Change that DOT 4 Folks
#1
Change that DOT 4 Folks
After reading about all the ABS failures recently and Harleys recommendation to change brake fluid every two years, I decided to expedite changing the fluid in my 2010 ABS Street Glide. I replaced all bleeders with Stainless Speed Bleeders and proceeded to change out the fluid. I ran 5 Reservoirs of fluid through each bleeder, two in front and one in back. The fluid was the color of Urine when you don't drink enough water! Lol... The speed bleeders made the job a snap. However, I still recommend covering things well and doing a thorough wash job around the bleeders and masters after the job is done. That DOT 4 is caustic stuff! No matter how careful you are, some dribbles around the bleeders when you first change them. A good wash afterwards is safe assurance.
#2
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mountain Top, Alabama
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For my 'King, I empty the reservoir with a cheap turkey baster, refill, and mity vac front and rear till all new fluid is through out every 2 years. Fluid still looks good to me, but I do it for peace of mind.
One of my Chevy Trucks just turned 200,000 miles. I do the same flush procedures on it every 100,000 miles (About 5 years for 100K) and that fluid looked a little bit funky (DOT 3 in the truck).
I know HD says 2 years, but that might be over kill. Whatever, I still do it.
One of my Chevy Trucks just turned 200,000 miles. I do the same flush procedures on it every 100,000 miles (About 5 years for 100K) and that fluid looked a little bit funky (DOT 3 in the truck).
I know HD says 2 years, but that might be over kill. Whatever, I still do it.
#3
For my 'King, I empty the reservoir with a cheap turkey baster, refill, and mity vac front and rear till all new fluid is through out every 2 years. Fluid still looks good to me, but I do it for peace of mind.
One of my Chevy Trucks just turned 200,000 miles. I do the same flush procedures on it every 100,000 miles (About 5 years for 100K) and that fluid looked a little bit funky (DOT 3 in the truck).
I know HD says 2 years, but that might be over kill. Whatever, I still do it.
One of my Chevy Trucks just turned 200,000 miles. I do the same flush procedures on it every 100,000 miles (About 5 years for 100K) and that fluid looked a little bit funky (DOT 3 in the truck).
I know HD says 2 years, but that might be over kill. Whatever, I still do it.
I thought about a Turkey Baster but decided that the less I have to play, remove and reinstall fluid the better with that DOT 4. The fluid is cheap enough, that I didn't mind refilling the reservoir 5 or more time per bleeder and wasting some rather than try to remove with baster with a chance of some squirting all over. I never have good luck with basters even when cooking. Lol
#4
Something I am concerned about, is the stainless speed bleeders I received didn't have any sealant or type of Loctite on them. Others I installed quite a few years ago had a sealer on them from the manufacturer? Maybe the stainless are different? They are not leaking and I removed the little rubber O-rings from the stock bleeders and put them on the new Speed Bleeders. I guess time will tell. The directions simply said to remove old bleeder and install with new Speed Bleeder. Crack the bleeder 1/4 turn for bleeding. No torque or anything?
Last edited by Rickr01; 08-22-2016 at 04:39 PM.
#5
#6
Just did a fluid change on my 2011 FLHTCU and you are right, you will get some fluid spillage so cover up and clean up when done! Mine was obviously overdue, but I think every 2 years is overkill especially if you don't do a lot of annual miles, like me. Color of old fluid was noticeably yellow compared to very, very pale yellow of new fluid. Also, Speed Bleeders are the way to go, making bleeding an easy one-man job. I used 2 bottles of DOT 4 for complete flush of front and rear brake systems. I will flush my brake systems more often to avoid any ABS issues!
#7
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#8
Every 2 years minimum, every year even better. Bikes sit a lot which helps get more moisture in them which is the killer. I have had to rebuild my front master cylinder twice over the last several years due to crap build up in the bore preventing the lever from fully returning which leaves the brake light on and no cruise. Every year from now on and with the speed bleeders its much easier.
#9
Hey Bob,
Also need to make sure to follow new Master Reservoir torque specs. 6 inch pounds. Mine would always leak a little around the seal until I broke down and bought a precision Torque screwdriver. Not even a weep since. 6 inch pounds is more than one may think and very hard to determine by feel.
#10
Hey Bob,
Also need to make sure to follow new Master Reservoir torque specs. 6 inch pounds. Mine would always leak a little around the seal until I broke down and bought a precision Torque screwdriver. Not even a weep since. 6 inch pounds is more than one may think and very hard to determine by feel.
Also need to make sure to follow new Master Reservoir torque specs. 6 inch pounds. Mine would always leak a little around the seal until I broke down and bought a precision Torque screwdriver. Not even a weep since. 6 inch pounds is more than one may think and very hard to determine by feel.