Press Start, hear pop, no start, voltage drop
#1
09-23-2015, 08:12 PM
Press Start, hear pop, no start, voltage drop
I posted this in electrical as well.
Bike ran fine a week ago. (Bike is a 2010 flhtk with 30k miles and no problems til now). Took bike out a week later. Tried to start and
heard a pop. After pop heard lots of chatter. Next day I looked into problem and here is what is happening:
I put a volt meter on battery after charging the battery. charged to 13 volts. Put back in bike, check voltage and at 12.8 volts, turned
on main switch and run/stop button and pressed starter button and hear a pop after which lighting relay chatters. Pulled lighting relay
and System relay chatters.
Notice on volt meter voltage drops from 12.8 to around 5 volts. Turn main switch off and voltage climbs slowly. Once voltage gets to 12
volts I can turn on main switch and run switch and all lights work, fuel pump come on, turn signals, horn,
radio, etc... all work .Once I hit start switch I get a pop ( which I traced to starter. Sounds like it is stuck) and the symptons start
over again. Ie..voltage drops to 5v and lighting relay chatters. I remove it and system relay chatters. I remove it and once voltage
climbs to 12v all electrical works. I get a code of p1003. I replaced the starter, system, and lighting relay since they were inexpensive
but same problem. All battery connections look tight. Battery is about 2.5 years old, never tendered, and has shown signs in the past of
slow starts but eventually cranks. Before I throw real money at it I am wonndering if this is a starter issue or a bad battery that shows
when I hit the start button and the starter pops like it can't turn or something else. (Had my hand on starter when pressing start button
and it acts like it is locked or can't turn.). I did add chrome switch housings and 12" apes and extended wiring but that was 3 years ago
and never had a problem in over 25,000 miles. Every thing I read is possible bad battery but want to get opinion of experts here first.
the relays were inexpensive to replace but want to make sure before throwing parts at it. Since battery is over 2 years old and never
tendered I plan to get a new one but wondering if it could possibly be something else. Bike has been flawless otherwise.
thanks for any help
Duck
Bike ran fine a week ago. (Bike is a 2010 flhtk with 30k miles and no problems til now). Took bike out a week later. Tried to start and
heard a pop. After pop heard lots of chatter. Next day I looked into problem and here is what is happening:
I put a volt meter on battery after charging the battery. charged to 13 volts. Put back in bike, check voltage and at 12.8 volts, turned
on main switch and run/stop button and pressed starter button and hear a pop after which lighting relay chatters. Pulled lighting relay
and System relay chatters.
Notice on volt meter voltage drops from 12.8 to around 5 volts. Turn main switch off and voltage climbs slowly. Once voltage gets to 12
volts I can turn on main switch and run switch and all lights work, fuel pump come on, turn signals, horn,
radio, etc... all work .Once I hit start switch I get a pop ( which I traced to starter. Sounds like it is stuck) and the symptons start
over again. Ie..voltage drops to 5v and lighting relay chatters. I remove it and system relay chatters. I remove it and once voltage
climbs to 12v all electrical works. I get a code of p1003. I replaced the starter, system, and lighting relay since they were inexpensive
but same problem. All battery connections look tight. Battery is about 2.5 years old, never tendered, and has shown signs in the past of
slow starts but eventually cranks. Before I throw real money at it I am wonndering if this is a starter issue or a bad battery that shows
when I hit the start button and the starter pops like it can't turn or something else. (Had my hand on starter when pressing start button
and it acts like it is locked or can't turn.). I did add chrome switch housings and 12" apes and extended wiring but that was 3 years ago
and never had a problem in over 25,000 miles. Every thing I read is possible bad battery but want to get opinion of experts here first.
the relays were inexpensive to replace but want to make sure before throwing parts at it. Since battery is over 2 years old and never
tendered I plan to get a new one but wondering if it could possibly be something else. Bike has been flawless otherwise.
thanks for any help
Duck
#2
09-23-2015, 08:27 PM
your battery is duff.
