Good directions from helipilot.

If you don't have an ohm meter use your circuit tester. Look at diagram B18 and disconnect 78 b from the ECM. Pin 27 is where the ECM checks for power from the System Relay. Hook your tester to 78b 27, not the ECM, the cable, and see if you get 12 V when you turn ignition on and kill switch on with the system relay installed.

 

Vernal, s76helipilot.. your advice is greatly appreciated...

 

BTW, Bought and Changed the system and starter relays and still no joy... Ii will still test for power to the ECM. I also will reset the security system, just to eliminate that as well...

 

Vernal, s76helipilot.....I disconnected the ECM and checked 78B 27 wire. I did receive 12V when both the ignition switch was on and run switch, set to run. Simply used my tester as suggested. I am leaning towards a bad ECM. I reviewed a 2011 electrical diagnostic manual (My bike is a 2010) and followed a procedure list under "ECM Test" which stated to unplug the ECM and look for "BUS Er" to appear on the odometer display. I followed the procedures and did not get the message on the OD. Remedy states to replace the ECM. Thoughts??? I understand there is a connection somewhere under the dash for the fuel pump (??) don't know but I will be looking for one just to rule that out as well..

 

I think you still need to check for either continuity from the system relay coil ground (pin 3C) back to the ecm or check that pin with the relay pulled with an ohm meter to a good known ground to see if you are getting the ground during the first couple of seconds.

 

I got out my 2010 Elect. Diagnostic manual and we maybe at the end of the road.
The problem appears to be the fuel pump does not come on. The starter engages and the bike will crank. By jumping the system relay contact we found out the pump runs when it gets 12 V. The system relay makes and does send 12 V to the ECM at 78B 27, you saw 12 V with your circuit tester. If the connector is good at 78 then the manual says to replace the ECM.
Take a good look at the connector on 78B make sure the pin isn't corroded or bent. I would try some electric contact cleaner, plastic friendy, and see if that helps.


You could check whether 3C is grounded, do you have an OHM meter? Connect it to the battery Negative or a good ground and ECM 78 A 27 and you should see near 0 Ohms if it is grounded. I just don't know if the ECM first sees 12 V on 27 then closes a contact or if the contact is Normally Closed? I'll post the pages from the ED Manual:

 

Vernal, s76helipilot, you guys have been awesome and I appreciate the advice you have consistently provided. This is what make this forum what it is. A group of individuals willing to offer their insight and knowledge so freely. It is much appreciated. Vernal, I will perform what you have suggested as a last resort and see if the problem is resolved. If not, it appears, as you have read in the ED Manual, the ECM is my issue. I will post within the next week my results and resulting actions. Again, Thanks for the advice...

 

fwiw, that test is the same for a 2010 but it is associated with dtc codes u1300, 1301 or bus er. You mentioned that you were able to pull codes. Did you have any and if so what were they? Because you have no check engine light, you should go through the "no ecm power" trouble tree before you go buy a new ecm.

 

Fixed??

 

Be careful using a test light to check for voltage in these Delphi systems. A DVM is needed in many circuits for voltage checks and using a test light will send you to REPLACE ECM on a YES to voltage that is not present when using a DVM.