Hello All..

I'm not trying to beat a dead horse but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for as far as it pertains to my issue with the shifter shaft.

I already know that I have to replace the shifter shaft seal on my 2001 road king but it appears that the shaft itself moves back and forth a little less then 1/8 of a inch in and out of the transmission. I know its not a loose shifter shaft lever as I can see the shaft it self moving back and forth. I was able to use my finger nail to pry the washer that the snap ring holds in place away from the case when I pulled the shifter shaft lever towards me as much as it would go.

Is this normal? and if not, could anyone be kind enough to point me in the right direction?

Seeing that its riding season up here, I want to be able to have all parts on hand prior to ripping her open.

Here is a list of the following parts I have ordered so far, so let me know if I'm missing anything or If you feel I ordered crap replacement parts. Mostly I choose things based on the reviews in this forum.

Drag Specialties Transmission Shifter Rod Lever - 1811-2124 - going to replace the allen head bolt with a grade 8 hex
Genuine James Primary Gasket Kit - JGI-34901-94-K
SKF 4260 shifter seal
HB125 Hydraulic Chain Tensioner - might as well get this done while I'm in there.
786A bolts for the inner primary - Hope these are the correct ones?
and the black permatex

I have both the clymer and HD manual, and the tools for the most part. I'll have to make something to lock the primary when removing it, and I'm aware of the left handed thread.

My biggest concern is that I'm going to have everything apart, install the new seal, and the shaft is going to walk when its not suppose to, I won't be sure where to go after that, and I'll have to wait to order more parts which will probably take a good chunk out of my riding season.

Watching the below video doing the same job on a 2010 ultra classic, at 16:20 he pulls on the lever and its solid as a rock with no play. I just don't see how putting a new seal in my bike would have the same result even if I push the new lever up against the snap ring, because currently I can pry the washer on the other side of the snap ring away from the case like I said earlier.

Any advise would be appreciated, and sorry for the long explanation, just wanted to get as much info in as I have at this point.

 

My guess, and it is a guess, that there are some worn components on the other side allowing that shaft to move and if not tended to, you will continue to have problems. Look at this link and item 39 and associated parts... Click on gear shift assembly (the link didn't paste right)
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=18&c=0&d=2001 FLHR TOURING ROAD KING® (CARB) (FD) TRANSMISSION GEARS

 

There doesn't really look like there is much on the other side. I read somewhere on another forum by a poster named speedfoos that he put an extra washer on there to tighten up the slack, So that would be 2 washers on the primary side of the shifter shaft, followed by the snap ring, then the shifter lever.

Has anyone done something like this before?

 

All my Harleys have had that in and out movement. Some more pronounced than others.Replace your seal and shift away.

 

Yes the shifter shaft moves inboard and outboard. Once the the new seal, washer and circlip is installed most of it will be gone. Put the bike together and ride it.

 

Replaced my shift shaft seal mid February and I did have movement like you posted. Once everything was all buttoned up it felt much better. Put about 3,000 miles since and all is good. No leak, slop or problems while shifting.

 

I had the same movement on my shaft and once I put the grade 8 hex bolt and clamped the bagezzus out of the bolt (causing the clamp of the lever to compress more), the movement was reduced significantly. Unless there's tranny oil dripping from the shifter shaft seal and leaving a small puddle I wouldn't replace the seal.

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Also, whats your guys opinion about using the bolts with the gaskets on them ( the newer model bolts) vs the old bolts and black permatex to pair the inner primary to the engine/transmission case?

 

If you're asking if you should re-install the old bolts instead of purchasing the new style just replace them. I went with the new style and all is well. Too much time in your RnR to not replace a few bolts that were changed for a reason.

 

I just bought new locking tabs & used plenty of rtv black on both ends. No leaks so far over 1000 miles. As far as the shifter mine was on the tight side. There is a bushing that holds it that most very on different years. I think I would try the two washer approach like was mentioned above.