Anyone know of a LED replacement kit for the rear lights where all of them light up during normal riding and there is more light for braking?

 

@svarnster,, My shake in the bike is when I am at a standstillwith the at idle. This is reduced if I give it just a little throttle. Notquite sure yet if it is the sound system or the motor,, LOL. I have had thisbike up to around 80 MPH in traffic to pass for one reason or another with zeroproblems. It is a smooth ride from what I can tell.





Hello everyone and thank you for all of your input as it is veryvaluable as I work on this bike to get it in top shape. It is very good to havea friend like Rocket who will reach out to others to help others.





I really would like to makethe roar not so loud as to not wake the neighbors in the morning and not to beasked not to park in the parking garage. Will I have to have the carbs jettedif I change from straight pipes back to something not so loud.





Thanks in advance, to everyone.

 

Mine shakes some at idle, but not awful or bothersome as soon as I pull off it smoothes right out which is what the rubber mounted motors are supposed to do. I have read that if the shake is real bad check for bad front motor mount . Mine is just starting to split, I initially thought that could be part of my wifes wiggle complaint ,but have become more informed and believe it is the swing arm pivot point. I am going to lift it tomorrow and try to move tire back and forth. I went to you tube and was impressed by the glide pro video with the glass of water showing before and after the glide pro install. I love the bike.

 

depending on which pipes you have, it may be possible to add or change the baffles to quiet down the bike, carb adjustment would vary depending on what changes you make.

 

You will probably won't have to change much in jetting if you install a baffle in the exhaust. The motors do shake at idle that is the rubber mount motor for you.
The Cam chain tensioners need checked for sure unless they have been, because they can take out an engine if you don't watch it, and I know this from experience. There are ways it can be upgraded to where you don't have to worry much about it again, and I believe the SE cam plate IS NOT one of them. Upgrading will allow the 88" motor run for a very long time.

 

I bought my 2000 Ultra new in October '99.

I put 77,000 miles on it before selling it and I did some upgrades that I wanted, but not necessarily needed.

Since your friends bike has a carb, that eliminates one of the last issues that I had with my bike which was the EFI system.

I had to have the front motor mount replaced at 30,000 miles or so and the stator replaced at 39,000 miles.

The MoCo did extend the warranty to 50,000 miles for the cam bearings but I had the "Big Bore "95" Kit installed at 38,000 and all of that, along with the cam chain adjusters so that was a non-issue.
The "95" inch kit makes a huge difference in the way the bike pulls and I would highly recommend that upgrade (along with the S/E Hyrdaulic cam chain adjuster kit)..
It makes the bike fell a couple of hundred pounds lighter!

The only other issue that I had with the bike was the handlebar "kill switch".
This happened at 75,000+ miles and the bike would just (sometimes) quit running and occasionally be hard to start.

Other than the above minor issues, the bike served me well.

 

In the rear he can add a run/turn/brake module easy install under seat ,1999. -2017 same tail light any led square back or laydown needs plate light on top he can also replace headlight and passing lamps with trucklites or daymakers that will make it much brighter

 

Primary issues?????
True track?????
I suspect wastes of time money.

I would want to know the outer cam bearings were updated. Harley changed from ball to roller on the rear mid year 2000, or opposite.

I would want to inspect inner and outer primary tensioner pads. Better yet go to gears, but I would do it with a 95" upgrade if he has the money.

Personally I think upgrades to bigger tires is another waste of time and money. I have 01 and 07. Downside of my 07 is no emergency belt kits sod by Harley, last I checked. Plus no advantage.


Anything besides tensioners and cam bearing, is just something to do.

My 01 has had lots of leaks. The seals used back then were single lip. Most went to double around 2005.

 

My 01 has 73k, stock stator. I changed motor mount this year. Looked fine after I got it out. Was a maintence replacement.

I cover mine in oil and then spray down with brake cleaner, despite what some have said is bad thing to do.

 

When someone buys a used bike and has dreams to make changes i usually suggest they wait.
Review mechanical stuff first.
Is bike safe to ride? A fairing mount would be important.
Are the tires OK?
Are the rims OK?
Are the brakes OK?
Are critical fasteners OK?
Are all tensioners OK?
How is the charging system and battery age?
The rear axle crack mentioned earlier is related to lowering blocks for rear shocks in my opinion.
Every time i have read about it, bike had lowering blocks at some time in its life.
The crack happens right at the oval for axle adjustment.
Lowering blocks change the leverage at that one point.
Combining that with an over tightened axle would be a root cause of the crack.
Basically review every detail first for safety.
The reasons are simple... safety first.
People get bummed (sad) really quick when they go out and spend $800-$1,500 for some wheel upgrades and then add other stuff on a new used bike.
Then they are into the bike for $2,000 when something breaks at a cost of $200-$350.
Maybe a flat or something else that is common.
They become angry because they have not had a chance to ride the bike and decide it is not the bike for them and want to trade-in.
When they get hit with the loss of value after spending more money they get bummed even more..
Unless the person has deep pockets or are very experienced with Harleys then it might be best to go slow.
Let them ride it and enjoy it so they can discover what there needs and wants might be.
Safety first.