I've had my 09 SG since new. I have always had it serviced at a HD dealer. 40K miles later I'm finally deciding to try my had at doing my own service. I've been going back and forth with what oil to go with (dino, Syn3, redline, amsoil) I've decided to go with Amsoil. My question is I've noticed with the Syn3 it goes in all three holes. On the Amsoil website it lists their 20w-50 Syn for all 3 holes or a separate engine, primary and trans fluid. Is it better to go with the "one in all" or the 3 separates in three holes. I had a 103 stage IV done a few months ago and right now its got standard HD dino in it. Thanks in advance.

 

To use the technology oil Mfg's have developed over the years I suggest the specific oil type for each mechanical device.

My list of oils:
Shaeffers 20-50 V-Twin for the motor
HD Primary + for the primary
Redline Shock Proof V-Twin in the transmission

Or K.I.S.S and use the same for all holes. Your choice.

 

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I rec using oil that's specifically mfg'd & formulated for app its being used in like motorcycle oil in motorcycle motor,primary oil in prim case,6 trans oil in hd's 6spd trans.

I have an 09 EGUC/FLHTCU and have tried mult mfgs oil in all its 3 holes and Spectro oil is what i have decided to stay with because it has proven to perf well in my bike.

Spectro thas been a leader in mfg race/perf oil for motorcycles for if i am not mistaken approx 60yrs & know what they are doing when it comes to bike oil.

Heres the info and links to the proper spectro oils for you bike that i run.

Scott

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http://performanceoilstore.com/products.asp?cat=65&pg=3


Spectro Heavy Duty Engine Oil 20w50 1-qt
Spectro Heavy Duty Engine Oil 20w50 1-qt. Enter quantity of 12 for case discount. A superior motor lubricant designed specifically for use in American-made Harley® V-Twin engines. Crafted from superior petroleum stocks combined with the most advanced anti-wear, anti-carbon additive systems available, Spectro Heavy Duty extends component life, reduces wear, eliminates valve sticking. Meets all known OEM warranty requirements. Exceeds A.P.I. SF/SG – CD/CG - 4.
List Price: $8.66
Price: $6.65

http://www.spectroshop.com/heavy-dut...0/prod_24.html

Product Information
Heavy Duty Golden Semi-Synthetic
Heavy Duty Golden Semi-Synthetic is the ultimate Semi-synthetic blended engine lubricant designed specifically for use in Harley® V-Twin engines. Our proprietary combination of world class Group IV synthetic lubricants, superior base stocks and advanced anti-wear additives provides lower consumption rates, extends component life, reduces wear. A.P.I. SF/SG – CD/CG - 4.
Be the first to review this product!
Price: $12.75


http://performanceoilstore.com/products.asp?cat=65&pg=4

Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum Full Synthetic 20w50 1-qt
Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum Full Synthetic 20w50 1-qt. Enter quantity of 12 for case discount. Engineered specifically for Harley Davidson® high-performance engines and other high-output V-Twin motors. Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum Full Synthetic provides smoother shifting, reduces friction, offers tremendous lubrication and provides superior protection in extreme heat conditions. A.P.I. SF/SG – CD/CG - 4.
List Price: $15.00
Price: $10.95


http://performanceoilstore.com/products.asp?cat=65&pg=4






Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6-speed Transmission Oil 1-qt
Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6-speed Transmission Oil 1-qt. Enter quantity of 12 for case discount. Designed by Spectro in response to complaints from Harley owners about the great but noisy new 6-speed transmission, this full synthetic provides ultimate lubrication protection. Formulated to significantly reduce gear noise and provide easier, smoother shifting, this SAE 75w140 formulation eases shifting even when cold. High loads and extreme heat do not affect the oil, so it performs well when pushed hard and long. A.P.I. GL-5 rated
List Price: $19.60
Price: $15.85





Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase Oil 1-qt
Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase Oil 1-qt. This sheer stable petroleum is designed to withstand the punishment of high loads, and contains special polymers to provide exceptional clutch engagement and temperature stability. Meets full OEM requirements, and should be used according to manufacturers’ instructions. Formulated specifically for Harley® Sportster and Big Twin applications. Low drag, low friction loss SAE 85w viscosity helps eliminate clutch “drag” and slipping.
List Price: $12.04
Price: $7.95

 

I use fluids from HD as spec'd for each of my bikes.

my other vehicles get fluids that meet manufacturer's specs---most motor oils are spec'd to meet API standards.
That doesn;t apply to "recreational vehicles"- so there is room for pseudo-science and snake oil in the marketing aimed at us.

on your 09, HD syn3 is spec'd.
HD Primary+ is spec'd for the tranny and primary drive

In most cases you can swap in a new brand fluid after draining out the old- we have 1 exception- the primary.
The clutch plates absorb fluid- if a new fluid is added which is not of a same type, clutch grip and release may be unpredictable.
also the clutch basket may retain 7 oz or so of old fluid unless steps are taken to get it out- beyond just pulling the plug.
I zip tie my clutch lever and leave on the jiffy overnight, I may also hit the starter a few times to spin the old stuff out.

