Multiple starts with no extensive drive time or tender charge is hard on the AGM battery. This type of duty will give a surface charge with no deep charge. There is a preface page in the owner's manual dealing with this information and HD's recommendations.

 

I never thought much of battery tenders. I had my 06 RK from new and never replaced the battery until last year. . .right before I traded it (FML). And I really abused that battery. It sat sometimes for 8-9 months while on deployments and the a couple of years while I was away overseas. It should have tanked long before it did. The new bike has lots more trons flowing around and although I ride every day about 25 minutes each way I was beginning to think I could tell the battery was losing a step. Did a ton of research and landed on an Optimate Ampmatic TM-181. DEFINITELY a difference the next day. Initial starts are much stronger. I don't use it every day but if it sits longer than 24 hours it gets plugged in. This charger comes highly recommended. Its not the cheapest option, but I figured I dropped a bunch of dough on this bike, I could afford a C-note to keep it happy.

 

It is still under warranty. Drop it on the dealer. The charging system, the battery having a problem, and the possibility of an unusual parasitic discharge are all possible. Telling you to put it on a maintainer DAILY puts a band aid on the symptom but doesn't cure the problem. That service guy needs his tail kicked.

 

I have a battery tender that I move around in the garage to different vehicles, including my riding mower, and leave it on each one sometime for days. It will definitely extend the service life of the batteries, and help provide a better, hotter start. I have a 25' Deltran Cord that eases the process.
You should NOT be required to connect the tender to your bike battery for your bike to crank after just a day or two. Something else is going on. Some people may use a tender to buy time on an old, weak battery, but in that case, they are just buying time.
I would pull the battery, put a good, full charge on it, then take it somewhere you trust and have a good load test put on it. If all is well there, I would top off the charge, reinstall, and find the parasite pulling down the battery.
The band aid approach would not get it with me. I want my bike to be full ready to start, just off the tender - or not.

 

 

I have a one year old battery in my EG. Recently I noticed when I hit the starter button, it hesitates then fires up. I was thinking my starter may be going bad because it did take some abuse for a few thousand miles from a banging Compensator that I had to replace.
Today I took it to the dealer and they said don't worry about it, it's normal.
I didn't know whether to feel relieved or laugh!

 

I had that issue after a couple years with my glide.
I too thought that it was the battery and replaced it.
Found out it was the starter clutch.
It is the weak link in HD starters.
I will bet yours is too.
Replace it and see.

 

Get it load tested and take it one step at a time. One of the first signs of a failing battery is slow cranking, starter is the highest drawing circuit on a vehicle. It could be a crappy battery from day 1 and it is failing sooner than usual and/or not holding a charge. So after you get it charged 100%, take the surface charge off and load test it. If its good, start looking at your charging system.
Battery cable maintenance, climatic conditions will have an affect on a battery.

 

If you decide to replace the battery go with the Lightning Start. It's much stronger than the H-D and will start the motor much quicker. A weak battery doesn't start these FI bikes well.
Billy

 

It seems to me the only drain on the battery when turned off is the security system. So the bike should be able to sit for several weeks or longer before the battery is drained -- mine does since I have two bikes and one is my daily rider do to security reasons at work. My 14 has set for a quite awhile and still fires right up. as did my 09 CVO