I'm having some trouble breaking the compensating sprocket bolt loose on my 2016 RGS. It's a T-70 Torx bolt that's torqued to 175 ft-lbs and probably covered in Red Loctite...so I know it's definitely gonna be a bitch to break loose. I've followed all of the steps in the service manual so far but I'm stuck at the compensating sprocket bolt:





I have everything all set up like the picture above illustrates. I hit the bolt with some PB Blaster and I also took a torch to it briefly and nothing. I've never disassembled the inner primary before, but something just does not feel right. It feels like the engine is moving as I'm wrenching on the bolt counterclockwise. The clutch side broke loose no problem (granted it's only torqued to 70-80 ft-lbs). The sliding cam (#5 in the picture below) is moving slightly the more pressure I apply:





What the hell am I doing wrong? Or is this completely normal and I'm just being paranoid?

 

Completely normal. You are going to have to put some *** into it big time to break it loose.
Don't bother with heat. Just too much metal on the whole assembly to do any good.
For the record if it's never been broken loose before, it's a blue/grayish lock tight.

Get out a breaker bar and go for it. You won't break anything - it's tough.

Replace that bolt when you go to reassemble...

 

Thanks for the quick reply brother. Parts guy seemed pretty knowledgeable and made sure I bought the 5 new bolts to mount the primary, but never said anything about using a new compensating sprocket bolt. I appreciate the advice. Gonna go put some *** into it now...

 

Quick (likely stupid) question... Does it matter if the bike is in gear or not? I currently have it in 6th as I was installing my Fuel Moto 107 kit...

 

May I ask why you're removing the compensator on a new bike?

 

I use a long pipe on a breaker bar to get them loose.

 

I had mine in first gear and even had the rear brake on to help hold it while I used the breaker bar and cheater pipe.





BOB

 

Get a large box end wrench to fit item #9 in your diagram above and let it rest on the lift table or floor to stabilize the crankshaft. I forget what size it is. That will eliminate any movement while you put some *** into loosening it.

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement fellas. Finally got that bad boy off. I was really expecting it to "crack" loose. Instead, it was a real slow go. Ultimately, tying up the rear brake and hitting the socket with a brass hammer while torquing the living **** out of it was the key....

 

Realize that we are all a long way from your problem but I think that big torx is probably tighter than a bulls *** at fly time, so to speak. Get a long breaker bar and grunt till you soil your pants if you have to. It will come loose. Ya, your probably are a little paranoid but we have all been there a few times.