Messed up my 106 motor
#11
#12
Chances are though if you were blowing oil from the front head out thru the exhaust I would venture to say it could be terminal.
#13
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Western South Dakota
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#14
Thank you for all the replies, condolences, ideas and suggestions.
I'm off next week as well and I will (assuming it's a rubber hose that started all this) I'll replace the hose and fill her up with oil and see what happens and report back. I think I'll pull the plugs and see if the front one is loaded with oil since that exhaust pipe is loaded with oil. I'll report back.
I'm off next week as well and I will (assuming it's a rubber hose that started all this) I'll replace the hose and fill her up with oil and see what happens and report back. I think I'll pull the plugs and see if the front one is loaded with oil since that exhaust pipe is loaded with oil. I'll report back.
#15
Man I know how bad this sucks, had my S&S 106 go out a month before the moving trucks came to ship my stuff from La to NC. And right before our year long planned three week road trip.
Due to time it would have took to get my crank trued and welded I just had the 120R put in and I was back on the road in a week getting broke in. Was able to get my finally dyno tune just before our road trip.
My 106 is still in a crate in my garage, someday I'll get the cranked fixed. I hate having all those performance parts just sitting there, wood-555 cams/ Vee twin stage II heads/ SE billet cam plate/woods lifters/woods push rods and the S&S jugs and pistons with less than 1000 miles on it.
Hopefully your fix will be easier than you expect!
Due to time it would have took to get my crank trued and welded I just had the 120R put in and I was back on the road in a week getting broke in. Was able to get my finally dyno tune just before our road trip.
My 106 is still in a crate in my garage, someday I'll get the cranked fixed. I hate having all those performance parts just sitting there, wood-555 cams/ Vee twin stage II heads/ SE billet cam plate/woods lifters/woods push rods and the S&S jugs and pistons with less than 1000 miles on it.
Hopefully your fix will be easier than you expect!
#16
Man I know how bad this sucks, had my S&S 106 go out a month before the moving trucks came to ship my stuff from La to NC. And right before our year long planned three week road trip.
Due to time it would have took to get my crank trued and welded I just had the 120R put in and I was back on the road in a week getting broke in. Was able to get my finally dyno tune just before our road trip.
My 106 is still in a crate in my garage, someday I'll get the cranked fixed. I hate having all those performance parts just sitting there, wood-555 cams/ Vee twin stage II heads/ SE billet cam plate/woods lifters/woods push rods and the S&S jugs and pistons with less than 1000 miles on it.
Hopefully your fix will be easier than you expect!
Due to time it would have took to get my crank trued and welded I just had the 120R put in and I was back on the road in a week getting broke in. Was able to get my finally dyno tune just before our road trip.
My 106 is still in a crate in my garage, someday I'll get the cranked fixed. I hate having all those performance parts just sitting there, wood-555 cams/ Vee twin stage II heads/ SE billet cam plate/woods lifters/woods push rods and the S&S jugs and pistons with less than 1000 miles on it.
Hopefully your fix will be easier than you expect!
Is it hot to trot right out of the box or did you have to do stuff to it to wake it up?
#17
I have about 30'000 miles on it and love it. Last year a bad lifter grenaded my cam chest at about 25'000, so in replacing the parts I put in Tman cams/ push rods and S&S lifters. All stuff I had planned to do anyways so it wasn't an issue for me.
You will need a free flowing exhaust and 58mm throttle body and intake as well as the 5.3 injectors.
The S&S 124 is another great option if you want to go big but I didn't have the time or business local that could get it and install it in time so I went with the 120R, no regrets here.
You will need a free flowing exhaust and 58mm throttle body and intake as well as the 5.3 injectors.
The S&S 124 is another great option if you want to go big but I didn't have the time or business local that could get it and install it in time so I went with the 120R, no regrets here.
#19
Update
Update:
I took off the rubber oil lines from my trick oil filter relocation kit. There were several rubs in both the in and out line but one of these lines was rubbed through and opened. Photo attached. I bought new hoses and replaced both of them being really careful not to make the same mistakes routing them and allowing them to chaff like the last ones did.
I then opened up the K&D reusable filter and was pleased to find not a single chip, shaving, or even glimmer of anything coming apart. That was surprising to see. I then filled her back up with oil but before seeing if she would start and maintain oil pressure I pulled the front cylinder plug expecting to see all kinds of oil on that jugs plug because that jugs exhaust pipe tip only was Soaked wet with oil. But not the other.
I pull both plugs and find nothing unusual...?????????
