I have a 07 Road Glide and it had some battery issues in the past. It had gone dead during the winter and after that I charged it up, and it'd run, but if I let it sit even over night it dropped dead again. So, I bought a new battery, and so far so good.

I ride it to work and every night plug it into a tender just to be safe. What I noticed tonight though was that I got home about 6pm, plugged it into the tender, and I went into the garage just now (almost 9:30pm) and the orange light on the tender is still on.

Should it still be "charging" 3-1/2 hours later when it was only off the charger for a workday? Or is this perhaps indicative of something besides my battery being the problem?

I'm leaving for a camping trip tomorrow morning and wanted to post this in case someone smarter than I advises me not to ride, if this sounds like a problem that might strand me somewhere

 

I want to say that since the battery maintainer charges the battery very slowly, that it would probably still be "charging" after 3 1/2 hours.

But,the real reason why I'm posting is to suggest that you shouldn't let this keep you from going on the trip. Go to Costco before you leave and for $60, you can pick up one of those small lithium charger / jump starters for $60. Granted, there may be better ones out there online for a better price, but you can't have them in hand before you leave. Charge it up for a few hours, or even while your ride, and it's some cheap insurance in case your battery does have a problem.

Anyways, enjoy the trip!

 

Shift a little later/ run in a lower gear. Try and keep the bike over 2500 rpms and see if their is a change.

 

How old is battery? Sometimes riding on a bad or low battery will take out the voltage regulator. That happened to me once. I kept the bike on a battery tender so much and short rides to and from work etc. that I didn't notice I had a bad voltage regulator. If I was going on a trip I would be checking the voltage regulator first thing.

 

The battery in it now is brand spanking new, maybe a week old.

How do I check the voltage regulator?

 

Just went and checked again at 10pm, and now it's blinking green (greater than 80% charge)

 

I'm actually at work so I just Googled on my phone because I didn't remember off the top of my head.
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Step by Step Instructions for Testing Your Harley’s Charging System
1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
POSITIVE LEAD NEGATIVE LEAD READING
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ∞
AC output 2 Ground ∞
Replacement Components

Batteries

 

I ride my bike around for about 2 months. With what turned out to be a bad voltage regulator had a brand new battery and kept it on the battery tender so much. It was until I rode about a hundred and fifty miles straight that I figured out what was the matter with it. LoL. I actually had to push the bike about 1 block to get home almost made it home....

 

Definitely check your charging system but if you ride every day, why do you out it on a tender? Keeping a battery on a tender all the time will rob it's cranking power. Yes it will be hot for a start but if you need it to crank a little longer or leave the lights on a short period it will drain fast. Like leaving a laptop plugged in all the time. New the battery would last an hour or more. After a while your lucky to get 15 minutes. Batteries develop a memory.

It only takes about 10 or 15 minutes of riding to recharge your battery from starting it. If you ride every day, you shouldn't need a tender. You don't put one on your car every night do you? No difference. I have a tender and only use it if the bike has been sitting for a month or so and when the battery is charged back up, I unplug it.

Check your charging system and use the tender sparingly. Your battery will last longer.

 

Thanks for the info, I'll see what happens. I had always been told tenders weren't deleterious to the battery so it was good to keep it plugged in all the time.

I'm going on the trip and bringing the little jump start pack... hope I won't need it :-D