Mike

 

 

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" I zip tie my clutch lever and leave on the jiffy overnight, I may also hit the starter a few times to spin the old stuff out."


Hi Mike,you always have good advice but i have to comment on your above statement.

Keeping the clutch handle pulled in/in disengaged position over night is not good at all for the stock diaphram clutch spring or aftermarket Bahrnett type clutch spring setup using a multiple spring PP type deal either.

Thats because when you have the clutch spring and or springs compressed all the way for 8-10-12 hrs doing that each time you change prim oil will prematurly weaken the clutch spring/s which isnt good & could lead to clutch slip esp with mods that inc pwr/trq.

Thats why i always rec popping bike or man trans vehicle into neutral just before you stop at lights which over time greatly reduces wear on clutch sping-s in a bike or PP spring in a car/truck,with motor running at a stop being in neutral also reduced wear on release/throwout bearing too significantly increasing the srv'c life of those items too.

That far out weighs any chance for any incompatability issue of the few oz's oil left in clutch pack to negatively react with diff mfgs or type oil used in the prim.

I have been wrenching bikes (cars in general & classic muscle cars too) for over 4 decades swapping oil type & oil mfgs all over the place and never had an issue where a few oz's oil left in clutch pack caused clutch slippage issues or shifting trans issues either.

And that includes never having any of my bikes or other peoples bikes have worked on have clutch slip issues going from std dino to full syn either which i realize can possibly happen once in a while that has yet to happane to me in 4+ decades doing this stuff.

But i have had to replace a few clutch springs in bikes and clutches/PP's in cars over the yrs due to guys that are in traffic more often always holding the clutch disengaged for the entire length of every stoplight they they hit prematurely weaking clutch spring-s and or PP spring-s enough to cause clutch slippage and or release bearing to wear out squeeling like heck (or wearing both!) every time clutch is disengaged .

But thats as long as there weren't issues to begin with like an already weakened clutch spring from always holding the clutch in/disengaged at stop lights 2-3mins at a time for many over many yrs that collectively together add up to a lot of compressed time the clutch spring weakening it it leading to premature clutch slippage and or failed release/throwout bearing too .

Or from an improperly adj clutch with no freeplay resulting the the clutch spring/PP/or release bearing always having pressure
on it with clutch disengaged with the motorcycle or car driving down the road.

Just my $02 on it.

Scott

 

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But didnt you see he covered himself with the title of his thread i pasted below for you to chk out in case you missed it?

" Please don't shoot me!! Yes another oil question "

Man you must really want to shoot me after what i posted for him!

Hey,maybe if you ignore & or don't read this type thread it wont bother you anymore.

No disrespect intended as i am just having a little fun busting your chops.!/LOL!

I guess i should finally come out of the closet have & admit i have truely been a " closet oil & battery " for bikes and cars (esp oil for classic cars running flat tappet cams & lifters) for over 4+ decades & still counting!/LOL!!!

I wish you SAFE & HAPPY Motoring on your HD!

Scott

 

I ran Amsoil 20W-50 in all 3, no problems here. I may change to hole specifics at my 5K this winter.

 

I use Amsoil 20/50 in the engine and primary and Amsoil 75/140 Severe Gear in the trans with good results. That said, any brand synthetic in these weights specific to V-twin bikes will do. The trick is to use the right oil for the application, i.e., trans oil in the trans, not engine oil. Amsoil has recently come up with a trans fluid specifically for V-twin transmissions. I may give that a shot in place of the Severe Gear on my next change just to see how that works.

 

Interesting comment, Thanks.

I've done this maybe 7 or 8 times over the years on a few of my diaphragm spring clutches- no problem- but it is possible I suppose.

for all the posts about clutches on the HDForums, I have had really good clutch results over the years- the 88 has S/E spring and barnett kevlar since 1990, up over 80K. Easy Boy kit

The 1995 was over 82K with stock clutch when I sold it, easy boy added.


The 2009 has the HD version of the easy boy and this thing was ultra fiddly when adjusting the clutch- It took a "book" adjustment, then 2 further roadside adjustments...and has been good the past 4 years.


Thanks, Mike