rocker shafts
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#4
from what i have read in the past was people were using shims from a shovel head engine. im trying to figure out an automotive shim for mine same engine kit you have 103 stage 4 kit noisy as all hell. when i find a thick enough shim i will put the plates on a mill and machine them down. to make sure i do not use to small of a shim. and replace rockers with rollers to reduce valve train noise / ware. i did replace the rocker arm bushings with new ones cheaper then replacing the rockers when i did my engine.
#5
Usually, since the as build tolerance is pretty large, it hurts little to have them run with a few more .001. I would not think it would be wise to run any shim in there under .020. You do not want it wearing and coming out of there. As much end clearance as they run, it would appear they run to one side and stay there since with hydraulic lifters, there is always tension on them. Someone did write he was shimming but never got back.
#6
FWIW I've played quite a bit with end shimming & had very little change in noise. Research I've done reading various forums around the net shows the vast majority of others have found the same.
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#7
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#9
With the push-rod on one side and the valve stem on the other, just how do you determine this on a TC? I went back in my older manual and never did find this. One thing I did discover interesting is the Panhead had the hydraulic lifter in the push-rod. The old Knuckle had shims . It also only ran .007-.016 clearance in the rocker. (Lot less then the TCs) The shims are on the push-rod side for the Knuckle and fit into a pocket. Still looking for the OEM call out for the shim spread in my old part manuals. Was never able to find it yet. Interesting but back in the good old days with the 3 piece crank, you could actually buy the small roller pins in .0002 over up to .001 over and a undersized .0002 ones no less. Off to Yoga for now or RIP is going to disown me.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 02-10-2016 at 08:19 AM.