2000 Ultra Classic
#21
09-23-2016, 07:48 PM
I bought mine with lowering blocks. 73k now. Axle is fine. I have not taken apart the tensioner to know.
#22
09-23-2016, 09:10 PM
Good to hear that a 2000 has the beefier axle.
Thank you for clarification.
#24
09-24-2016, 11:25 AM
I am not sure the size of my axle, or how they have changed over the years. I just now tensioner on my 07 is different. I am guessing it might have happened when they went to wide tire around 02 or 03.
I do know someone who had a cracked axle on mid 90s. $1500 cause they don't make axles that match his wheel, according to him.
I do know someone who had a cracked axle on mid 90s. $1500 cause they don't make axles that match his wheel, according to him.
#25
09-24-2016, 10:04 PM
Cruiser
I mentioned the swingarm cracking, somehow that changed to axles cracking. The swingarms on the 2001 and earlier touring twin cams are prone to cracking where the axle goes through. 2002 and later got a redesigned swingarm and axle adjuster system that is much stronger. The axle also increased from 3/4" to 1" at that time.
#26
09-27-2016, 08:06 PM
Intermediate
When someone buys a used bike and has dreams to make changes i usually suggest they wait.
Review mechanical stuff first.
Is bike safe to ride? A fairing mount would be important.
Are the tires OK?
Are the rims OK?
Are the brakes OK?
Are critical fasteners OK?
Are all tensioners OK?
How is the charging system and battery age?
The rear axle crack mentioned earlier is related to lowering blocks for rear shocks in my opinion.
Every time i have read about it, bike had lowering blocks at some time in its life.
The crack happens right at the oval for axle adjustment.
Lowering blocks change the leverage at that one point.
Combining that with an over tightened axle would be a root cause of the crack.
Basically review every detail first for safety.
The reasons are simple... safety first.
People get bummed (sad) really quick when they go out and spend $800-$1,500 for some wheel upgrades and then add other stuff on a new used bike.
Then they are into the bike for $2,000 when something breaks at a cost of $200-$350.
Maybe a flat or something else that is common.
They become angry because they have not had a chance to ride the bike and decide it is not the bike for them and want to trade-in.
When they get hit with the loss of value after spending more money they get bummed even more..
Unless the person has deep pockets or are very experienced with Harleys then it might be best to go slow.
Let them ride it and enjoy it so they can discover what there needs and wants might be.
Safety first.
Review mechanical stuff first.
Is bike safe to ride? A fairing mount would be important.
Are the tires OK?
Are the rims OK?
Are the brakes OK?
Are critical fasteners OK?
Are all tensioners OK?
How is the charging system and battery age?
The rear axle crack mentioned earlier is related to lowering blocks for rear shocks in my opinion.
Every time i have read about it, bike had lowering blocks at some time in its life.
The crack happens right at the oval for axle adjustment.
Lowering blocks change the leverage at that one point.
Combining that with an over tightened axle would be a root cause of the crack.
Basically review every detail first for safety.
The reasons are simple... safety first.
People get bummed (sad) really quick when they go out and spend $800-$1,500 for some wheel upgrades and then add other stuff on a new used bike.
Then they are into the bike for $2,000 when something breaks at a cost of $200-$350.
Maybe a flat or something else that is common.
They become angry because they have not had a chance to ride the bike and decide it is not the bike for them and want to trade-in.
When they get hit with the loss of value after spending more money they get bummed even more..
Unless the person has deep pockets or are very experienced with Harleys then it might be best to go slow.
Let them ride it and enjoy it so they can discover what there needs and wants might be.
Safety first.
Good advise, yes at first I wanted to make some changes, however after a few days the high went away and my brain kicked in.
Rear tire was replaced the day I purchased it on the way home.
Front tire is new, don't know when it was replaced but it has many miles left on it. Looks bran new.
Fixed the front left fairing bracket with a 3/4" shelf bracket from home depot and stopped the shaking.
Replaced the front breaks the first week (last Thursday)
Replaced the Choke cable, it was broken when I bought the bike.
checked all of the fluids, lights,
Replaced the plugs and took it for a ride.
About 120 or so miles with Rocket, last Saturday and have another planned for this weekend.
I want to enjoy the bike, so to for me I would like to purchase a new seat, and remove the tour pack.
I have looked on the forums for seats and reviews and just have not found any good information and a seat that will move me back a couple of inches and still be good for long rides.
I would also like to change the front head light as I would prefer one a lot brighter. Nothing wrong with it, it is just the old ford style 7" light.
#27
09-27-2016, 08:11 PM
Intermediate
Changed the pipes today, Rocket gave me his originals and I put them on. Much quieter now. I will ride a few times to see if these reduce any power or cause it to run rich. Trying to watch some YouTube on carb adjustments.
I am pretty good with a wrench so now its just finding the right information.
#28
09-27-2016, 09:15 PM
Good to hear you reviewed safety items and are enjoying the bike.
Consider waiting on the headlight change.
If the headlight is changed then it will cause a color imbalance with the spot driving lights.
Meaning that a modern headlight will appear more white and then the spots will look yellow.
Some people care, others do not...I think it looks terrible.
You may wish to consider doing the simple wire jumper modification that allows the use of high beam with the spots ON at the same time.
Consider waiting on the headlight change.
If the headlight is changed then it will cause a color imbalance with the spot driving lights.
Meaning that a modern headlight will appear more white and then the spots will look yellow.
Some people care, others do not...I think it looks terrible.
You may wish to consider doing the simple wire jumper modification that allows the use of high beam with the spots ON at the same time.
#29
09-28-2016, 07:04 AM
#30
09-28-2016, 08:53 PM
Intermediate
Can anyone help me with a seat? I have a nice seat for when I want to 2 up and have the tour pack on. However the 2up section is just too large when the tour pack is off. From what I have seen in the forum the seats that I think I would be interested in I see that someone states they are only good for 80 miles or so. I am 6'2" and 250lbs I would like to move down and back (back at least 2") with a thin or no 2 up pad. I would prefer a 2 up pad for quick runs for breakfast or dinner. I hate to post a new thread as I know that I will hear this has already been beat to death, but I can't find one that is for the 2000 EGC. I would like to stay around 300 if possible. I did look at the ?Tallboy? and read that it is only good for short runs. I plan on sitting in that seat for 8 plus hours every week this fall.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kenoverbey
General Harley Davidson Chat
0
09-16-2013 09:41 AM