

==================

Just wondering how old the battery is and what the mfg is ,HD?

If you want to save approx $75-80 and get the same type AGM maint free factory activated replacement battery that HD sells that proven to be a reliable long lasting battery then check out the links below.

Scott

http://www.tristatebattery.com/etx30...ery-p-982.html

http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...L-Battery.html

 

just for the heck of it check the bolts that hold the starter on.The starter makes the ground circuit. If the starter is a little loose the ground will not be good

 

"I then shut the engine off, two minutes later, she wouldn't crank?? I'm thinking time for new battery. Thanks to all whom responded!"


This scenario could be a number of things depending upon what is meant by "wouldn't crank".
If it means it doesn't turn over at all, as in just sits there dead silent, it could be the solenoid points not making to the starter motor itself.
This occasionally happens with my '07 RKC and I have a piece of wooden handle from a hammer that I tap the solenoid with while pushing the button.
The first time this happened to me, I proceeded to take things apart, fuses,switches,etc... and found nothing wrong, I smacked the solenoid with a screw driver handle and tried it and voila, she cranked over and started.
It hasn't happened in a long time, but I somewhat am used to the idea of it coming back to haunt the old '07, hence the carrying of the baton.

Now if it means it turns over,slowly,,, and won't start as in fire up, that more than likely is the battery giving up the ghost.
Might have a bad cell or two, or plates are just over sulphated and it needs to be changed.

Remember how the old cars with a dying battery would give the tell tale chatter of the solenoid and all it took was a guy that knew how to jumper across the points to the starter and get himself and his girl home before midnight.....L O L