and all that chattering is putting carbon on teh contacts in your relays
it shows the 12 volts ( or whatever) but cannot supply any current at that speed. ( volts is a measurement of how quickly the electrons are flowing- amps or current is a measurement of the force with which they move) ---see correction in post below-it was late)
many of us get our big crank batteries from batterymart on ebay or amazon, about $100 to your door.
with a new battery, charge it ( charger not a "tender") first then install it.
the nylon pull strap under your old battery may be worn through- careful you don;t drop the battery on your tank or toes
mike
and all that chattering is putting carbon on teh contacts in your relays
it shows the 12 volts ( or whatever) but cannot supply any current at that speed. ( volts is a measurement of how quickly the electrons are flowing- amps or current is a measurement of the force with which they move) ---see correction in post below-it was late)
many of us get our big crank batteries from batterymart on ebay or amazon, about $100 to your door.
with a new battery, charge it ( charger not a "tender") first then install it.
the nylon pull strap under your old battery may be worn through- careful you don;t drop the battery on your tank or toes
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 09-24-2015 at 11:43 AM. Reason: referenced correction- duh!
#4
09-24-2015, 07:52 AM
Stellar HDF Member
#5
09-24-2015, 07:59 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
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#6
09-24-2015, 09:25 AM
Club Member
your battery is duff.
and all that chattering is putting carbon on teh contacts in your relays
it shows the 12 volts ( or whatever) but cannot supply any current at that speed. ( volts is a measurement of how quickly the electrons are flowing- amps or current is a measurement of the force with which they move)
many of us get our big crank batteries from batterymart on ebay or amazon, about $100 to your door.
with a new battery, charge it ( charger not a "tender") first then install it.
the nylon pull strap under your old battery may be worn through- careful you don;t drop the battery on your tank or toes
mike
and all that chattering is putting carbon on teh contacts in your relays
it shows the 12 volts ( or whatever) but cannot supply any current at that speed. ( volts is a measurement of how quickly the electrons are flowing- amps or current is a measurement of the force with which they move)
many of us get our big crank batteries from batterymart on ebay or amazon, about $100 to your door.
with a new battery, charge it ( charger not a "tender") first then install it.
the nylon pull strap under your old battery may be worn through- careful you don;t drop the battery on your tank or toes
mike
Mike, I think you meant to say: Amps or current is a measurement of how quickly the electrons are flowing- Voltage is a measurement of the force with which they move.
#7
09-24-2015, 12:39 PM
HDF Community Team
Trending Topics
#8
09-24-2015, 02:13 PM
I posted this in electrical as well.
Bike ran fine a week ago. (Bike is a 2010 flhtk with 30k miles and no problems til now). Took bike out a week later. Tried to start and
heard a pop. After pop heard lots of chatter. Next day I looked into problem and here is what is happening:
I put a volt meter on battery after charging the battery. charged to 13 volts. Put back in bike, check voltage and at 12.8 volts, turned
on main switch and run/stop button and pressed starter button and hear a pop after which lighting relay chatters. Pulled lighting relay
and System relay chatters.
Notice on volt meter voltage drops from 12.8 to around 5 volts. Turn main switch off and voltage climbs slowly. Once voltage gets to 12
volts I can turn on main switch and run switch and all lights work, fuel pump come on, turn signals, horn,
radio, etc... all work .Once I hit start switch I get a pop ( which I traced to starter. Sounds like it is stuck) and the symptons start
over again. Ie..voltage drops to 5v and lighting relay chatters. I remove it and system relay chatters. I remove it and once voltage
climbs to 12v all electrical works. I get a code of p1003. I replaced the starter, system, and lighting relay since they were inexpensive
but same problem. All battery connections look tight. Battery is about 2.5 years old, never tendered, and has shown signs in the past of
slow starts but eventually cranks. Before I throw real money at it I am wonndering if this is a starter issue or a bad battery that shows
when I hit the start button and the starter pops like it can't turn or something else. (Had my hand on starter when pressing start button
and it acts like it is locked or can't turn.). I did add chrome switch housings and 12" apes and extended wiring but that was 3 years ago
and never had a problem in over 25,000 miles. Every thing I read is possible bad battery but want to get opinion of experts here first.
