Issues with the 96 CI Motors
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Issues with the 96 CI Motors
So I read all about the issues with the cam chain tensioners on the 99-07 88 CI motors. Is there a new systemic problem with the 96 CI motors put in after 07? I assume the tensioners are good but did HD have an issue with some other area of these motors? It sounds like if you haven't had the tensioners replaced on an older model bike you are on borrowed time for the most part and if they go they are not very forgiving. Just trying to make an informed decision before I buy a 08 or newer model or 07 and older.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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07 was first year for 96" and new hydraulic tensioners. Pre07 TC 88 can be upgraded to new hydraulic tensioners otherwise just consider them a maintenance item that need to be addressed every 30k or so. I put 75,000 miles on a 99 FL W/TC88 and replaced the tensioners twice and both times they were worn only minor.
Currently have an 08TC96 with 55k and replaced Inner Primary Bearing at 40k.
Currently have an 08TC96 with 55k and replaced Inner Primary Bearing at 40k.
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Campy Roadie (11-10-2016)
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I've worked on at least a dozen of '06 and earlier TwinCams where the chain tensioners had worn out or even disintegrated. one of them had so much slack in the chain that the sprocket had beat up the pinion to the point of it needing replacement - that bike had 28,000 miles on the odometer. Not cheap to replace the crankshaft assembly.
You're right, the compensator issue on '07 - up is real. But there's a fix for it. I'd always pick the 96" or 103" stroker motor for a touring bike, they just move better with the extra torque...
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Have about 77,000 miles on an 08 96 ci engine in a Road King. The engine itself has been trouble free. The weak compensator took out the starter clutch. Replaced both at 15,000 and just ride now. Oil changes, tires and brakes are about it. One note, if you find one that still has the factory compensator, the current Harley kit no longer includes the updated rotor needed because of the bellville springs on the upgraded compensator. The real "target market" for the new compensator is for the '11 and newer machines that already have the correct rotor. Replacing the rotor adds about another $250 to the job. The basic replacement procedure is the same as all the SE compensators, there are plenty of "how to's" in the forums and on net. The latest version requires gluing an oiler cup (included in the kit) to the outer primary cover. Unfortunately, the specified glue is NOT included. Also not included is the T70 Torx bit required to tighten the center bolt securing the compensator to the crankshaft.
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I just put my 08 Road King in the shop to have the engine rebuilt at 120,000 miles. It was still running great and was getting 45 miles to the gallon. If it sat for more than a weak, it would clatter for 20 seconds or so until the lifters pumped back up but was fine after that. I was told at 70,000 miles when I changed the compensator ( it was still working but banging every once in while) that the crank was out of round and I need to rebuild the engine. It was out .009 I asked what the tolerance was and when they told me .012, I told them to put it back together. I sit daily in bumper to bumper traffic in the Houston heat.
In other words, my engine has been used and abused and was still running fine when I put it in the shop. The only reason it's in the shop is because I had the money and wanted to upgrade the internals so I can get another 200,000 out of it.
In other words, my engine has been used and abused and was still running fine when I put it in the shop. The only reason it's in the shop is because I had the money and wanted to upgrade the internals so I can get another 200,000 out of it.