All,


2010 Street Glide. No modification to the engine or the exhaust. Stock. I am having a similar issue. Parked the bike for lunch after about riding for 1 hour. No problem experienced whatsoever. Came back out to start the bike and it would not start. Strong battery, engine cranking strongly and fuel in the tank. However, when the Run / Off switch is depressed, the Check Engine Light does not illuminate and I do not hear the fuel spray (injected) at all. Checked for DTC's and there are none. Also checked all fuses and all are good. Any advice would be very much appreciated.

 

1. Check the fuel pressure pump fuse again just to be sure.
2. Check the spark plugs...make sure caps are on tight
3. Ensure coil connection is sound
3. Stopped-up fuel filter?
If the bike is cranking strong and just not firing, then its either a fuel delivery issue or a spark issue.

 

When you turn the ignition on 12 V power is provided to the stop/run switch. When you move the switch to run it puts 12 V to the start button and the coil of the system relay. The system relay contacts make and 12 V goes to the Fuel Pump, ACR, Coils, O2 sensors and fuel injectors. When you turn the switch to run you should hear the fuel pump run for 3 seconds. You could pull the system relay and see if you have 12 V on the W/BK wire when you have the ignition on and stop/run switch to run, (this is the power to the coil). If you have 12 V to the coil can you feel the relay contacts make? You could pull the fuel pump fuse and see if you have 12V to one side and check the fuse again. The lighting relay or start relay may be the same as the system relay and you could swap it out to see if the relay is bad.

Good Luck

 

Thanks Low Country, I will check all of the above and post.

 

Thank Vernal, I will do as you suggest and post my findings. I did replace the fuse to the Fuel Pump and toggled on the switch but No-Joy. As for turning on the switch and hearing the fuel pump, that does not happen. I do not believe it is the Run/Off switch because I am able to pull the DTC's and that switch must be switched to run. I would think if it was bad, it would prevent me from pulling the codes. Nevertheless, I will be posting my findings tomorrow.

 

Check the plug left side of throttle body. Unplug and plug a few times and check. Also Die-grease it.

 

Have you done any work under the console? There is a multi-wire plug that connects to the removable piece on top of the tank that holds the fuel pump and fuel gauge assembly. If everything else checks out good that plug may need to be unplugged, cleaned, and re-connected. If you have a wiring diagram that would also be the time to check for 12 volts to the fuel pump pin in that plug and the adequacy of the ground for the ground wire in the plug. If it were me, I wouldn't worry about trouble shooting the ignition until the fuel pump is restored to operation.

 

Key fob battery ok?

 

Given the circumstances, that would have been my guess.

 

It's not the key FOB.The OP said it cranks over but won't start. A key fob or security issue wouldn't wouldn't allow the starter to crank.