So far so good. No metal shavings in the filter, no oil on the plug, then how come I got oil looking as if the one side exhaust puked oil. I "think" since I run a scalloped tip which scallops from the top downward, and the oil hose blew on that same side of the bike, that the scalloped tip captured a lot of the oil as the 4 qts were blowing out that side of the bike. This made it appear to me that the left side pipe had puked oil but it really didn't.
I installed two new plugs anyway.
Then it was time to fire her up. This part I dreaded.
Would it crank? Was it seized? Could it hold oil pressure?
Here goes....
She fired right up but the oil needed time to circulate since it had no oil in it at all.
It idled up and down for 30 seconds and then I could tell that the much needed oil had made its way around inside the engine.
I shut it off and fired it back up about 30 seconds later. I gave it a few revs and she sounded normal and the oil pressure gauges (I have 2) were right where they normally are at start up. Somewhere around 32 psi.
The only other thing I need to do is de-oil this bike. There is 4 qts of oil blown all over everything including the rear tire area, pipes, bags, fender, up under everything etc.
Tomorrow I will wash her with dishwashing liquid and try to get all that oil out from places it shouldn't be in. The last step will be for me to road test her and see if she rides as I remember. Not blowing any smoke, running rough under power etc.
I "think" I may have dodged a bullet here. I do worry about possible internal bearing damages that could rear their head later on so I'm probably going to change my oil every 1000 miles for 3-4 times just to make sure I don't see anything coming apart.
If anyone has a good oil analysis suggestion I may even do that just to make sure.
I know the oil pressure gauge was reading zero while I ran her another 3 minutes or so at 80 mph while looking for a place to pull over on interstate 78. I know that for a fact. I just don't know if I damaged anything. So far though I'm hopefull this did not turn out to be a definite engine swap needed. Wish me luck and thanks for the replies.
I took off the rubber oil lines from my trick oil filter relocation kit. There were several rubs in both the in and out line but one of these lines was rubbed through and opened. Photo attached. I bought new hoses and replaced both of them being really careful not to make the same mistakes routing them and allowing them to chaff like the last ones did.
I then opened up the K&D reusable filter and was pleased to find not a single chip, shaving, or even glimmer of anything coming apart. That was surprising to see. I then filled her back up with oil but before seeing if she would start and maintain oil pressure I pulled the front cylinder plug expecting to see all kinds of oil on that jugs plug because that jugs exhaust pipe tip only was Soaked wet with oil. But not the other.
I pull both plugs and find nothing unusual...?????????
So far so good. No metal shavings in the filter, no oil on the plug, then how come I got oil looking as if the one side exhaust puked oil. I "think" since I run a scalloped tip which scallops from the top downward, and the oil hose blew on that same side of the bike, that the scalloped tip captured a lot of the oil as the 4 qts were blowing out that side of the bike. This made it appear to me that the left side pipe had puked oil but it really didn't.
I installed two new plugs anyway.
Then it was time to fire her up. This part I dreaded.
Would it crank? Was it seized? Could it hold oil pressure?
Here goes....
She fired right up but the oil needed time to circulate since it had no oil in it at all.
It idled up and down for 30 seconds and then I could tell that the much needed oil had made its way around inside the engine.
I shut it off and fired it back up about 30 seconds later. I gave it a few revs and she sounded normal and the oil pressure gauges (I have 2) were right where they normally are at start up. Somewhere around 32 psi.
The only other thing I need to do is de-oil this bike. There is 4 qts of oil blown all over everything including the rear tire area, pipes, bags, fender, up under everything etc.
Tomorrow I will wash her with dishwashing liquid and try to get all that oil out from places it shouldn't be in. The last step will be for me to road test her and see if she rides as I remember. Not blowing any smoke, running rough under power etc.
I "think" I may have dodged a bullet here. I do worry about possible internal bearing damages that could rear their head later on so I'm probably going to change my oil every 1000 miles for 3-4 times just to make sure I don't see anything coming apart.
If anyone has a good oil analysis suggestion I may even do that just to make sure.
I know the oil pressure gauge was reading zero while I ran her another 3 minutes or so at 80 mph while looking for a place to pull over on interstate 78. I know that for a fact. I just don't know if I damaged anything. So far though I'm hopefull this did not turn out to be a definite engine swap needed. Wish me luck and thanks for the replies.
#20
Oil line photo
Obviously I have no idea how to attach multiple photos.
This should be the oil line that rubbed a hole in itself. This was near where the oil line swooped up toward the oil adaptor by the stock location where the oil filter should go.
I should have been much more conscious about area that were rubbing on the engine case.
My bad. Almost cost me an engine.
This should be the oil line that rubbed a hole in itself. This was near where the oil line swooped up toward the oil adaptor by the stock location where the oil filter should go.
I should have been much more conscious about area that were rubbing on the engine case.
My bad. Almost cost me an engine.