Stock air shocks - newer vs. older
#11
air shocks
These stock shocks do a decent job for the intended purpose which is to provide dampening for riders from 125 pounds to half a ton.
You might search for changing the oil in the existing shocks as it does make quite a nice improvement indeed.
Are the aftermarket ones that much better ? Sure they are but not worth the money to me, I went that route before in my opinionated opinion the stockers have a much wider range of weight where they work fine, are stupid simple to adjust instantly and do the job.
Look in the Goldwing forums about these shocks, those guys rebuild them.
FWIW I went with synthetic ATF in mine and was happy. I do have a second pair waiting for amsoil shock therapy.
I removed the air line connector, clamped a steel rod in the vice to hang the shocks upside a couple days to drain and used a animal syringe to get the new fluid back in, total cost about 12 bucks.
You might search for changing the oil in the existing shocks as it does make quite a nice improvement indeed.
Are the aftermarket ones that much better ? Sure they are but not worth the money to me, I went that route before in my opinionated opinion the stockers have a much wider range of weight where they work fine, are stupid simple to adjust instantly and do the job.
Look in the Goldwing forums about these shocks, those guys rebuild them.
FWIW I went with synthetic ATF in mine and was happy. I do have a second pair waiting for amsoil shock therapy.
I removed the air line connector, clamped a steel rod in the vice to hang the shocks upside a couple days to drain and used a animal syringe to get the new fluid back in, total cost about 12 bucks.
It's funny that on a Goldwing they are good for 100,000 miles and get rebuilt repeatedly, but on a harley - THE SAME SHOCK is junk after 10,000 miles.
I rebuild them at my shop here in Canada (because nobody else does) as well as modify them for custom ride height. They are an excellent shock for the intended use. They are a touring shock for a heavy bagger that can have varied loads during the day. I love the adjustability of adding 1-2-3 psi as I feel I need. As to the difference internally between early and later models, well there is a minor valving change which is minimal, but there is a spring change too. If you were to dismantle one you would find that internally there is STILL a spring in there. Early models have one heavier spring and later models have a pair of lighter springs. Effective spring rate is still the same and from all the ones I have measured on my spring rate tester, they all come in around the 150# range. The AIR that you add is in addition to the coil spring. So look at the system like any automotive one where they have an air bag inside a coil spring. The addition of air allows you to tune the overall "spring rate" with very reliable and repeatable results as the compression of air is a progressive rate.
As mentioned earlier, if you want to improve performance, change the oil in your shock at a regular interval. This shock is user serviceable in that manner if you so choose. I don't use ATF, but rather hydraulic oil ISO32 in not only the bike shocks but in all the race cars here too. Lots of youTube vidoes of the "home" method. Remember, it's the fluid that breaks down, wears out and needs changing. You don't put a new motor in your bike every 5000 miles do you? No, you change the fluids...think about that.
#12
Well put!! Too many people suffer from the "back of the comic book" syndrome. If your over 50 you probably know what I mean, sea-monkeys, x-ray glasses and space telephones! LOL.... If you have to replace them for the newest best technology then fine do it, but don't slag them off as junk.
It's funny that on a Goldwing they are good for 100,000 miles and get rebuilt repeatedly, but on a harley - THE SAME SHOCK is junk after 10,000 miles.
I rebuild them at my shop here in Canada (because nobody else does) as well as modify them for custom ride height. They are an excellent shock for the intended use. They are a touring shock for a heavy bagger that can have varied loads during the day. I love the adjustability of adding 1-2-3 psi as I feel I need. As to the difference internally between early and later models, well there is a minor valving change which is minimal, but there is a spring change too. If you were to dismantle one you would find that internally there is STILL a spring in there. Early models have one heavier spring and later models have a pair of lighter springs. Effective spring rate is still the same and from all the ones I have measured on my spring rate tester, they all come in around the 150# range. The AIR that you add is in addition to the coil spring. So look at the system like any automotive one where they have an air bag inside a coil spring. The addition of air allows you to tune the overall "spring rate" with very reliable and repeatable results as the compression of air is a progressive rate.
As mentioned earlier, if you want to improve performance, change the oil in your shock at a regular interval. This shock is user serviceable in that manner if you so choose. I don't use ATF, but rather hydraulic oil ISO32 in not only the bike shocks but in all the race cars here too. Lots of youTube vidoes of the "home" method. Remember, it's the fluid that breaks down, wears out and needs changing. You don't put a new motor in your bike every 5000 miles do you? No, you change the fluids...think about that.
It's funny that on a Goldwing they are good for 100,000 miles and get rebuilt repeatedly, but on a harley - THE SAME SHOCK is junk after 10,000 miles.