the relays were inexpensive to replace but want to make sure before throwing parts at it. Since battery is over 2 years old and never
tendered I plan to get a new one but wondering if it could possibly be something else. Bike has been flawless otherwise.
thanks for any help
Duck
Bike ran fine a week ago. (Bike is a 2010 flhtk with 30k miles and no problems til now). Took bike out a week later. Tried to start and
heard a pop. After pop heard lots of chatter. Next day I looked into problem and here is what is happening:
I put a volt meter on battery after charging the battery. charged to 13 volts. Put back in bike, check voltage and at 12.8 volts, turned
on main switch and run/stop button and pressed starter button and hear a pop after which lighting relay chatters. Pulled lighting relay
and System relay chatters.
Notice on volt meter voltage drops from 12.8 to around 5 volts. Turn main switch off and voltage climbs slowly. Once voltage gets to 12
volts I can turn on main switch and run switch and all lights work, fuel pump come on, turn signals, horn,
radio, etc... all work .Once I hit start switch I get a pop ( which I traced to starter. Sounds like it is stuck) and the symptons start
over again. Ie..voltage drops to 5v and lighting relay chatters. I remove it and system relay chatters. I remove it and once voltage
climbs to 12v all electrical works. I get a code of p1003. I replaced the starter, system, and lighting relay since they were inexpensive
but same problem. All battery connections look tight. Battery is about 2.5 years old, never tendered, and has shown signs in the past of
slow starts but eventually cranks. Before I throw real money at it I am wonndering if this is a starter issue or a bad battery that shows
when I hit the start button and the starter pops like it can't turn or something else. (Had my hand on starter when pressing start button
and it acts like it is locked or can't turn.). I did add chrome switch housings and 12" apes and extended wiring but that was 3 years ago
and never had a problem in over 25,000 miles. Every thing I read is possible bad battery but want to get opinion of experts here first.
the relays were inexpensive to replace but want to make sure before throwing parts at it. Since battery is over 2 years old and never
tendered I plan to get a new one but wondering if it could possibly be something else. Bike has been flawless otherwise.
thanks for any help
Duck
Seems like the battery too dump or possibly bad connection or relay someplace too.
But i'd suspect battery at this point.
With that said here are some good prices on good quality higher output agm batteries then HD's much more expensive $180 agm repl battery.
Scott
==========================================
Here ya go,some of the best prices on upgraded more powerful Maint free fact activated AGM stock type batteries.
Stock HD repl fact act mant free AGM battery is 385cca at a whopping $180+.
These same type maint free fact activated agm batteries are higher output @ 400cca , 500cca & 600cca at $20 , $70 to as much as $100 less for a quality Deka 400cca AGM battery then hd's lower output repl battery.
See below links for details.
Scott
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deka-ETX30L-...item1c573cfe0f
http://powersportbatteries.com/more-...nk-etx30l.html
http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...L-Battery.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121429861963
#10
09-24-2015, 03:17 PM
Road Captain
Do you have a voltometer?
The first thing I would do is dig the probes into the lead of the battery and hold them tight with each hand (see note) while an assistant hits the start button. If the juice goes way down, the battery is shot, if not, trace along to find the drop.
Note- One of the fundementals of voltometers is always either clamp one probe to ground, or hold both in a single hand. You never want one probe in each hand, but this is just 12 V.
The first thing I would do is dig the probes into the lead of the battery and hold them tight with each hand (see note) while an assistant hits the start button. If the juice goes way down, the battery is shot, if not, trace along to find the drop.
Note- One of the fundementals of voltometers is always either clamp one probe to ground, or hold both in a single hand. You never want one probe in each hand, but this is just 12 V.