So I replaced my stock Road Glide Custom seat (2012) last night. It was tearing at the sides, and simply put, has seen better days.

The seat that I purchased is a really neat, sleek looking Saddlemen. Very happy with the seat. HOWEVER....the new Saddlemen isn't as wide as the stock seat was/is, and left exposed is some serious wear spots in my tank clear coat at the back of the fuel tank. You all know exactly what I am referring to if you've owned your bike using the stock seat for more than 90 days!

Any way to restore the luster without taking the tank off and having it sanded and clear coated again? If so, what are the necessary steps, tools, and creams/waxes? I can turn wrenches pretty darn well, but paint/body work is completely outside of my wheelhouse.

I have an orbital buffer (why, I dunno!), and I have the cream/wax as seen in the pic. What else do I need, how do you paint/body experts recommend I approach the problem, if at all?

 

if it isn't into the color, and if you are careful with it, you can sand and buff the damage. but modern clear coats aren't very thick, so you don't have a lot to work with. if your orbital buffer has a 'fast' setting it could work.

updated:
If it is very uneven, lightly wet sand the worn areas with 1200 grit to get a uniform flat look, then maybe very lightly with 1500 or 2000, washing off the dust in-between. You may not need to sand, see if the polishing compound on your buffer will shine it up. But you may need to be a little more agressive. Once you are happy with the shine, use the wax to protect and preserve the tank.


if you are not comfortable doing this yourself, bring the tank to a body shop, and see if they will do the sanding/buffing for you w/o re-spraying the clear.

 

If its not into the color it can be repaired most of the time. Use the least aggressive method first, DO NOT HIT IT WITH SANDPAPER IF YOU DO NOT HAVE TO. If you don't have experience sanding do not do it. Once you go thru the clear its done.
1. wash
2. Iron X
3. clay
4. Compound if needed
5. polish
6. LSP
** if by orbital you mean a rotary you are asking for problems, if you have never used one. DA can do the job with the right pad product combo

 

What does the Iron X do?

 

I think what I have is rotary. It's for polishing and buffing, that I know. Has to be...bought it at O'Reilly's!

As asked above, what does Iron X do, and what is LSP?

I am going to follow your steps above....I agree that the sanding part is something that I don't want to do. If it needs to be done, I just as soon pay a professional to do that prior to applying a few fresh coats of clear. Would rather try to do this myself with a less aggressive approach. Can always go big if it doesn't work.

Not sure that I have a clear answer on the rotary buffer. Use it, or avoid it? I am being told by a friend to avoid it as burn can happen before a non-professional like me knows that its happened.

 

Iron X is a product that removes iron fallout that gets embedded in the paint. It dissolves it then you wash again to remove everything. When you clay, or clay alternative, you only get what is above the paint, iron gets into the paint. Youtube it, pretty crazy when its done on a white car.

Rotary buffers should only be used if you have experience with them. When I learned I bought a fender from a junk yard and went to town. I never use one manly because of the potential risk involved. I don't know how much it would cost for a paint job on a BMW but I know I can't afford it. They do have their place though. I have a couple machines and use the Flex the most.

As a side not, be very careful by hand also. When polish by hand, most of the force is concentrated in a very small area and this has the potential for some damage.

If you use the least aggressive method first and build up from there you will be fine. Every car I work on I tape of a 2ft by 2ft area and do a test spot (won't be that big on a bike). This lets you know what you have to do.

 

Thanks, eaglefan. A hand job it is (pretty proficient at those since the age of 12), and all steps noted. I'll chime in tomorrow and let you know how I did.

BTW - I watched a couple of vids on youtuve, and the iron x looks like a good product. Not sure that it's needed, but it certainly won't hurt, so I am going to employ it along with the rest of the steps given.

Thanks, again.

 

My suggestion is to try one of Menguilar's scratch removers (red bottle) before you do any buffing or use any compund. I've had very good results getting small areas back with it and you don't run the risk of doing too much at a time. Harley paint is very touchy. Easy to try and may do the job for you.

 

One last ?...

Is the Flex buffer/polisher safe to use in the hands of a careful but complete rookie, or would you recommend not using that as well? It looks to be reasonably priced, and might be something I'd use again later (?).

 

When you speak of a rotary buffer are you including things like this?







and this?