I rebuild them at my shop here in Canada (because nobody else does) as well as modify them for custom ride height. They are an excellent shock for the intended use. They are a touring shock for a heavy bagger that can have varied loads during the day. I love the adjustability of adding 1-2-3 psi as I feel I need. As to the difference internally between early and later models, well there is a minor valving change which is minimal, but there is a spring change too. If you were to dismantle one you would find that internally there is STILL a spring in there. Early models have one heavier spring and later models have a pair of lighter springs. Effective spring rate is still the same and from all the ones I have measured on my spring rate tester, they all come in around the 150# range. The AIR that you add is in addition to the coil spring. So look at the system like any automotive one where they have an air bag inside a coil spring. The addition of air allows you to tune the overall "spring rate" with very reliable and repeatable results as the compression of air is a progressive rate.
As mentioned earlier, if you want to improve performance, change the oil in your shock at a regular interval. This shock is user serviceable in that manner if you so choose. I don't use ATF, but rather hydraulic oil ISO32 in not only the bike shocks but in all the race cars here too. Lots of youTube vidoes of the "home" method. Remember, it's the fluid that breaks down, wears out and needs changing. You don't put a new motor in your bike every 5000 miles do you? No, you change the fluids...think about that.
Last edited by bikerlaw; 02-10-2016 at 11:37 AM.
#13
All I can say is I have been riding a Harley for the last 30 years and never found the sweet spot for setting the air shocks. I haven't purchased a new motorcycle in the last 13 years because nothing has changed in the ride quality so I wore my last bike out. I finally broke down and purchased a new 2016 Ultra Limited and have yet to ride it but one thing I can guarantee you is that I installed a new set of aftermarket shocks before I ever took it for a ride. I salute those that like the air shock ride, but mine just wore me out. Your mileage may vary.
Last edited by wparente; 02-10-2016 at 07:33 PM.
#14
air shocks
All I can say is I have been riding a Harley for the last 30 years and never found the sweet spot for setting the air shocks. I haven't purchased a new motorcycle in the last 13 years because nothing has changed in the ride quality so I wore my last bike out. I finally broke down and purchased a new 2016 Ultra Limited and have yet to ride it but one thing I can guarantee you is that I installed a new set of aftermarket shocks before I ever took it for a ride. I salute those that like the air shock ride, but mine just wore me out. Your mileage may vary.
Willing to send me your 2016 shocks? I'm always looking for good cores to mod for lowered bikes! I can give you a NY address.
Thanks!
#15
Porschemann- I forgot to mention I rented a 2015 Ultra Limited Low and a 2014 Ultra Limited Standard putting on 2500 miles between them in Arizona. The 2014 standard was ok, but I did not like the 2015 Low much. I was just looking for more in ride quality out of both. For now the shocks are plugged and sitting on the shelf. I'm a hoarder so I will probably keep them until their worthless, or one of my buddy have a problem with theirs!
In your pic I see your at the race track, probably with a Porsche. I compete in the Central Division of the SCCA road racing with a single seater SRF3. If you ever make it to Road America we might bump in to each other.
In your pic I see your at the race track, probably with a Porsche. I compete in the Central Division of the SCCA road racing with a single seater SRF3. If you ever make it to Road America we might bump in to each other.
#16
Well put!! Too many people suffer from the "back of the comic book" syndrome. If your over 50 you probably know what I mean, sea-monkeys, x-ray glasses and space telephones! LOL.... If you have to replace them for the newest best technology then fine do it, but don't slag them off as junk.
It's funny that on a Goldwing they are good for 100,000 miles and get rebuilt repeatedly, but on a harley - THE SAME SHOCK is junk after 10,000 miles.
I rebuild them at my shop here in Canada (because nobody else does) as well as modify them for custom ride height. They are an excellent shock for the intended use. They are a touring shock for a heavy bagger that can have varied loads during the day. I love the adjustability of adding 1-2-3 psi as I feel I need. As to the difference internally between early and later models, well there is a minor valving change which is minimal, but there is a spring change too. If you were to dismantle one you would find that internally there is STILL a spring in there. Early models have one heavier spring and later models have a pair of lighter springs. Effective spring rate is still the same and from all the ones I have measured on my spring rate tester, they all come in around the 150# range. The AIR that you add is in addition to the coil spring. So look at the system like any automotive one where they have an air bag inside a coil spring. The addition of air allows you to tune the overall "spring rate" with very reliable and repeatable results as the compression of air is a progressive rate.
As mentioned earlier, if you want to improve performance, change the oil in your shock at a regular interval. This shock is user serviceable in that manner if you so choose. I don't use ATF, but rather hydraulic oil ISO32 in not only the bike shocks but in all the race cars here too. Lots of youTube vidoes of the "home" method. Remember, it's the fluid that breaks down, wears out and needs changing. You don't put a new motor in your bike every 5000 miles do you? No, you change the fluids...think about that.
It's funny that on a Goldwing they are good for 100,000 miles and get rebuilt repeatedly, but on a harley - THE SAME SHOCK is junk after 10,000 miles.
