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Hard to start cold roadking

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Old 08-31-2015, 09:04 PM
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Default Hard to start cold roadking

All of a sudden after 14 years, my road king takes several seconds of cranking to start, which it had never done before, never practically instant start, hot or cold after it starts restarting is fine?
Anyone got a suggestions? I cleaned the Idle speed control actuator assy, which had a lot of dirt build up after 14 years. Also check the spark an changed plugs!
Looks like a fuel problem or not enough fuel starting. Runs fine an no engine codes set.
Thank
David
 
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:19 PM
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I would suspect the fuel filter, ( part number 61001-01 - Fuel Filter Kit ) if it hasn't been serviced in several years.
 
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:34 PM
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The fuel filter is the relatively inexpensive item to try. If that doesn't improve things, you may need a fuel pump. Try priming twice before starting and see if that helps. That will confirm a fuel problem, either filter or pump if it starts more easily after priming twice.
 
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:50 AM
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I went through that over the last 2 years and did the simple stuff first . then i went on to sink the lifters a couple more turns ,some improvement but not it, then I put a new starter clutch in and this made a huge improvement. another thing is between the amp and fans bike may sit on the drained side sometime so got in the habit of trickle charging. try that
 
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cdavidj
All of a sudden after 14 years, my road king takes several seconds of cranking to start, which it had never done before, never practically instant start, hot or cold after it starts restarting is fine?
Anyone got a suggestions? I cleaned the Idle speed control actuator assy, which had a lot of dirt build up after 14 years. Also check the spark an changed plugs!
Looks like a fuel problem or not enough fuel starting. Runs fine an no engine codes set.
Thank
David
========================

Simple things first before getting into deeper EFI/elec f-pump diagnostics & replacing fule filter thats in the tanks and hard to deal with check & or do these things first.

Even though it seems to run decent once it starts with the new plugs with bike being 14yrs old you should also change the plugs wires that are well past their srvc life for optimal perf too.

Then since you mentioned cleaning IAC its EFI your deling with so when was the last time (if ever0 that ran a good hvy dty injector cleaner thru the motor because dirty injectors can add to staring issues too.

So if you have already done so run a healthy dose of chevron Techron (concentrated version stated on front label) of 1.5-1.75 oz per gal fuel in a fresh tank of fuel and run that tank of treated fuel the motor ALONG WITH REPLACING THE 14+ YR OLD PLUG WIRES TOO to see if that helps.

Another thought is if you have a battery thats getting a little tired that when cranking at same time the elec f-pump having to pressurize EFI and fire ign etc that little tired battery could have trouble having the additional amps/volts to fully properly power the f-pump and ign to fire plugs too.

So you should also have the battery properly load tested to what its cond is no matter what its age is because even a new or almost new battery can .have issues being the 1 in 1,000 that are defective being low on power/cranking amps when needed most firing up to power starter, elec f-pump along ign system too all at the same time.

Somewhat tired starter can complicate matters more because it could require more amps/volts to spin motor over leaving less amps/volts left to fully / properly power ign & elec f-pump thats also an issue with a somewhat tired battery that may be a bit low on cranking amps / volts.

A test for that and or weak battery would be to fully charge the battery and test to ensure you have a 12.7 volts to show battery is fully charged and holding a full 12.7volts.

Thats not a proper load test but at least shows the battery can hold 12.7 volts and if thats the case seeing 12.7v @ battery then try to fire bike up with battery feshly off charger when its got it max power and if bike starts faster that shows either battery or starter or maybe boght are a bit tired not working up to 95-1005 efficiency resulting in slower starts.

But if battery doesnt show 12.7volts post charging then it need replacement and go from to see if a new battery helps speed up starting.

If you find you need a battery here are some some quality fact act maint free agm batteries at good prices that are an upgrade vs stock repl battery that are more powerful.

Stock HD repl fact act mant free AGM battery is 385cca at a whopping $180+.

These same type maint free fact activated agm batteries are higher output @ 400cca , 500cca & 600cca at $20 , $70 to as much as $100 less for a quality Deka (or mfg by deka under diff label) 400cca AGM battery then hd's lower output repl battery.


See below links for details.



Scott


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deka-ETX30L-...item1c573cfe0f


http://powersportbatteries.com/more-...nk-etx30l.html



http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...L-Battery.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121429861963



scott
 

Last edited by wscott; 09-01-2015 at 11:25 AM.
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