I have the HF bleeder pump and it has worked well on several jobs. I think the 1/4 turn suggestion is the answer.

Two projects with it was to convert an 03 Sportster and a 2000 Deuce from DOT 5 to Dot 4. Sucked out both front and rear reservoirs then bled out the lines and caliper. Filled with 4 and pulled it through immediately. Then repeated two more times to insure complete flushing.

Worked perfectly. Now I only need to stock DOT 4 and never have to check which one is needed.

DOT 5 is better at high temps but not needed unless you are racing. Touring and cruising just does not reach the temps that need DOT5.

 

only making a 1/4" turn when bleeding caliper.
pumping ***** pump up to 20 then, opening bleeder.
do not think there is a o ring on the bleeder.
it might have loctite that has worn out.
thanks again for thr comments.
i guess if nothing else, front lines have been flushed.

 

I tend to agree with you ar sucking air at the threads.if it gets too frustrating Try a set of speed bleaders, Autozone has 'em for around 10 bucks a pair.
You can also try bleading at the banjo bolt first, then go to the bleader.

 

Replace the bleeder, new threads going into the hole will help too

 

got some Speed Bleeders. did come with thread lock. will let you now how things go.



Stoney

 

well, air seems not to be the problem. put new bleeders in, new bleeders did stop the massive air flow. harbor freight ***** pump kinda does suck, pump **** tends to *** out if squeezed in to much. was able to put rod back in to pump. got what i paid for!


front breaks do work, they have to be pulled in to just about all the way for them work good. if i pump up the front breaks, they will work better. once i let go, break lever goes back to being limp, has to be pumped back up. thought this was air, seems i am wrong.


stoney

 

Keep bleeding them, the limp brake and then gets strong when you pump is a classic sign of air in the system.

 

This worked great for me. Pushed the air up and out through the master cylinder instead of trying to push air bubbles (that want to float) down.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Man-Reve...718250&vxp=mtr

 

I've used an old school oil hand pump that I bought from O Reilly's for like ten bucks to reverse bleed a clutch before. Sounds like you need to bleed the master cylinder in which the reverse method would work.

 

2 quarts, still not working right. 60 + dollars for tools etc.
stoney