I rebuild them at my shop here in Canada (because nobody else does) as well as modify them for custom ride height. They are an excellent shock for the intended use. They are a touring shock for a heavy bagger that can have varied loads during the day. I love the adjustability of adding 1-2-3 psi as I feel I need. As to the difference internally between early and later models, well there is a minor valving change which is minimal, but there is a spring change too. If you were to dismantle one you would find that internally there is STILL a spring in there. Early models have one heavier spring and later models have a pair of lighter springs. Effective spring rate is still the same and from all the ones I have measured on my spring rate tester, they all come in around the 150# range. The AIR that you add is in addition to the coil spring. So look at the system like any automotive one where they have an air bag inside a coil spring. The addition of air allows you to tune the overall "spring rate" with very reliable and repeatable results as the compression of air is a progressive rate.
As mentioned earlier, if you want to improve performance, change the oil in your shock at a regular interval. This shock is user serviceable in that manner if you so choose. I don't use ATF, but rather hydraulic oil ISO32 in not only the bike shocks but in all the race cars here too. Lots of youTube vidoes of the "home" method. Remember, it's the fluid that breaks down, wears out and needs changing. You don't put a new motor in your bike every 5000 miles do you? No, you change the fluids...think about that.
Nice response!
Believe it or not-I like my stock shocks... a lot of people don't adjust them correctly and end up with a poor ride. There is a sweet spot with them, you have to adjust them a lot to find it. Mine (2010) ended up being 28- 30 solo and 45-50 two people.
I weigh 220.
#17
I tell you what , if you love the stock shocks, you ride on them.
I used to ride air shocks , and to me they SUCK! I did a trip , and rode for 5 10 hour days , and was sore as hell not wanting to get on the bike for a while after.
Did the same after putting on Ohlins, and I could have ridden 12-14 hour days without issue, and after the trip I got back on the bike the next day to run errands , so that is well worth the extra money I payed.
This is a true story, and I had even changed the oil in the stockers.
I used to ride air shocks , and to me they SUCK! I did a trip , and rode for 5 10 hour days , and was sore as hell not wanting to get on the bike for a while after.
Did the same after putting on Ohlins, and I could have ridden 12-14 hour days without issue, and after the trip I got back on the bike the next day to run errands , so that is well worth the extra money I payed.
This is a true story, and I had even changed the oil in the stockers.
#18
Shocks are very personal choice different for everybody but to me air shocks sucks.... It seems that the ones like the air shocks is because they never try anything else different. To me is not just the ride quality improvement but the handling of the bike too. It is way more fun and secure.
#19
Porschemann- I forgot to mention I rented a 2015 Ultra Limited Low and a 2014 Ultra Limited Standard putting on 2500 miles between them in Arizona. The 2014 standard was ok, but I did not like the 2015 Low much. I was just looking for more in ride quality out of both. For now the shocks are plugged and sitting on the shelf. I'm a hoarder so I will probably keep them until their worthless, or one of my buddy have a problem with theirs!
In your pic I see your at the race track, probably with a Porsche. I compete in the Central Division of the SCCA road racing with a single seater SRF3. If you ever make it to Road America we might bump in to each other.
In your pic I see your at the race track, probably with a Porsche. I compete in the Central Division of the SCCA road racing with a single seater SRF3. If you ever make it to Road America we might bump in to each other.
So yes, I'm very familiar with performance in the suspension world. The race cars I build have custom made suspension components (my own) and the shocks are custom built to my specs in England. As to the big baggers, hey if you think that changing a shock makes a world of difference to you then go for it! Personally I know the limitation of the chassis geometry, and the actual way the engine mount/chassis/swing arm interact. If you get rid of the rubber suspension pucks at the cleave blocks and change the swingarm to frame mount, then yes a damper change may indeed help. But these will never be a "hotrod performance bike" with this design. Suspension trying to correct a frame/drivetrain mounting problem is a losing battle in my book.
Psst air shocks, oh so cheap... hahaha. Ok, so I charge mine with nitrogen (just because I can). Oh boy, how exotic now! Adjustable Nitrogen Shocks! chuckles...
Point of these bikes is to have fun and get out there and enjoy the open road! Period! Whatever it takes for you to get to that point and maximize your enjoyment is paramount!
Hope you see you all on the road. First round is on me :-)
Last edited by porschemann; 02-13-2016 at 11:47 AM.
#20
Nice response!
Believe it or not-I like my stock shocks... a lot of people don't adjust them correctly and end up with a poor ride. There is a sweet spot with them, you have to adjust them a lot to find it. Mine (2010) ended up being 28- 30 solo and 45-50 two people.
I weigh 220.
Believe it or not-I like my stock shocks... a lot of people don't adjust them correctly and end up with a poor ride. There is a sweet spot with them, you have to adjust them a lot to find it. Mine (2010) ended up being 28- 30 solo and 45-50 two people.
I weigh 220.