PICs of worn out HD Compensator
#1
PICs of worn out HD Compensator
2011 Ultra with 81,000+ miles and stock HD compensator. I've had symptoms of a worm out compensator for awhile. The typical "clunk" when you start or stop the bike. But what was really starting to bother me was a vibration that my hands was picking up. Finally got some time (and a nice day) and started the repair today. Replacing with the SE compensator (42200064A) and a Baker Attitude Adjuster. I'm frugal, hence the reason for going with the SE Compensator (1/2 the price) instead of the Baker. I've read some people have issues with the automatic primary chain tensioner. My primary chain did not seem overly tight. You can see the wear in the nylon shoe.
Last edited by LQQK_OUT; 03-08-2016 at 02:05 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by LQQK_OUT:
#2
#3
Is that pretty much the way it came out? Most compensators in that vintage show an accumulation of red powder generated by poor lubrication, did you clean that off before taking the pictures? The wear on the spokes of the sprocket is surprising and worrying. What lube were you using in the primary?
#4
Is that pretty much the way it came out? Most compensators in that vintage show an accumulation of red powder generated by poor lubrication, did you clean that off before taking the pictures? The wear on the spokes of the sprocket is surprising and worrying. What lube were you using in the primary?
Castrol GTX 10W-40
API Service SN, SM, SL, SJ
NON energy conserving
5 Quart jug, $16.47 Walmart
Last edited by LQQK_OUT; 03-08-2016 at 03:40 PM.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#9
I did wipe down the parts since they were oily. There was some "red powder", but it seemed to be on the sliding cam. If you look closely at the picture, you can still see some of it around the spline area. The primary fluid I am using is:
Castrol GTX 10W-40
API Service SN, SM, SL, SJ
NON energy conserving
5 Quart jug, $16.47 Walmart
Castrol GTX 10W-40
API Service SN, SM, SL, SJ
NON energy conserving
5 Quart jug, $16.47 Walmart
#10
That's quite some wear there. IMHO, you're using the wrong oil. Castro 10w40 is great oil - for engines. With an engine you need an oil with a high shear resistance. Think about a rod bearing, the surface are passing each other in the opposite direction. In a gear box, you need an oil with a high compression resistance, the teeth and chain rollers are trying to squish the oil out.
My suggestion, not that you asked for it, is to install a new comp and run gear oil in the primary, not motor oil.
My suggestion, not that you asked for it, is to install a new comp and run gear oil in the primary, not motor oil.